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Salt Lake City, the capital of Utah, boasts a spectacular setting. Cradled in a natural basin below the Wasatch Mountains and extending to the southern shore of the Great Salt Lake, its allure is evident.

This must certainly have been true in 1847 when Mormon Pioneer Brigham Young arrived here and established the famous home of The Church Of The Latter Day Saints. While Salt Lake City is intrinsically linked to the temple erected at the heart of Temple Square, the city has followed its own trajectory since the arrivals of the Mormons over 160 years ago.

These days the opportunity for exceptional hiking in summer and snow sports in winter lures countless visitors to a flourishing city that confounds the expectations of many with an excitingly diverse array of restaurants, nightlife, art and culture

Getting Around

Airport

Salt Lake City International Airport (SLC)
Tel: (801) 575 2400.
Website: www.slcairport.com  

Salt Lake City International Airport is located just 6km (4 miles) west of the city centre. The airport served 22 million passengers in 2007.

ApproximateflighttimestoSaltLakeCity: From London is 11 hours; from New York is 4 hours 30 minutes; from Los Angeles is 2 hours; from Toronto is 5 hours and from Sydney is 16 hours 30 minutes.

Airportfacilities: These include foreign exchange, banks and ATMs, tourist information counter, restaurants and snack bars, gift shops, coin-operated lockers, facilities for infant and small child care. Car hire companies Alamo, Avis, Budget, Dollar, Hertz and National are located on the lowest level of the parking terrace (see GettingAround).

Businessfacilities: The WayportLaptopLane/Regus Business Centre (tel: (801) 519 5060; website: www.regus.com) is located in terminal two. Services and facilities include telephones, desktop PCs, high-speed Internet access, printing, copying and faxing and package shipping. In addition to the business facilities available at Laptop Lane, there is language translation assistance at the airport information desks and faxes can be sent at Zions Bank in terminal two. There are stamp machines and mailboxes in each terminal.

Transporttothecity: Downtown Salt Lake is only a 15- or 20-minute drive from the airport. A one-way taxi fare is approximately US$15. Many hotels offer complimentary airport shuttle service. Buses, limousines and shuttle companies provide transportation into the city as well as throughout the valley and to area ski resorts. For more information, call the Ground Transportation Desk on (801) 575 2477.

The ExpressShuttle (tel: 1 800 397 0773; website: www.expressshuttle.com) is a convenient door-to-door airport shuttle, which operates on request and meets all flights. Tickets should be reserved at least 24 hours in advance, if possible (booking is open 24 hours daily). There are counters in the baggage claim area at both terminals, marked Ground Transportation Desk.

One of several companies providing shuttle service to ski resorts in the area, as well as to the Salt Lake Valley is AllResortExpress (tel: (435) 649 3999 or 1 800 457 9457; website: www.allresort.com), which also operates a request service, meeting all flights.

Trains

Salt Lake City benefits from good rail services.

Rail Services

Amtrak (tel: 1 800 872 7245; www.amtrak.com) offers rail services to Salt Lake City, arriving at Salt Lake City Intermodal Hub (also known as Central Station).

Rail Operators

Amtrak provide one service daily in each direction on the California Zephyr Line. This 3,924km (2,438 miles) long route running from Chicago, Illinois in the east to Emeryville, California in the west, while passing through the Sierra Nevada and Rocky Mountains, is one of the most scenic in the US.

The Utah Transit Authority Front-Runner (tel: 1 801 743 3882; www.rideuta.com) commuter rail line also runs from Salt Lake City on a 61km (38 miles) route to Pleasantville, north of Ogden, every half-hour on weekdays and every hour on Saturdays. There is also a connecting service to the airport.

Connections

From Reno - 13 hours; Denver - 15 hours; Chicago - 35 hours 20 minutes.

By Road

Driving in Salt Lake City is on the right. The legal driving age in Utah is 16 years. Speed limits are generally 55-65mph (88-104kph) on highways and 30mph (48kph) in towns but can vary and the signs should be checked. International Driving Permits are not generally necessary. A full driving licence from another country is adequate, and basic insurance is mandatory. The American Automobile Association (tel: 1 800 541 9902; www.aaa.com) provides further information.

Emergency breakdown services

AAA tel. 1 800 222 4357 or AAA HELP.

Routes to the city

Not without good reason is Salt Lake City known as ‘the crossroads of the west’, lying as it does at the intersection between two of America’s major highways. These are: Interstate 15 (I-15), which runs south through Las Vegas to the outskirts of Los Angeles and north through Idaho and Montana to the Canadian border, and Interstate 80 (I-80), which runs east-west between San Francisco and New York.

Locally the I-80 connects downtown Salt Lake City with the airport, and the I-215 takes a loop through the suburbs around the western flank of the city.

Inside the city, traffic flows freely thanks to a simple grid layout. Road names are numbered with a north, south, east, or west designation, with the grid originating at the southeast corner of Temple Square.

Driving times to the city
From Las Vegas - 6 hours; Denver - 7 hours 30 minutes; San Francisco - 10 hours 30 minutes; Los Angeles - 10 hours; San Diego - 11 hours; Ogden - 40 minutes; Provo - 50 minutes.

Coach services

The Utah Transit Authority (UTA) operates an extensive bus system in and around Salt Lake City extending out to the entire Wasatch Front. Bus routes are also connected to the stations along the TRAX light rail system, and during the winter, there is also a service from the city to four local ski resorts in the Wasatch Mountains.

Greyhound Buses (www.greyhound.com) can also be taken from the city’s Intermodal Transport Hub. There are several buses per day running east to Denver, west to San Francisco, north to Portland and Seattle, Washington, and south to Las Vegas and Los Angeles.

Local Transport

Public Transport

A good bus network and Salt Lake City's light rail service, TRAX, has helped to improve links between the city and the suburbs. There are also services to nearby cities such as Ogden and Provo, and during the winter a special ski bus operates to Little Cottonwood Canyon, Alta, Brighton and Sundance ski resorts.

Buses and the TRAX rail system operate a single, standard fare across the main valley area, while a large portion of central downtown Salt Lake City (including Temple Square) is a fare-free zone. Tickets purchased here are valid for two hours from the time of purchase and can be used on both buses and light rail. All Day Passes covering both these systems are also available.

Taxis

Several taxi companies in Salt Lake City offer a 24 hour service, including City Cab (tel: (801) 363 5550), Yellow Cab Company (tel: (801) 521 2100) and Ute Cab Co (tel: (801) 359 7788). Cabs can be hailed in the street and there are taxi stands around the city.

Driving in the City

With wide streets laid out in the standard American grid system, navigating around Salt Lake City poses few problems. A good freeway system provides quick access to the canyons and suburban areas and there are many scenic routes into the surrounding mountains. Parking is plentiful and there are free Park & Ride lots located near all the light rail stations.

Car Hire

All main service providers are here, including Avis (tel: (801) 575 2847; www.avis.com), and Hertz (tel: (801) 575 2683; www.hertz.com). The minimum age to hire a car is 25 years. A full driving licence from a person's home country is usually sufficient. Drivers are always advised to enquire exactly what will be covered in the accompanying insurance and whether the rate includes unlimited mileage.

Bicycle Hire

Cycling is popular in Salt Lake City and the surrounding region, with mountain biking trails available. Utah Ski and Golf (tel: (801) 355 9088; www.utahskigolf.com) offers bicycle hire from different locations in the city.

General Information

Location

Utah, western United States of America.

Time zone

GMT - 7 (GMT - 6 from second Sunday in March to first Sunday in November).

Electricity

110 volts AC; 50Hz; round two-pin plugs are standard.

Average January temperatures

3ºC (37ºF).

Average July temperatures

33ºC (92ºF).

Annual rainfall

401mm (15.8 inches).

Things to do

Sightseeing Overview

Salt Lake City's highlights include historical and religious sights in the city centre and the scenic attractions, pioneer relics and recreational activities on offer in the Salt Lake Valley, canyons and nearby mountains.

The compact downtown area is the best place for a visitor to start exploring. Within a small radius from Temple Square, where the famous Mormon Tabernacle and the six-spire granite Temple are located, there are several historical sites dating from the pioneer era, along with shopping and cultural venues.

Among the city's museums and galleries are the Salt Lake Art Center, 20 South West Temple, Downtown and the Utah State Historical Society in the Historic Rio Grande Depot.

Beyond Downtown, other Central Salt Lake highlights include the Marmalade District of historic homes, the Utah State Capitol, This is The Place Heritage Park and Old Deseret Village, Trolley Square and several museums.

The Great Salt Lake after which the city was named, lies just 27km (17 miles) west and is a ‘must-see' sight for all first-time visitors.

Tourist Information

Salt Lake Convention & Visitors Bureau
90 South West Temple
Tel: (801) 534 4900 or 1 800 541 4955.
Website: www.visitsaltlake.com  
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1800, Sat and Sun 0900-1700.
Other visitor information centres are located at the Salt Lake City airport (open daily 0900-2100) and Council Hall, 300 North State Street (open Mon-Fri 0800-1700, Sat-Sun1000-1700).

Passes

The Connect Pass provides free entry to any of 12 attractions and is valid for one, two, three five or seven days. The Ski Salt Lake Super Pass, sold through hotels, provides two to six days of skiing to any of Salt Lake's four closest resorts (Alta, Brighton, Snowbird and Solitude) including roundtrip transport from Salt Lake City. The Silver Pass gives skiers four-to-seven-day passes to ski The Canyons, Park City and Deer Valley resorts. QuickSTART offers a free lift ticket with presentation of a same-day airline boarding pass on any of the above three Park City ski resorts.

Attractions

Wheeler Historic Farm
This historic dairy farm is still run with manual labour and animals, just as it was in the 1890s. Tours of the farmhouse take place every half an hour and demonstrations of period farming techniques take place in summer. Visitors can help with the duties, such as gathering eggs or milking the cows. Depending on the season, there are also wagon or sleigh rides and country dances.
6351 South 900 East
Tel: (801) 264 2241.
Website: www.wheelerfarm.com  
Free admission; small charge for activities and special events.

Marmalade Hill Historic District
A triangle of historic homes, built by settlers in the late 19th century, lies just west of the State Capitol. The district and many of its streets are named for the fruit-bearing trees planted by the early residents. There are no specific houses open to the public but the area makes for a pleasant stroll.
Bounded by 300 North Street (south), 500 North Street (north), Center Street (west) and Quince Street (east)
Tel: (801) 533 0858 (Utah Heritage Foundation, which can provide information).
Website: www.utah.com/culture/marmalade_district.htm  

Thanksgiving Point Institute
Located 44 km (28 miles) south of the city, the 283-hectare (700-acre) Thanksgiving Point features the largest botanical garden in North America, surrounded by an award-winning golf course. There is also a discovery garden and farm country animal park for children. Adjacent to the Institute is the North American Museum of Ancient Life, the world's largest dinosaur museum, with hundreds of fossils of prehistoric creatures, ranging from prehistoric insects to flying reptiles. The Grand Exhibit Hall contains 60 dinosaur skeleton displays, including a 34-metre (110-foot) long Supersaurus. The six-storey Mammoth Screen Theater shows spectacular natural history and science films.
2929-3003 North Thanksgiving Way, Lehi
Tel: (801) 768 2300 or 1 888 672 6040.
Website: www.thanksgivingpoint.com  
Free admission; charge for the museum, theatre, gardens and farm.

North American Museum of Ancient Life
Tel: (801) 766 5000 (museum).

Fox Family Farm
Tel: (801) 768 4951 (booking).

Restaurants

Expensive

The Aerie Restaurant
A short drive from SLC, the resort of Snowbird is home to one of the state's most acclaimed restaurants, the aptly named Aerie, perched on the 10th floor of The Cliff Lodge. Fine food and spectacular mountain views (seen through massive windows) draw the punters in both summer and winter, and it is easy to see why this restaurant has been the recipient of so many awards, including Utah's 'Most Romantic'. Well worth splashing out for a special occasion.

The Cliff Lodge, Level 10
Tel: (801) 933 2160.
Website: www.snowbird.com  

Fleming's Prime Steakhouse and Wine Bar
A must for steak lovers, this nationally acclaimed restaurant downtown features USDA prime beef, aged to perfection and hand-cut daily. Choose your cut and your sauce, and the chef will cook it to your exact requirements. Perfect. And as if that wasn't good enough, the wine list here features 100 wines by the glass. Dinner only.

20 South 400 West
Tel: (801) 355 3704.
Website: www.flemingssteakhouse.com  

Ghidotti's
Step into old world elegance of a Mediterranean villa. Tucked into Park City's new Redstone shopping district, Ghidotti's is Bill White's latest success story in fine dining. Décor comprises original Italian tapestries and wrought iron, chandeliers from Istanbul, and travertine marble tile from Mexico. The menu changes seasonally, and seafood is flown in fresh daily. Giant sea scallops melt in the mouth, while grilled salmon is flaky and flavoursome. Share the perfect gelato dessert, a sampler of five flavours served on freshly made waffle cones.

6030 North Market, Suite 100, Redstone Village, Park City
Tel: (435) 658 0669.
Website: www.ghidottis.com

La Caille
A winding brick road leads to this romantic French chateau built in 1995 to kindle the imagination and seduce diners with its 18th-century-esque charm. Experience French fine dining in magical ambiance enhanced with stone staircases, European statuary, plants and topiary, lamplight and cosy firesides. The rack of New Zealand lamb with Grand Marnier glaze and mint jelly is unforgettable. No meal is complete without the Irish coffee prepared tableside with flames and sparks. Only 30 minutes from downtown Salt Lake, but take a good map.

9565 Wasatch Boulevard, Little Cottonwood Canyon
Tel: (801) 942 1751.
Website: www.lacaille.com

Moderate

The Bayou
Over 200 beers are available at The Bayou, referred to by locals as 'Beervanna'. Need we say more? The menu is classic pub fare with Cajun flair, and there is live jazz music several nights a week.

645 South State Street
Tel: (801) 961 8400.
Website: www.xmission.com/~bayou/home.php  

Benihana
Cool Japanese restaurant offering the usual teppanyaki, sushi, sashimi and tempura favourites. Open for lunch and dinner.

165 South West Temple Building 1
Tel: (801) 322 2421.

Cucina Toscana
This is one of the city's best Italian restaurants (if indeed not the best one) located in downtown SLC, where award-winning chef Valter Nassi serves authentic Tuscan cuisine to regulars and tourists alike. The food is simple but always fresh and tasty, the prices more than reasonable for the quality you get, and the service excellent.

307 West Pierpont Avenue
Tel: (801) 328 3463.
Website: www.cucina-toscana.com

Market Street Grill
Established 25 years, the Market Street Grill is, many say, the best seafood restaurant in town. The fish is flown in especially from around the globe every day, and patrons here work their way through over 600 pounds of fresh seafood daily... The restaurant features special festivals for foods in season throughout the year, another delicious reason to visit. Daily specials, and pasta, steaks and ribs are also available. Good wine list.

48 West Market Street
Tel: (801) 322 4668.
Website: www.gastronomyinc.com/msg/index.html  

Martine
Spanish-style tapas restaurant, one block from Temple Square and popular with the pre-theatre dinner crowd. Seasonal menu changes every two weeks. Servings generous and affordable. Sample a tantalising array of tapas or indulge in a chocolate decadence dessert in this mellow and intimate dining spot.

22 East 100 South 
Tel: (801) 363 9328.
Website: www.dininginutah.com/martine.htm

The Mayan
For a dining experience with a difference, head for The Mayan in Jordan Commons. This Mexican restaurant is set in a 3,700 sq m (40,000 sq ft) jungle décor complete with talking animals, waterfalls and cliff divers, making it a real winner with kids of all ages. And the food is rather good too. Children's menus are available. Open seven days a week for lunch and dinner.

9400 South State Street, Sandy
Tel: (801) 304 4677.
Website: www.themayan.com  

The Tree Room
Award-winning restaurant serving seasonal mountain cuisine in romantic setting: candlelight, white linen tablecloth, log walls and great forest views. Robert Redford's private Native American art collection graces the walls. Cosy yet elegant.

Sundance Resort, Sundance
Tel: (801) 223 4200.
Website: www.sundanceresort.com/dine/tree_room.html

Cheap

P F Chang's China Bistro
This branch of the Chinese chain restaurant is ever popular with young people who like the modern interior and the eclectic menu on offer here. Choose from Cantonese or Szechwan or Hunan, and don't forget to check out the good value specials.

174 W Broadway
Tel: (801) 539 0500.

Red Rock Brewing Company
This is a popular, no frills brewpub, with a good selection of micro-brewed beers and a menu featuring a selection of sandwiches, salads, soups, seafood, meats and pizzas at reasonable prices.

254 South 200 West
Tel: (801) 521 7446.
Website: www.redrockbrewing.com  

Ruth's Diner
Established in 1930, and with several awards under its belt, Ruth's Diner (10 minutes from downtown) is a cheap and cheerful kind of place with great mountain views, offering above average fare in great surroundings. There is a big outdoor patio for sunny days, and live music in summer. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

2100 Emigration Canyon
Tel: (801) 582 5807.
Website: www.ruthsdiner.com  

Sawadee Thai Restaurant
This two-year-old restaurant in a charming restored old house is authentic Thai, from the imported original art and carved décor to the owners, Wilati and his wife, Chef Pom. Savour the distinct flavours of fresh herbs, with the tang of coconut and lemongrass. Dishes are delicious, but forget the Thai coffee! Sawadee was voted Best New Ethnic Restaurant for 2007 by Salt Lake City Weekly.
754 East South Temple Street
Tel: (801) 328 8424.
Website: www.sawadee1.com

Night Life

Despite the generally conservative atmosphere of Salt Lake City, there are plenty of night spots for music and entertainment, from country and western line dancing to jazz, blues and rock 'n' roll. These are not focused on any particular district and are generally spread throughout the city. Utah does have unique liquor laws, however, but these have been relaxed somewhat - and the process of getting into a private club has been simplified.

Taverns and lounges only sell beer. Mixed drinks are sold at private clubs (the equivalent of bars) throughout the day. Alcohol may be ordered with a meal in most restaurants after midday, although customers have to ask for a liquor menu. The minimum drinking age is 21 years.

CitySearchUtah (website: www.utah.citysearch.com) provides an online guide to events, while CityWeekly (website: www.slweekly.com) and TheEvent are free weekly papers with extensive reviews and listings.

Bars: Sports bars are popular in Salt Lake City. Some popular venues for watching a big match on a big screen are the Port O'Call, 78 West 400 South, and SkyBox Sports Grille & Arena, The Gateway, 4 South Rio Grande Street. Many bars now feature micro-brewed beers. These include the Red Rock Brewing Company, South 200 West Street, and Lazy Moon Pub, 32 Exchange Place. Another great place for beer aficionados is The Bayou, 645 South State Street, which has more than 150 varieties of the golden nectar (see Restaurants). The Red Door, 57 West 200 South, serves designer martinis in a cosmopolitan setting, while The Wine Bar at Baci, 140 West Pierpont Avenue, is arguably the best wine bar in town.

Clubs:Club Axis, 108 South 500 West, has two dancefloors and features a technobeam light show. Zipperz, 155 West 200 South, has four levels with top DJs, sound and lighting. Club Sound, 579 West 200 South, is a private club that showcases the best in both local and national talent, while Club Vortex, 404 South West Temple, is the best dance club in town.

LiveMusic: The Dead Goat Saloon, 119 South West Temple (website: www.deadgoat.com), is a perennial favourite with live music most nights. The Green Street Social Club, Trolley Square, has food, live entertainment and dancing. Port O'Call has live bands (website: www.portocall.com), as does The Bayou (see Bars for both), which has jazz music on most nights.

Shopping

Shopping opportunities here are plentiful, in fact, the very first department store in the US opened for business right here in 1868. Today Salt Lake City has literally hundreds of retail options from specialist antique, book and handicraft stores to shopping villages and factory outlet malls.

Markets

The Downtown Farmers' Market (mornings, June-October), Historic Pioneer Park, 300 South 300 West, features fresh produce from over 70 Utah farmers.

Shopping centres

Opposite Temple Square is Crossroads Plaza, with an arcade, theatres and restaurants, as well as shops and department stores. In the adjacent block is the ZCMI Center, which stands for Zion Cooperative Mercantile Institution, originally founded by Brigham Young, making it possibly the country's oldest department store.

The Gateway, an open-air, upmarket shopping arcade, situated west of Temple Square, is Salt Lake City's smartest venue (and Utah's largest open air shopping district). One of the city's favourite shopping centres is Trolley Square, 600 South 700 East, a few blocks from Downtown. Fashion Place, 6191 South State Street, is Salt Lake City's more upmarket mall.

Key areas

Mormon Handicraft, West South Temple, sells beautiful quilts and other speciality items unique to the state. Bentley Square, Crossroads Plaza, also sells quilts, dolls, home decoration items, jewellery and other gifts by Utah artisans. Utah Woolen Mills Clothiers, 59 West South Temple, is the city’s oldest and finest independent clothing establishment, while Ken Sanders Rare Books and Sam Weler’s Zion Bookstore are arguably the leading purveyors of another Salt Lake favourite, antiquarian books.

Shopping hours

Most stores are open daily and general shopping hours are Monday to Saturday 0900-2100 and Sunday 1100-1700.

Tax information

Sales tax is 6.6%, which foreign visitors are able to reclaim upon departure. Global Refund (tel: 1 800 566 9828; www.globalrefund.com) provides further information. Additional taxes may be charged in individual counties.

Events

Sundance Film Festival
Mid January
Park City
Website: www.sundance.org/festival

Utah Shakespearean Festival
June-October
Cedar City
Website: www.bard.org

Utah Arts Festival
June
Arts festival with food and entertainment.
Downtown
Website: www.uaf.org

Days of '47
Mid July
Festival, concerts, rodeos and parades honouring Utah's early pioneers.
Downtown
Website: www.daysof47.com

Snowbird Rock and Blues Festival
Last weekend in July
Snowbird ski resort
Website: www.snowbird.com

Oktoberfest
September-October (weekends)
German festival with traditional food, beer, dancing.
Snowbird ski resort
Website: www.snowbird.com

Utah State Fair
September
Utah State Fairpark
Website: www.utah-state-fair.com

Buffalo Days
September
Western round-up to move the bison herd to the northern part of the island.
Antelope Island State Park

World of Speed
September
Amateur and professional racers attempt to set new land speed records.
Bonneville Salt Flats
Website: www.saltflats.com

Autumn Classics Music Festival
September
Chamber music concerts.
Salt Lake City and Park City
Website: www.pcmusicfestival.com 

History & Culture

Salt Lake City's founders made it their mandate to foster the arts and that legacy continues with world-class performing arts companies in music, dance and theatre. There is also a whole host of museums and art galleries.

CitySearchUtah (website: www.utah.citysearch.com) provides an online guide to events, while the SaltLakeCityTribune (website: www.sltrib.com) has daily listings. CityWeekly (website: www.slweekly.com) and TheEvent are free weekly papers with extensive reviews and listings.

Smith'sTIX (tel: (801) 467 8499 or 1 800 888 8499; website: www.smithstix.com) is the most accessible ticket agency, with branches located in Smith's grocery stores throughout the city.

Music: The Mormon Tabernacle Choir is famous throughout the world and visitors can attend weekly performances (see KeyAttractions). The Utah Symphony (tel: (801) 533 5626; website: www.utahsymphony.org) stages regular concerts at Abravanel Hall, 123 West South Temple (tel: (801) 355 2787). The Utah Opera Company (tel: (801) 533 5626; website: www.utahopera.org) stages three operas a year featuring internationally known artists at the Capitol Theatre, 50 West 200 South (tel: (801) 355 2787). In addition to these venues, many performing arts companies stage productions at the Rose Wagner Performing Arts Center, 138 West 300 South (tel: (801) 355 2787).

Theatre: The Pioneer Theatre Company (tel: (801) 581 6961; website: www.pioneertheatre.org) performs classic and contemporary plays and musicals, from September to May, in their theatre at the University of Utah campus. Also located at the university is the Babcock Theatre, which stages more experimental productions. Salt Lake Acting Company, 168 West 500 North (tel: (801) 363 7522; website: www.saltlakeactingcompany.org), is a professional theatre company producing year-round plays, including regional premieres of Broadway plays. Hale Centre Theatre, 3333 South Decker Lake Drive (tel: (801) 984 9000; website: http://halecentretheatre.org), puts on musicals, comedies and classics for family entertainment.

Dance:Ballet West (tel: (801) 323 6900; website: www.balletwest.org) is considered one of the country's premier dance companies. Its repertoire includes classic ballets as well as original works, performed at the Capitol Theatre, 50 West 200 South (tel: (801) 533 5626). The Repertory Dance Theatre (tel: (801) 534 1000; website: www.rdtutah.org), founded in 1966, was the first professional modern dance repertory company established outside New York. Also widely renowned is the Ririe-Woodbury Dance Company (tel: (801) 297 4241; website: www.ririewoodbury.com), with innovative and often humourous dance productions. Both perform at the Rose Wagner Performing Arts Center, 138 West 300 South (tel: (801) 355 2787).

Film:Sundance Institute, a non-profit arts organisation dedicated to the development of independent filmmakers, which is run by Robert Redford and located in the nearby mountains, has an office at 1825 Three Kings Drive, Park City (tel: (435) 658 3456; website: www2.sundance.org). Two central mainstream cinemas are Broadway Center Theater, 111 East Broadway 300 South (tel: (801) 321 0310) and Trolley Square Cinemas, 602 East 500 South (tel: (801) 746 1555; website: http://regencymovies.com). Tower Theatre, 876 East 900 South (tel: (801) 321 0310; website: www.towertheater.com), not only shows arthouse, independent and foreign films but also hosts an annual Rocky Horror Picture Show (1975) night in October.

Utah was discovered by Hollywood in the 1920s and has since had over 700 films and TV movies filmed in the state, in part due to its stunning scenic beauty and diversity. The US TV series TouchedbyanAngel was filmed in Salt Lake City, as were Desperate Hours (1990), The Sandlot (1993), Dumb and Dumber (1994), A Life Less Ordinary (1997), Con Air (1997), and Legally Blonde 2 (2003). The chase scene in HowtheGrinchStoleChristmas (2000) was filmed in Big Cottonwood Canyon, outside the city. Many well-known movies filmed in various parts of Utah include Gunsmoke (1955-75), Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid (1969), Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade (1989), Thelma and Louise (1991), Forest Gump (1994), Mission: Impossible 2 (2000), Planet of the Apes (2001), Flyboys (2003), and National Treasure (2004).

LiteraryNotes: For over a century writers have marvelled at the Great Salt Lake. In CityoftheSaints (1861), Richard Burton called it 'that inland briny sea, which apparently has no business there'. In RoughingIt (1872), Mark Twain joked that Salt Lake City was so healthy that its one doctor was regularly arrested for having no visible means of support.

Robert Gottlieb and Peter Wiley offered an insight into the politics and economic strength of the Mormons with America'sSaints, published in the 1980s. Local writers include Tom Roulstone, whose OneAgainsttheWilderness (1996) is a work of historical fiction that chronicles the life of a woman in the mid 19th century, as she travels west with the LDS, and Angela K Black, who wrote Bitterbrush (1994), a mystery story set in the Wasatch Mountains overlooking Salt Lake City. Aspiring author and Salt Lake resident Sara Zarr was a finalist for the 2007 National Book Award with her teen novel Story of a Girl.

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