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City Overview

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Besides its iconic historical sights, including Independence Hall, where the Declaration of Independence was signed in 1776, Philadelphia also has a vibrant arts scene, with a renowned orchestra, world-class museums and some fantastic restaurants. The Kimmel Center for the Performing Arts is the city's crown jewel, though 'Philly', as natives refer to it, is also home to art house cinemas, forward-leaning galleries and traditional and avant-garde theatre.

Over 100 multi-ethnic neighbourhoods have created a colourful tapestry of the urban setting, from the bustling Italian market to African-American festivals, from blues and jazz clubs to the traditional Amish community who sell produce and foodstuffs in Reading Terminal Market. Philadelphia is also the gateway for those travelling west into Pennsylvania Dutch Country, north to the ski resorts of the Pocono Mountains and southeast to the Delaware Peninsula and Atlantic Seaboard beaches.

Getting Around

Airport

Philadelphia International Airport (PHL)
Tel: (215) 937 6937 or 1 800 745 4283 for 24-hour flight information.
Website: www.phl.org

The airport is 11km (7 miles) southwest of the city centre. Its seven terminals handle non-stop services to Europe, Canada and the Caribbean, as well as more than 100 US cities.

ApproximateflighttimestoPhiladelphia: From London is 8 hours 20 minutes; from New York is 1 hour; from Los Angeles is 5 hours; from Toronto is 2 hours and from Sydney is 25 hours.

Airportfacilities: Facilities include restaurants, snack bars, shopping outlets, duty free, currency exchange, ATMs and medical services. For language assistance contact the Communications Center from any white airport information telephone or at the Passenger Assistance Counter located at the exit to US Customs in the terminal A. Car hire is available from Alamo, Avis, Budget, Dollar, Enterprise, Hertz and National.

Transporttothecity:SEPTA'sAirportRailLine (tel: (215) 580 7800; website: www.septa.org), runs every 30 minutes to four city centre rail stations - University City, 30th Street, Suburban station and Market East (journey time - approximately 20 minutes). SEPTA bus routes 37 and 108 also take travellers to the downtown area or Center City. A taxi fare from the airport to Center City is a flat rate of US$28.50 (journey time - 25 minutes). LadyLiberty shared-van service goes to major hotels every 15-20 minutes (at Ground Transportation Desk, dial X27 or tel: (215) 724 8888). For further information, contact the airport's Ground Transportation Hotline (tel: (215) 937 6958).

Trains

Amtrak (tel: (215) 349 2152 or 1 800 USA RAIL; website: www.amtrak.com) is America's national railway. Amtrak's reputation and levels of service continue to grow with the introduction of new trains and high speed services on the Eastern seaboard. Increasingly, these Eastern services are becoming a viable alternative to the airlines on the shorter routes, such as to Boston and New York. The monumental Amtrak 30th Street station, 30th Street and Market Street, is across the Schuylkill River in the university district. Facilities at the station include rail information, checked baggage service, payphones, snack bars and car hire from National and Budget.

Rail Services
Philadelphia is a major hub on the northeast corridor between Boston and Washington, DC, served by the high speed Acela Express route. Journey times from Philadelphia on this service are Boston - 5 hours 10 minutes, New York City - 1 hour 10 minutes, Baltimore - 1 hour, and Washington, DC - 1 hour 40 minutes. Long-distance trains also connect to southern and western destinations in the USA.

By Road

Road travel in Pennsylvania is excellent, with good state roads connecting Philadelphia, Scranton, Harrisburg and Pittsburgh, as well as outside destinations, such as Niagara Falls and Washington, DC.

The general rule for numbering on US freeways and interstates is that the odd numbers go north-south and the even numbers go east-west over their whole length, although at any single, localised point this may seem otherwise.

Driving in the United States is on the right. For UK nationals, a full UK driving licence is sufficient, but some other nationalities may be required to have an International Driving Permit (printed in English and bearing a photograph). Drivers are required to have third party liability insurance, however, collision damage insurance is advised, as costs can be very high in the USA.

The minimum driving age is 16 years. Speed limits are generally 48kph (30mph) in town, 88kph (55mph) on highways and 105kph (65mph) on the interstate highways, unless otherwise posted. The wearing of seat belts by persons in the front seat and children under 18 years of age is mandatory by law. Children under four years of age must be protected in car seats; children age 4 to 8 must use a booster seat.

Pennsylvania has strict drink driving laws and driving while intoxicated is cause for arrest and a criminal charge. The maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio is 0.08%.
The American Automobile Association - AAA (tel: 1 800 763 9900; website: www.aaa.com) provides emergency service and information and may offer reciprocal benefits to members of automobile clubs in other countries.

Emergency breakdown service: AAA

(tel: 1 800 222 4357/AAA HELP).

Routes to the city
The Pennsylvania Turnpike (Interstate 76) is a toll road providing swift and efficient travel across the state, from New Jersey to Ohio. It leads into Philadelphia from the east and the west. The interstate highway I-95, also known as the Delaware Expressway, connects Philadelphia to Baltimore, Maryland and Washington, DC in the south and to New York City and Boston in the north. The I-95 connects with the I-87, which runs north to Montreal.

Coach services
Greyhound (tel: 1 800 231 2222; website: www.greyhound.com) provides bus services to and from Philadelphia. The main terminal, the Greyhound Terminal, is located at 1001 Filbert Street (tel: (215) 931 4075). Facilities are basic - toilets and a snack bar. There are buses to and from all parts of the country, including transcontinental services via Chicago, Illinois and St Louis, Missouri.

Local Transport

Public Transport

Philadelphia is easy to navigate, thanks to SoutheasternPennsylvaniaTransitAuthority - SEPTA (tel: (215) 580 7800; website: www.septa.org), which operates interconnecting buses, streetcars, subway and commutertrains. Operating hours for these services vary and some bus routes operate all night. Tickets are available for purchase from ticket offices and machines at the station or upon boarding (exact change required). Token discount packs are also available. All SEPTA's buses are lift-equipped for wheelchair access.

SEPTA's day pass is good for a full day of unlimited travel on all modes of transport, plus a one-way trip on the Airport Rail Line (R1). It is sold at the visitor centre at 16th Street and JFK Boulevard and online. Weekly and monthly passes are also available.

The purple Phlash (tel: (215) 599 0776; website: www.phillyphlash.com) shuttlebus runs a continuous loop around the city centre to the major attractions, from the Art Museum to Penn's Landing. Buses stop every 12 minutes at the special Phlash lampposts and services operate daily from May through November.

TheFreedomFerry (tel: (215) 925 LINK or 5465; website: www.riverlinkferry.org) provides a ferry service between Penn's Landing, Walnut Street and Columbus Boulevard in Philadelphia, and the New Jersey State Aquarium, Federal Street and Riverside Drive in Camden, during the summer (May-Sep). Crossings take 12 minutes and leave every hour on Saturdays and Sundays. You can buy tickets at dockside terminals.

Taxis

Taxis are easily hailed in the street throughout Center City. Taxi companies offering a telephone service include YellowCabCo (tel: (215) 333 3333), LibertyCabCo (tel: (215) 389 8000) and QuakerCityCab (tel: (215) 728 8000). A tip of 15% is generally expected.

Driving in the City

With such a compact city centre and good public transport, a car is not necessary in central Philadelphia, although it is useful for excursions to outlying areas. Nevertheless, driving is pleasurable, as navigating is easy - streets are laid out on a grid system. Numbered streets run north-south and named streets run east-west. The main thoroughfares are Broad Street and Market Street - at their intersection is City Hall. As in any large city, the downtown area can sometimes become clogged with traffic, especially during rush hours (0700-0930 and 1530-1830).

There are many parking lots and garages located around the city centre. On-street parking is also available in Center City but visitors should look at the posted signs for restrictions on when parking is allowed.

Car Hire

The minimum age for car hire is generally 25 years but some companies will hire cars to drivers aged between 21 and 24 years for a steep premium. Those wishing to hire a car must be in possession of a full national driving licence. Liability insurance is costly but necessary. It is a good idea to check with your insurance company or your credit card to see if they cover hire car liability.

Among the major car hire companies operating in Philadelphia are Alamo (tel: 1 888 826 6893; website: www.alamo.com), Avis (tel: 1 800 331 1212; website: www.avis.com), Budget (tel: 1 800 527 0700; website: www.budget.com), Dollar (tel: 1 800 800 3665; website: www.dollar.com), Enterprise (tel: 1 800 261 7331; website: www.enterprise.com), Hertz (tel: 1 800 654 3131; website: www.hertz.com) and National (tel: 1 800 227 7368; website: www.nationalcar.com).

Bicycle Hire

TrophyBikes, 3131 Walnut Street, (tel: (215) 222 2020; website: www.trophybikes.com) and BikeLine, 1028 Arch Street (tel: (215) 923 1310; website: www.bikeline.com) hire out bicycles by the day. Prices include lock, helmet and map.

General Information

Location

Pennsylvania, eastern United States.

Time zone

GMT - 5 (GMT - 4 from the second Sunday in March to the first Sunday in November).

Electricity

110 volts AC, 50Hz; standard flat two-pin plugs are used.

Average January temperatures

0.6ºC (33ºF).

Average July temperatures

26ºC (78ºF).

Annual rainfall

1,024mm (40.3 inches).

Things to do

Sightseeing Overview

There's much to see in Philadelphia, with historic sights and world-class museums topping the list. This is a great city for walking, with the main sights sprinkled around the compact city centre; and there's much to discover just wandering through the old neighbourhoods.

At the heart of downtown is City Hall. Directly east, on Market Street, is Independence National Historical Park, with the famous Liberty Bell, Independence Hall and the National Constitution Center; Market Street continues on to the waterfront and Penn's Landing.

North of Market Street is the Old City Cultural District, with Christ Church and Elfreth's Alley, a picturesque lane that's also the oldest residential street in America - the first house was built in 1713. To the south is Society Hill, with more historic buildings, and the trendy South Streetneighbourhood of shops, restaurants and nightlife.

Circling clockwise around the City Hall hub are the Convention Center District, where Chinatown, Reading Terminal Market, the business district and many fine shops and department stores are located; the colourful Washington Square and upmarket Rittenhouse Square neighbourhoods; and the Parkway/Museums district. The diagonal Benjamin Franklin Parkway leads to the grandedame of this area, the Philadelphia Museum of Art.

Beyond, leafy Fairmount Park spreads along the Schuylkill (SKOO-kull) River. Broad Street, the 'Avenue of the Arts', runs south past many performing arts venues. Nearby is South Philadelphia, home of the cheesesteak and the famous Italian Market.

Tourist Information

Greater Philadelphia Tourism Marketing Corporation
30 South 17th Street
Suite 1710
Tel: (215) 599 0776.
Website: www.gophila.com

Independence Visitor Center
The visitor centre provides information on attractions and events throughout the region as well as computer stations to help in trip planning. Visitors can book tickets to exhibitions and events, make restaurant reservations and sign up for heritage tours.

Sixth and Market Streets, in Independence National Historical Park
Tel: 1 800 537 7676 or (215) 965 7676.
Website: www.independencevisitorcenter.com
Opening hours: 0830-1900 (Jul-Sep); 0830-1700 (Oct-Jun).

Passes

The CityPass (tel: (208) 787 4300 or 1 888 330 5008; website: www.citypass.com) allows free admission to six attractions: the Franklin Institute Science Museum, the Adventure Aquarium, the Philadelphia Zoo, the Philadelphia Trolley Works, the National Constitution Center and a choice of either the Academy of Natural Sciences or the Independence Seaport Museum. It is valid for nine days and can be purchased from the attractions on the day or online in advance. A one-day Philadelphia Pass (tel: 1 888 567 7277/PASS; website: www.philadelphiapass.com) offers free admissions to attractions plus discounts at shops and restaurants.

Attractions

Eastern State Penitentiary
The castle-like exterior looks threatening, but with a skylight in every cell and solitary confinement, it was state-of-the-art when it opened in 1829. Previously prisoners were thrown into one big room, so this structure was considered a big step forward in social reform. The institution operated for 142 years. The cell of its most notorious inmate, Chicago mobster Al Capone, has been preserved. Note that children under seven are not admitted. On select evenings from late September through October, the penitentiary turns into a haunted house in its annual 'Terror Behind the Walls'.
2124 Fairmount Avenue
Tel: (215) 236 3300.
Website: www.easternstate.org
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700.
Admission charge.

Italian Market
Founded by Italian immigrants over 125 years ago, the Italian Market in south Philadelphia is said to be the world's largest outdoor food market and is a ‘must' for foodies and people-watchers. Imported and domestic products range from cheeses, spices, meats and fresh pastas, along with dry goods. This is one of the oldest markets in America, and many shops and restaurants are still run by original family members.
South Ninth Street, between Wharton Street and Fitzwater Street
Website: www.phillyitalianmarket.com
Opening hours: Tues-Sat 0900-1700, Sun 0900-1400.
Free admission.

Fairmount Park
Fairmount Park, by the Schuylkill River, is the largest landscaped city park in the USA, with over 3,700 hectares (9200 acres) of lush parkland and sights. Highlights include the Japanese House and Garden and Boathouse Row - a string of mid 19th-century riverside buildings housing several rowing clubs. Dotted throughout the park are 18th- and 19th-century mansions, some of which can be toured. The park also houses the nation's first menagerie, the Philadelphia Zoo. Joggers and cyclists will want to take advantage of the 346 kilometres (215 miles) of scenic trails winding through the park, including the Schuylkill River Trail, a paved 40km-long (25-mile) trail that follows a lovely stretch of the river.
Fairmount Park
Tel: (215) 683 0200.
Website: www.fairmountpark.org

Philadelphia Zoo
34th Street and Girard Avenue
Tel: (215) 243 1100.
Website: www.philadelphiazoo.org
Opening hours: Daily 0930-1700 (Mar-Nov); daily 0930-1600 (Dec-Feb).
Admission charge.

Federal Reserve Bank of Philadelphia
Money, US$100 million of it, is encased in a 7.6m (25ft) tower. Unfortunately, it is all shredded. The Money in Motion interactive exhibit traces the history of US currency from the 1600s to the present. Quizzes and touch TVs make learning about the monetary system, banking and the Federal Reserve interesting and fun. On display is a rare US$100,000 bill.
100 North Sixth Street (Sixth and Arch)
Tel: (215) 574 6115 or 1 866 574 3727.
Website:  www.philadelphiafed.org
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0930-1630 (Mar-Dec).
Free admission.

Restaurants

Gastronomic

Barclay Prime
This Valhalla for carnivores is located in an historic building that was once Barclay Hotel. Panelled walls, soft lighting and crystal chandeliers add to the ambience. Thickly upholstered leather chairs and modish couches that surround its marble tables make it comfortable. Service and presentation are excellent, but the draw is the food - any kind of meat is delicious, but the Australian Tajima Kobe steaks are outstanding. The Kobe sliders (mini hamburgers) are a very tasty appetiser. Seafood or fish offerings match the meat in quality. Reservations essential.

237 South 18th Street, at Locust Street
Tel: (215) 732 7560.
Website: www.barclayprime.com
Price: $$$$

Buddakan
One of Philadelphia's top temples to food, this handsome, calm, two-level room, with white furnishings, is presided over by an urbane Buddha. The food is very fashionable pan-Asian, such as the sesame-crusted tuna, roasted chicken with ponzu brown butter sauce and wasabi-crusted filet mignon. Starters also feature some inventive combinations like wasabi tuna pizza, and the signature chicken and ginger dumplings. All the dishes are nicely turned out and the plentiful portions are designed to be shared. Reservations are essential.

325 Chestnut Street
Tel: (215) 574 9440.
Website: www.buddakan.com
Price: $$$

Le Bec-Fin
Celebrated chef Georges Perrier has turned Le Bec-Fin into Philadelphia's ultimate dining experience. The French restaurant boasts high ceilings, glittering chandeliers and tuxedo-clad staff. The menu features an exquisite selection of dishes (roasted lobster, poached salmon with smoked caviar, domestic rack of lamb), which change seasonally. The price for all this is hefty, though the three-course prix-fixe lunch is a great way to experience the culinary pyrotechnics without breaking the bank. Visitors can also dine at the more casual downstairs Le Bar Lyonnais, which whips up excellent dishes at more reasonable prices. Georges Perrier owns the less formal, but still splendid Brasserie Perrier. Monsieur Perrier is often on hand as co-owner, and executive chef Chris Scarduzio creates French cuisine with Italian or Asian influences. The interior is charming and the atmosphere lively.

1523 Walnut Street
Tel: (215) 567 1000.
Website: www.lebecfin.com
Price: $$$$

Brasserie Perrier, 1619 Walnut Street
Tel: (215) 568 3000.
Website: www.brasserieperrier.com
Price: $$$

Business

Fork
This fashionable establishment incorporates some theatrical design features (huge lampshades, high banquettes and open kitchen) but still manages a welcoming ambience. Located on the city's main street in the historic area, this American bistro-style restaurant serves up the freshest local produce possible. Creative cocktails such as Fork Cosmopolitan and the Fork Lift (Absolut Currant with pomegranate juice) or one of the fine selections of wine by the glass are a good beginning. The menu changes frequently, but hanger steak, some sort of whole fish and tasty seafood are always in residence. Home-baked desserts are stellar.

306 Market Street
Tel: (215) 625 9425.
Website: www.forkrestaurant.com
Price: $$

Lacroix at the Rittenhouse
The setting is lovely - a long, narrow dining room with earthy tones, minimalist décor and large windows that overlook Rittenhouse Square. Here chef Jean-Marie Lacroix dazzles diners with gamy selections and fish dishes on a creative bill of fare that allows guests to mix and match from any part of the menu. ‘Superb' best describes the food, service and the wine list that boasts a cast of 500.

210 West Rittenhouse Square
Tel: (215) 790 2533.
Website: www.lacroixrestaurant.com
Price: $$$$

Trendy

Continental Mid-Town
Funky and lively, this casual, 1950s-styled, Center City restaurant is popular with everyone. Coloured glass balls hang from the middle of the multi-level ceiling to its main floor; circular banquettes occupy its centre section. The rear wall bar, which features an array of martinis and imported beers, stretches the width of the room. Smoky mirrors decorate the wall to the second level where wicker chair swings hang from the ceiling. With an eclectic sampling of Thai, Mexican, Jamaican and American, with some other countries thrown in for good measure, the menu bills itself as 'global tapas.' Any of the friendly staff will be happy to make personal recommendations, but try the highly satisfying barbecue chicken quesadillas. Open for lunch and dinner.

1801 Chestnut Street
Tel: (215) 567 1800.
Website: www.continentalmidtown.com
Price: $$

Paradigm
Simple colours and smart, economic design accent this downtown venue with its semi-circular bar, round tables, crushed velvet seating and outside terrace. As for the food, it is modern fare with a wide selection of global accents, including New Zealand lamb chops, seared Ahi tuna and Thai duck spring rolls. They also do excellent salads, seafood risotto and delicious pastas. Desserts tend to be rich but hard to pass up, like the signature Godiva soup, a combination of chocolate, pistachios, hazelnuts and vanilla ice cream. Diners should be careful to lock the unusual toilet doors - otherwise the glass is see-through!

239 Chestnut Street
Tel: (215) 238 6900.
Website: www.paradigmrestaurant.com
Price: $$

Tangerine
This stylish, wildly colourful spot has a nightclub-like design (varying from mod to Moorish), dim lighting and pulsing world beats. The menu features a daring medley of flavours, like Mediterranean whole Bronzino, halibut with a shrimp and scallop paella cake and lobster risotto. In addition to fine dining, Tangerine is a great spot for meeting up for a drink.

232 Market Street
Tel: (215) 627 5116.
Website: www.tangerinerestaurant.com
Price: $$$$

Budget

Pat's King of Steaks
One of the city's specialities is cheese steak and the best place to find it is Pat's King of Steaks, an outfit run by the same family since it opened in 1930. Located in South Philadelphia, near the Italian Market, Pat's is the local eating place for these sandwiches packed with sliced steak and melted cheese. Pat's is the original, open 24 hours a day, and is good for groups as it has tables outside in summer. Unlicensed.

1237 East Passyunk Avenue, at South Ninth Street and Wharton Street
Tel: (215) 468 1546.
Website: www.patskingofsteaks.com
Price: $

Pietro's Coal Oven Pizzeria
This might not be as familiar a method of pizza baking as the old wood-fired brick oven, however, this family business has been baking pizzas this way for 60 years - and they are just as delicious. The pizzas, which are very reasonably priced, come with a vast choice of toppings, but there are many Italian salads and pasta dishes too. It is a good venue for groups and families.

1714 Walnut Street
Tel: (215) 735 8090.
Website: www.pietrospizza.com
Price: $

Other location:
121-123 South Street
Tel: (215) 733 0675.

Rangoon
Situated in the Chinese section just off Arch Street, a short walk from the Conference Center, the green facade of Rangoon is easy to spot. As the name suggests, Burmese specialities (spinach salad, chilli shrimp and thousand-layer bread with potato curry dip) predominate here. Owned and run by three Burmese women, this restaurant, with its simple interior, is a favourite with locals in search of exotic Asian food, such as beef mint kebab and curried fish cakes.

112 North Ninth Street
Tel: (215) 829 8939.
Website: www.phillychinatown.com/rangoon.htm
Price: $

Personal Recommendations

Friday Saturday Sunday
It is over 30 years since this charming place opened. Except for the newly painted 18m (60ft) wall mural, almost everything is original, from the chains of twinkling lights to the mirrors. Situated in an old brick house on a leafy street, it is a favourite with locals. The food is simple, fresh and classic (filet mignon, rack of lamb, crab cakes), although there is also nouvelle cuisine such as horseradish-panko-crusted tilapia with lime sauce, slow-roasted duck with sun-dried cherries and other inventive fare.

261 South 21st Street
Tel: (215) 546 4232.
Website: www.frisatsun.com
Price: $$

White Dog Café
Set in three adjacent Victorian brownstones, this progressive restaurant serves delectable fare that you can feel good about eating. The White Dog supports sustainable agriculture, with high-quality, farm-fresh ingredients, with local and seasonal ingredients used whenever possible. Not surprisingly, the menu changes frequently, with selections tending toward high-end comfort food. A recent menu featured the likes of crispy duck breast with rhubarb mostarda, creole crab cakes with rémoulade sauce, herb-roasted free-range chicken with garlic mashed potatoes and grass-fed beef burger on a homemade bun.

3420 Sansom Street
Tel: (215) 386 9224.
Website: www.whitedog.com
Price: $$

Night Life

Philadelphia's bar scene is broad with a mix of the hip, the divey, the stylish and the bohemian. Fans of live music have a wealth of options with both major bands and indie upstarts lighting up Philly's stages. The city is also known for great jazz and blues. South Street, between Front Street and Seventh Street, is a trendy nightlife area, with comedy clubs, jazz and rock clubs. Other popular nightlife spots can be found on Columbus Boulevard, along the Delaware River, around Penn's Landing.
The legal drinking age in Pennsylvania is 21 years and bar closing time is 0200 daily. There are no particular dress codes or admission requirements in Philadelphia - these too tend to vary depending on the establishment.

The main daily newspapers containing nightlife listings are the PhiladelphiaInquirer and the PhiladelphiaDailyNews (joint website: www.philly.com/philly/entertainment). Entertainment listings can also be found in the free publications - CityPaper (website: www.citypaper.net), PhiladelphiaWeekly (website: www.philadelphiaweekly.com) and PhiladelphiaMagazine'sGoingOutGuide (website: www.phillymag.com). Another useful online entertainment site is CitySearch (website: http://philadelphia.citysearch.com) and the more varied Yelp (website: www.yelp.com/philadelphia).

Bars:Bar Noir, 112 South 18th Street, is a dark and divey, but quite popular underground bar with great cocktails and hipster appeal. The second level's hanging swing chairs and the rooftop terrace, which is open in warmer weather, create a very happening atmosphere at Continental Mid-Town, 1801 Chestnut Street. Good food and great margaritas make Copabanana, 344 South Street, a popular hangout. Dave & Busters, 325 North Columbus Boulevard, Pier 19 at Penn's Landing, is a huge sports bar with a 20-screen video dome, billiards and an arcade brimming with electronic games. Owned by Georges Perrier of Le Bec-Fin fame, and within the chic Brasserie Perrier, 1619 Walnut Street, is a popular bar that attracts sophisticates. Mahogany on Walnut, 1524 Walnut Street, in the Rittenhouse district, is a dark and plush cigar bar.

Clubs:Brasil's, 112 Chestnut Street, is a hot salsa and jazz spot. Live music upstairs, a DJ downstairs plus room to just chill at the bar makes Five Spot, 5 South Bank Street, a swinging place to hang out. Shampoo, 417 Eighth Street, has four levels of various music styles to choose from. Egypt, 520 North Columbus, a huge nightclub decorated with hieroglyphs and ankhs, hosts hip-hop and techno nights. Woody's, 202 South Street, is a fun place to drink and dance, especially for gay males, while Sisters, 1320 Chancellor Street, caters to the lesbian crowd.

LiveMusic: To hear an excellent line-up of world music, head across the river to WorldCafé Live, 3025 Walnut Street (website: www.worldcafelive.com), boasting two lovely performance spaces set in an old factory. Chris' Jazz Cafe, 1421 Sansom Street, and Ortlieb's Jazzhaus, 847 North Third Street at Poplar Street (website: www.ortliebsjazzhaus.com), are the city's best venues for live jazz. The Khyber, 56 South Second Street at Chestnut Street (website: www.thekhyber.com), is a venerable but welcoming rock club, hosting a line-up of indie rock. The second floor lounge has a DJ spinning dance beats.

Shopping

Shopping is a big attraction for visitors to Philadelphia, especially because the state of Pennsylvania has no sales tax on clothing or shoes and sales tax on other goods is only 7%.

Markets
Center City has hundreds of clothing and jewellery stores. The granddaddy of them all is the John Wanamaker building, on 13th Street and Market Street, now occupied by Macy's. It was designed to resemble Paris' Les Halles, and the enormous Grand Court is crowned by a 30,000-pipe organ, on which concerts are given daily.

The Gallery at Market East has a large selection of stores (170 in all) stretched across four levels. For a touch more luxury, head instead to The Shops at Bellevue, 200 South Broad Street at Walnut Street. The Shops at Liberty Place, 16th Street and Chestnut Street, is a good choice, with gourmet foods and restaurants as well as shops.
Rittenhouse Row is the city's upmarket shopping and dining district. Jeweller's Row, on Sansom Street, and Antique Row, on Pine Street, run for several blocks in the Washington Square district. South Street has several blocks of funky, eclectic shops and boutiques, while Fabric Row, on Fourth Street, between Bainbridge Street and Catherine Street, offers fabulous textile stores.

The expanse of the Italian Market, South Ninth Street (see Further Distractions) offers a range of foodstuffs every Tuesday to Saturday 0900-1700 and Sunday 0900-1400, while Head House Square offers an outdoor craft market during the summer months.

Shoppers come from all over the East Coast to the enormous King of Prussia Mall, 24km (15 miles) west of the city, on North Gulph Road. The shopping complex encompasses The Plaza and The Court, with eight major department stores and 365 speciality stores, including upmarket names like Versace, Hermes and Tiffany.

Franklin Mills, 26km (16 miles) from Center City, at 1455 Franklin Mills Circle, is a huge factory outlet mall with more than 200 stores selling name brands at 20-70% discounts.

Shopping hours
Major department stores are open Monday to Saturday 1000-1900 and Sunday 1000-1700. Most of the downtown shops close at 1800 or 1900, although those in the large malls may stay open later. Many shops and department stores also stay open until 2000 on Wednesday. The big malls outside the city centre are open Monday to Saturday 1000-2130 and Sunday 1100-1800.

Tax information
There are no tax refund schemes currently available to visitors to Philadelphia.

Events

Mummers Parade
January
String bands and parade.
Broad Street
Website: www.mummers.com

Chinese New Year
February
Chinatown

Philadelphia Film Festival
March-April
Various venues
Website: www.phillyfests.com

Philadelphia Shakespeare Festival
March-May
2111 Sansom Street
Website: www.phillyshakespeare.org

Philadelphia Open House
April-June
Tour of private homes and gardens.
Various venues
Website: www.friendsofindependence.org

Rittenhouse Square Fine Art Show
June
Rittenhouse Square
Website: www.rittenhousesquarefineartshow.org

Elfreth's Alley Fete Days
June
Elfreth's Alley
Website: www.elfrethsalley.org

Independence Day
July
Throughout the city

Philadelphia International Gay and Lesbian Film Festival
July
Various locations
Website: www.phillyfests.com

Philadelphia Fringe Festival
September
Dance, theatre, visual arts, music and plays are performed at various venues.
Website: www.livearts-fringe.org

History & Culture

Philadelphia boasts an excellent assortment of theatres, concert halls and cinemas. The performing arts have deep roots here - the city lays claim to both the country's oldest music hall and oldest theatre. South Broad Street, known as the 'Avenue of the Arts,' is crammed with theatres, concert halls and performing arts schools. Its crown jewel is The Kimmel Center for the Performing Arts, 260 South Broad Street (tel: (215) 790 5800; website: www.kimmelcenter.org). The Kimmel Center's state-of-the-art Verizon Hall is home to the Philadelphia Orchestra (tel: (215) 893 1900; website: www.philorch.org), and Peter Nero and the Philly Pops (tel: (215) 893 1900; website: www.phillypops.org), which performs everything from classics to rock 'n' roll. The Kimmel Center's Perelman Theater's resident companies include the Chamber Orchestra of Philadelphia (tel: (215) 545 5451; website: www.chamberorchestra.org) and the Philadelphia Chamber Music Society (tel: (215) 569 8080; website: www.philadelphiachambermusic.org).

Entertainment listings appear in newspapers such as the PhiladelphiaInquirer, the PhiladelphiaDailyNews and the monthly PhiladelphiaMagazine, as well as in free publications such as CityPaper and PhiladelphiaWeekly. Tickets can be purchased directly from the venues or from TicketMaster (tel: (215) 336 2000; website: www.ticketmaster.com). For Kimmel Center events, contact TicketPhiladelphia (tel: (215) 893 1999; website: www.ticketphiladelphia.org).

Music: Opened in 1857, the Academy of Music, Broad Street and Locust Street (tel: (215) 893 1999; website: www.academyofmusic.org), is the country's oldest music hall and home to the Opera Company of Philadelphia (tel: (215) 893 3600; website: www.operaphilly.com).

Theatre: America's oldest theatre, Walnut Street Theatre, Ninth Street and Walnut Street (tel: (215) 574 3550; website: www.walnutstreettheatre.org), is in Philadelphia, along with the award-winning African- American Freedom Theatre, 1346 North Broad Street (tel: (215) 765 2793; website: www.freedomtheatre.org); the Forrest Theatre, 1114 Walnut Street (tel: (215) 923 1515; website: www.forrest-theatre.com), performs Broadway blockbusters, and the Prince Music Theater, 1412 Chestnut Street (tel: (215) 569 9700; website: www.princemusictheater.org), produces original musicals. The Arden TheatreCompany, 40 North Second Street (tel: (215) 922 1122; website: www.ardentheatre.org), stages innovative productions. Productions at the WilmaTheater, 265 South Broad Street (tel: (215) 546 7824; website: www.wilmatheater.org), vary.

Dance: The Pennsylvania Ballet (tel: (215) 551 7000; website: www.paballet.org) dances classics and new works at the Academy of Music, Broad and Locust Streets, and Merriam Theater, 250 South Broad Street. A leading African-American dance company, Philadanco (tel: (215) 387 8200; website: www.philadanco.org), performs at the KimmelCenter, 260 South Broad Street.

Film: Philadelphia has been the setting for many films, including Rocky (1976), Trading Places (1983), The Sixth Sense (1999), Unbreakable (2000), portions of National Treasure (2004) with Nicholas Cage and, of course, Philadelphia (1993). The best art house cinemas in Philadelphia are the Ritz Cinemas (tel: 215 925 7900; website: www.landmarktheatres.com/Market/Philadelphia/Philadelphia_Frameset.htm) in Old City. More mainstream films are shown at Ritz Five, 214 Walnut Street; The Ritz at the Bourse, 400 Ranstead Street (tel: (215) 925 7900) and Ritz East (125 South Second Street) have comfortable reclining seats, and also show foreign and limited release films. See cutting-edge films at the Philadelphia Film Festival and the Philadelphia International Gay and Lesbian Film Festival (tel: (267) 765 9700; website: www.phillyfests.com).
Literary Notes: The city's most famous citizen, Benjamin Franklin, penned his timeless words of wisdom in his annual, Poor Richard's Almanack (1733-58), and Autobiography and Other Writings (1771-1788) here. For insight into one of the great America's great iconoclasts, read Walter Isaacson's immensely entertaining biography Benjamin Franklin: An American Life (2004).

From 1837 until 1847, Edgar Allan Poe resided in Philadelphia and wrote his famous TheFalloftheHouseofUsher (1839), TheMurdersintheRueMorgue (1841) and TheGoldBug (1843), as well as the poem AnnabelLee (1849), dedicated to his beloved wife. His house at North Seventh and Spring Garden streets is now the Edgar Allan Poe National Historic Site.

The great African-American writer and scholar W.E.B. Du Bois published some important works linked to the city, including The Philadelphia Negro (1899), a classic study of racism and its effects in the North after the Civil War. Other renowned literary Philadelphians include the poet Walt Whitman and author James A Michener, who hails from nearby Bucks County. Bucks County was also home to the Pulitzer- and Nobel-prize-winning author, Pearl S Buck, author of TheGoodEarth (1931). Her farmhouse at Perkasie is a tourist attraction. Upper-crust Philadelphia society was portrayed in Philip Barry's play, ThePhiladelphiaStory (1939), which was made into a film starring Katharine Hepburn, Cary Grant and James Stewart. More recent works include Pete Dexter's God's Pocket (1995), which offers a gritty look at the big city by a former journalist.

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