The Place for Government Per Diem Rate Hotels

City Overview

Renowned for its frenetic pace, ever on the edge of invention, New York City's creativity includes venerated restaurants, chic nightspots, cutting-edge theatre and architectural masterpieces. It also provides many hotels offering per diem rates for the federal traveler and state government traveler. Combine this, with the fact that New York City is also a global financial capital, and it's arguable that New York City is the greatest metropolis in America.

The epicentre of New York City life always has been the island of Manhattan, which is surrounded by four other distinct city boroughs - the Bronx, Brooklyn, Queens and Staten Island - all of which have their own character and attractions.

Although New York City still grapples with the events of 11 September 2001, it has regained its vitality, and now marches forward to confront the challenges of the future. Symbolic of this is the reopening of the former World Trade Center site later this year. The National September 11 Memorial will be a tree-filled plaza consisting of two giant pools, intended to represent the footprints of the former twin towers, featuring cascading waterfalls and inscribed with the names of the 3,000 victims of 9/11. The memorial is sure to resonate with New Yorkers and visitors alike.

Coney Island is also due to get a multi-million dollar make-over this summer, which will include new high-rise hotels, shops, cinemas, an indoor water park and the city’s first rollercoaster in 80 years. Brooklyn Bridge Park is continually being developed, helping to expand green space within the city, while a new cycle share scheme planned to start from August will make the city easier to navigate.

Getting Around

Airport

The three airports serving New York City (John F Kennedy International, La Guardia and Newark Liberty International Airport) are operated by the Port Authority of New York and New Jersey (tel: (212) 435 7000; website: www.panynj.gov). Passengers should arrive for international flights at least two-and-a-half hours before departure. Ground transportation information for these airports is available from the port authority (tel: 1 800 247 7433) daily 0800-1800.

John F Kennedy Airport (JFK)
Tel: (718) 244 4444.
Website: www.kennedyairport.com  

JFK is situated in Queens, 24km (15 miles) southeast of central Manhattan, and is New York's busiest airport, with flights to destinations worldwide.

Airport facilities: Facilities include bureaux de change, ATMs, Wi-Fi access, bars, restaurants, post offices, shops, duty-free boutiques and major car hire companies, including Avis, Budget and Hertz. Hotel reservations are available in Terminals 1, 4 and 7 by Accommodations Plus, Inc. (tel: 1 800 733 7666; website: www.hotelexpress.com) and in Terminal 3 by Megan Services (tel: 1 800 441 1115). The Air Train runs frequently between terminals and connects JFK with the Long Island Railroad (LIRR) and New York City Transit (NYCT) local subways and buses.

Transport to the city:Air Ride (tel: 1 800 247 7433; website: www.panynj.gov) provides information on ground transportation to and from JFK and car park information. The Air Train (see above) also connects with Long Island Rail Road (LIRR) to Jamaica station and with New York City Transit subways (NYCT) to Howard Beach subway station. From Jamaica station, the LIRR  (tel: (718) 217 5477; website: www.mta.info/lirr) takes approximately 20 minutes to Manhattan's Penn Station. The MTA ‘A' train (tel: (718) 330 1234; website: www.mta.info/nyct) takes approximately 90 minutes to central Manhattan, with many stops along the way. The New York Airport Service (tel: (718) 875 8200; website: www.nyairportservice.com) express bus runs non-stop to the Port Authority Bus Terminal or Grand Central Station. Buses depart JFK every 15 to 30 minutes, daily 0615-2310 (journey time - 45 to 90 minutes, depending on traffic). The Super ShuttleManhattan (tel: (212) 258 3826; website: www.supershuttle.com), available 24 hours a day, is a shared door-to-door minibus service that travels anywhere in Manhattan. Taxis to Manhattan are a flat rate US$45, plus tolls and tips.

La Guardia Airport (LGA)
Tel: (718) 533 3400.
Website: www.laguardiaairport.com  

La Guardia is located in Queens, 13km (8 miles) east of central Manhattan. The airport handles mostly domestic flights.

Airport facilities: Facilities include ATMs, Wi-Fi access, money exchange, child care, bars, restaurants, shops, duty-free boutiques and car hire from Avis, Budget, Dollar, Hertz and National. A free shuttle service transports visitors between terminals.

Transport to the city:Air Ride (tel: 1 800 247 7433; website: www.panynj.gov) provides information on ground transportation and parking. Public transport is available on the MTA (tel: (718) 330 1234) bus M60, which intersects with many subway lines as it crosses to the Upper West Side of Manhattan. The bus operates daily 0450-0100 (journey time - approximately 1 hour). An express bus of the New York Airport Service (tel: (718) 875 8200; website: www.nyairportservice.com) travels every 30 minutes to the Port Authority Bus Terminal or Grand Central Station (journey time - 40 to 50 minutes). Super Shuttle Manhattan (tel: (212) 258 3826; website: www.supershuttle.com), available on demand 24 hours a day, is a shared door-to-door minibus service that travels anywhere in Manhattan. Metered taxis to Manhattan cost around US$25-35, plus tolls and tips.

Newark Liberty International Airport (EWR)
Tel: (973) 961 6000 or 1 800 397 4636.
Website: www.newarkairport.com  

Newark Liberty is located in New Jersey, 27km (16 miles) southwest of central Manhattan.

Airport facilities: Facilities include ATMs, currency exchange facilities, Wi-Fi access, duty-free and other shops, restaurants, bars, a nursery and car hire from Avis, Budget and Hertz. Accommodations Plus, Inc. (tel: 1 800 733 7666; website: www.hotelexpress.com) has red phones within the facility for hotel reservations.

Transport to the city:Air Ride (tel: 1 800 247 7433, website: www.panynj.gov) is an information provider for ground transportation and parking. The NJ Transit Airtrain service (tel: 1 800 772 2222; website: www.njtransit.com) connects Newark Airport to Penn Station in Manhattan via New Jersey Transit. Trains run weekdays from 0500-0200 and weekends from 0600-0200 (journey time - 26 to 38 minutes). Coach USA (tel: (908) 354 3330 or 1 877 863 9275; website: www.coachusa.com/olympia) offers bus services to Penn Station, Port Authority Bus Terminal, Grand Central Station and several Midtown hotels. Buses run every 15-30 minutes daily 0400-0100 (journey time - 30-60 minutes). Taxis to Manhattan cost approximately US$45-US$75, plus tolls and tip.

Approximate flight times to New York: From London is 7 hours and 45 minutes; from Los Angeles is 6 hours; from Toronto is 1 hour and 40 minutes; and from Sydney is 22 hours.

Trains

New York is well connected by rail.

Rail Services

New York City has two main stations. Grand Central Station, 42nd Street, Park Avenue, is the terminus for Metro-North Railroad, with services to upstate New York, New Jersey and Connecticut. Pennsylvania Station, referred to as Penn Station, 34th Street, Sixth Avenue, serves Amtrak and the Long Island Railroad.

Penn Station and Grand Central Station both have ATMs, bars, cafes, waiting rooms, shops and taxi ranks. Grand Central Station is a model of regeneration and the city's most impressive transport hub. Penn Station, on the other hand, is institutional, without many comfortable waiting areas.
 
 Rail travel tends to be expensive, although a number of rail passes are available to overseas visitors. There is no central rail information number and all enquires should be directed to the relevant provider or Amtrak.

Rail Operators

New York City's rail services are primarily operated by Amtrak (tel: 1 800 872 7245; www.amtrak.com), with services to Philadelphia, Washington DC, Boston, Atlanta, Baltimore, Chicago, New Orleans, Miami and Los Angeles. Trains also go to Toronto and Montreal in Canada.

Connections

From Philadelphia - 1 hour 30 minutes; from Washington DC - 3 hours; Boston - 3 hours 40 minutes.

By Road

US freeways and interstates are recognisable by numbers: odd numbers go north-south and even numbers run east-west over their whole length, although at any single, localised point this may seem different. Driving is on the right and the speed limit is 48kph (30mph) in the city and 105kph (65mph) on freeways.

The minimum driving age is 16 years. An International Driving Permit is recommended, although it is not legally required and a full national driving licence is accepted. All travellers are strongly advised to acquire supplementary insurance. A yellow ‘non-resident, interstate liability insurance card', which acts as evidence of financial responsibility, is available through motor insurance agents.

The American Automobile Association - AAA (tel: (212) 468 2600; www.aaa.com) provides information and roadside assistance to members.

Emergency breakdown services

AAA (tel: 1 800 222 4357).

Routes to the city

Travel to Manhattan from New Jersey, Philadelphia and Washington DC is across the George Washington Bridge or through the Lincoln or Holland Tunnels. The Verrazano-Narrows Bridge connects Brooklyn with Staten Island. Queensborough Bridge links Manhattan and Queens. The Triborough Bridge leads to upstate New York, while the New England Thruway and Bruckner Expressway lead to New England.

Driving times to the city
From Philadelphia - 2 hours; Boston - 4 hours; Washington DC - 5 hours.

Coach services

The Port Authority Bus Terminal, 628 Eighth Avenue at 40th Street (tel: (212) 564 8484; www.panynj.gov/CommutingTravel/bus/html/pa.html), handles long-distance and regional buses, as well as buses to the airports. Greyhound (tel: 1 800 231 2222; www.greyhound.com) operates bus services that link New York City to points throughout North America.

By Water

New York has two terminals used by visitors arriving by cruise ship. NY Cruise (tel: (212) 246 5450; www.nycruise.com) operates terminals on Manhattan's west side, near 55th Street, and in Red Hook, Brooklyn. Many commuter ferry services operate from terminals at Lincoln Harbor, Hoboken, Harborside, Liberty Harbor and Liberty Landing on the Hudson River, St George on Staten Island, Hunters Point in Queens and West 38th Street, Pier 11 and South Ferry on Manhattan.

The Port Authority of New York and New Jersey (tel: (212) 435 7000; www.panynj.gov) can provide more information.

Ferry services

The Staten Island Ferry (tel: (718) 727 2508; www.siferry.com) is free and operates from Whitehall terminal in Battery Park, travelling out past the Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island to Staten Island every half an hour, daily 24 hours.

There are a variety of ferry operators, including New York Waterway (tel: 1 800 533 3779/53 FERRY; www.nywaterway.com) and Seastreak America (tel: (732) 872 2628 or 1 800 262 8743/BOAT RIDE; www.seastreak.com).

Transport to the city

New York Water Taxis (tel: (212) 742 1969; www.nywatertaxi.com) provide speedy service to piers in Manhattan, Brooklyn and Queens.

Local Transport

Public Transport

Public transport is run by the Metropolitan Transit Authority (MTA), New York City Transit (tel: (718) 330 1234; www.mta.info).

The 24 hour subway is fast and cheap, although it is still best avoided late at night. The network serves over 400 stations. Staten Island is served by the MTA Staten Island Railway (tel: (718) 966 7478/SIRT: www.mta.info).

Travellers use a MetroCard available at station kiosks and newsagents.

Bus services are extensive and 24 hour, with stops every few blocks. Fares are paid with a MetroCard or exact change.

Taxis

Taxis are hailed on the curb. A 10-15% tip is expected, and there are various surcharges. Private car services can be called directly for fixed rate fares.

Driving in the City

Driving in Manhattan is not recommended to visitors. The traffic is horrendous and combined with impatient drivers, exorbitant parking fees, and elusive street parking, and you rapidly get the picture.

Car Hire

Drivers must be at least 25 years old.

Recommended car hire companies include include Alamo (tel: 1 800 462 5266; www.alamo.com), Avis (tel: 1 800 331 1212; www.avis.com), Budget (tel: 1 800 527 0700; www.budget.com), Dollar (tel: 1 800 800 3665; www.dollar.com) and Enterprise (tel: 1 800 261 7331); www.enterprise.com).

Bicycle Hire

There are almost 200km (124 miles) of bike lanes in New York. Bite of the Apple Tours/Rentals, 203 West 58th Street (tel: (212) 541 8759: www.centralparkbiketour.com), offers bicycle hire.

General Information

Location

New York State (NY).

Time zone

GMT - 5 (GMT - 4 from second Sunday in March to first Sunday in November).

Electricity

110-120 volts, 60Hz; flat two-pin plugs are standard.

Average January temperatures

0°C (32°F).

Average July temperatures

25°C (77°F).

Annual rainfall

1,200mm (47.3 inches).

Things to do

Sightseeing Overview

Most tourists focus on Manhattan, where the iconic attractions are located. The remaining four boroughs are primarily residential (the Bronx to the north, Queens to the east, Brooklyn to the southeast and Staten Island to the southwest), although it's worthwhile exploring them all - particularly Brooklyn.

Mostly flat and easily navigated, Manhattan itself is great for walking, with the excellent subway system handy for longer hops between attractions. The city is packed with things to do and places to see - each street and neighbourhood offers its own varied sights and flavours. Top attractions, like the Statue of Liberty and the Empire State Building, are world renowned, but there are enough less heralded places to fill weeks of sightseeing.

Manhattan has many distinct neighbourhoods that are worth exploring, from the ritzy shopping and residential districts uptown, to the financial district of downtown, taking in the villages in between.

Soho (which got its name because it is south of Houston Street, pronounced HOW-stun) is famous for its shopping. Greenwich Village traditionally contains a literary and gay community and has the quaint bookstores and cafes to go with it. The young-and-hip East Village retains its edginess, which is reflected in its quirky shops, record stores, nightclubs and drinking spots.

Historical Lower East Side, once an immigrant neighbourhood, is now filled with boutiques and vintage shops, nightclubs and restaurants. Chelsea, the centre of the city's gallery scene, is another gay-friendly neighbourhood.

Away from the city, Long Island and a number of city beaches provide an escape on hot and humid summer days.

Tourist Information

NYC & Company - Convention and Visitors Bureau
810 Seventh Avenue, between 52nd and 53rd Streets
Tel: (212) 484 1222.
Website: www.nycvisit.com or www.nyc.com  
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0830-1800, Sat-Sun 0830-1700.

Visitor Information Kiosks
NYC Heritage Tourism Center
Southern tip of City Hall Park on the Broadway sidewalk at Park Row
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1800, Sat-Sun and holidays 1000-1700.

Chinatown
At the junction where Canal, Walker, and Baxter Streets meet
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800.

Passes

The City Pass (tel: (208) 787 4300 or 1 888 330 5008; website: www.citypass.com) offers a combined ticket to selected New York attractions, including the American Museum of Natural History, the Empire State Building Observatory, Guggenheim Museum, the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the Museum of Modern Art and either Circle Line Sightseeing Cruises or the Statue of Liberty plus Ellis Island. The pass is valid for nine days and is available for purchase at any of the attractions or online.

Attractions

Bryant Park
Bryant Park, behind the New York Public Library, is reminiscent of Paris, with gravel pathways, green folding chairs and a manicured lawn. It is extremely popular during summer, especially as it offers free outdoor concerts and comedy shows. During Fashion Week, tents concealing the hallowed runways are set up for the seasonal haute couture fashion shows.
Between 40th and 42nd Streets and Fifth and Sixth Avenues
Tel: (212) 768 4242.
Website: www.bryantpark.org  
Opening hours: Daily from 0700. Closing times vary each month; check the website for details. There is a free ice rink Nov-Jan 0700-2200.
Free admission.

New York Public Library
The opulent, 1911 beaux arts design is a national landmark. Two marble lions, nicknamed Patience and Fortitude, grace its grand Fifth Avenue entrance. The bronze front doors lead to the magnificent, marble Astor Hall. The library houses 6 million books, 12 million manuscripts and 2.8 million pictures. Visitors may tour the impressive reading rooms and literary exhibitions.
Fifth Avenue and 42nd Street
Tel: (212) 930 0800/30.
Website: www.nypl.org
Opening hours: Mon 1100-1800, Tues-Wed 1100-1930, Thurs-Sat 1100-1800, Sun 1300-1700.
Free admission.

Grand Central Terminal
Visitors to New York should take the opportunity to tour Grand Central Terminal, familiar to many as Grand Central Station. Situated in Midtown, just one block east of Bryant Park, the world's largest railroad station has historical and architectural importance and the celestial ceiling is remarkable. Free tours take place every Wednesday and Friday at 1230. The Wednesday tour is run by the Municipal Arts Society (donations appreciated) and departs from the information booth of the Grand Concourse, while the Friday tour, run by the Grand Central Partnership, meets in front of the Phillip Morris/Whitney Museum on 42nd Street. No advance reservations are necessary. You can download an independent walking tour via the website below. The station also boasts a fine dining concourse and a number of shops, including the Grand Central Market.
42nd Street, at Park Avenue
Tel: (212) 340 2583 or 935 3960 or 697 1245 (tours) or 340 2210 (event hotline).
Website: www.grandcentralterminal.com
Opening hours: Daily 0530-0130.
Free admission.

Museum of Sex
It is a bit out there, but this unique venue seeks to present history, evolutions and cultural significance of human sexuality as well as examining contemporary attitudes toward permissible and taboo pleasures. Ongoing exhibits include the ‘Spotlight on the Permanent Collection', featuring many of the nearly 10,000 items in the museum's permanent collections, and ‘Stags, Smokers and Blue Movies', a retrospective on American pornographic films, dating from the early 1900s to the present day.
233 Fifth Avenue at 27th Street
Tel: (212) 689 6337 or 1 866 667 3984/MOSEXTIX.
Website: www.museumofsex.com  
Opening hours: Sun-Fri 1100-1830, Sat 1100-2000.
Admission charge.

The Jewish Museum
The 1908 greystone mansion houses one of the world's largest collections of Judaica. The two-floor permanent exhibition, ‘Culture and Community: The Jewish Journey,' traces the history of Judaism with artwork, ceremonial objects, photography, interactive screens and audio. Special art presentations focus on Jewish art and history. Daily tours on different exhibits run on the quarter hour starting at 1215. Located across from Central Park on the ‘Museum Mile'.
1109 Fifth Avenue at 92nd Street
Tel: (212) 423 3200.
Website: www.thejewishmuseum.org  
Open hours: Sat-Wed 1100-1745, Thurs 1100-2000.
Admission charge.

Restaurants

Gastronomic

Chanterelle
The décor is simple (Austrian shades, crystal chandeliers, fresh flowers and bare walls except for the etchings in the entranceway), but Chanterelle remains one of the city's top French restaurants. Grilled seafood is a perennial favourite on the ever changing menu that features the likes of steamed leek-wrapped salmon with saffron, roast squab with pea ravioli and rack of lamb with cumin salt crust.

2 Harrison Street (at Hudson Street) in Tribeca
Tel: (212) 966 6960.
Website: www.chanterellenyc.com  
Price: $$$$

Daniel
Named after renowned chef-owner Daniel Boloud, this restaurant consistently ranks among the city's most opulent venues for French fare. With an accent on seasonal ingredients, culinary masterpieces have included butter-poached Maine lobster with kumquats and peppered polenta tuile, slow-baked Dover sole with Louisiana crayfish and a duo of red-wine-braised short ribs and peppered shallot confit with seared rib eye and sautéed porcinis. Jacket and tie are required for gentlemen.

60 East 65th Street (between Park and Madison Avenues)
Tel: (212) 288 0033.
Website: www.danielnyc.com  
Price: $$$$

Gramercy Tavern
Danny Meyer's contemporary American restaurant never goes out of fashion. Diners looking for delicious but uncomplicated meals, head to the airy first-come-first-served bar, while the formal dining room presents extraordinarily skilful fare, such as smoked lobster and grilled halibut. Those on an expense account should go all out on the market (fixed-price) menu and get a little taste of nearly everything.

42 East 20th Street (between Broadway and Park Avenue)
Tel: (212) 477 0777.
Website: www.gramercytavern.com  
Price: $$$$

Le Cirque
Designer Adam Tihany makes a whimsical circus statement at Le Cirque with soaring ceilings, a giant abstract ‘big top' and monkey statuettes. The presentation of the food is just as dramatic. Diners can savour roasted cod, paupiette of black sea bass or roasted duck with rhubarb marmalade on enormous plates to the Venetian-glass fantasies that hold delicious desserts like crème brulée.

1 Beacon Court, 151 East 58th Street (between Lexington and Third Avenues)
Tel: (212) 644 0202.
Website: www.lecirque.com  
Price: $$$$

Russian Tea Room
Reopened in 2006, the Russian Tea Room is back, and it's just as magnificent as the days when Nureyev held court. Lovers of the old dining room will be gladdened to hear that nothing has changed. The gilded eagles, plush leather banquettes and walls lined with oil paintings are still there. The food, thankfully, is just as impressive with rich borscht, glazed duck and succulent caviar among the many tsar-pleasing options.

150 West 57th Street (between Sixth and Seventh Avenues)
Tel: (212) 581 7100.
Website: www.russiantearoomnyc.com  
Price: $$$$

Business

‘21' Club
With a clientele that has included every president since Teddy Roosevelt, this former speakeasy has a history few New York venues can match. Diners enter below a line of lawn jockeys to reach the string of intimate dining rooms. The ‘21' burger is the classic choice but chef John Greeley has updated the menu of classic American fare to include dishes such as grilled swordfish with polenta cake and cedar plank-roasted Arctic char.

21 West 52nd Street (between Fifth and Sixth Avenues)
Tel: (212) 582 7200.
Website: www.21club.com  
Price: $$$

Gotham Bar & Grill
They work miracles at Gotham Bar & Grill. Tables are as tightly spaced as in any New York restaurant but the various levels and the soaring ceilings hung with lighting fixtures resembling parachutes give the illusion of space. Chef Alfred Portale, who pioneered the gravity-defying mains that everyone now emulates, does American food like nobody else. Dishes include a decadent seafood salad and Muscovy duck with foie gras.

12 East 12th Street (between Union Square and Fifth Avenue)
Tel: (212) 620 4020.
Website: www.gothambarandgrill.com  
Price: $$$$

Jean Georges
As they are so often set in basements and backrooms, restaurants in New York rarely get to brag about their view. Jean-Georges lets its location in the Trump Hotel speak for itself. Diners can sit on the terrace facing Central Park or enjoy the same view from the art deco influenced dining room. The décor is subdued, allowing chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten's French fare to shine.

1 Central Park West (between 60th and 61st Streets in Trump International Tower)
Tel: (212) 299 3900.
Website: www.jean-georges.com  
Price: $$$$

The Palm
The original New York City classic looks much like it did in the 1920s when cartoonists from the then nearby King Publications plied their craft on the restaurant walls for a meal. The cartooned walls, simple wood setting and tile floors are still a popular venue for large and succulent steaks, giant lobsters, homemade chips, creamed spinach and cheesecake. Reservations suggested.

837 Second Avenue
Tel: (212) 687 2953.
Website: www.thepalm.com  
Price: $$$

Tavern on the Green
Set in Central Park amid twinkling lights with a live swing band playing in the background, Tavern on the Green is a visitor's favourite. Inside is a maze of dining rooms, each more extravagant than the last. Tiffany-styled chandeliers grace the mirrored hallway to the left of the entrance. In terms of food, diners will find old favourites such as sirloin steak, rack of lamb, salmon and prime rib.

Central Park West at 67th Street
Tel: (212) 873 3200.
Website: www.tavernonthegreen.com  
Price: $$$

Trendy

Bombay Talkie
This trim and stylish Chelsea restaurant seamlessly blends Indian haute cuisine with street food. Among the picks are tasty dosas from the south, pork vindaloo from Goa and numerous naans, chats and kathi rolls. Portraits of glossy Mumbai film stars decorate the walls while Bollywood movies play overhead. Tasty cocktails like the Umrao Jaan (gin, lime juice and saffron syrup) add to the allure.

189 Ninth Avenue at 21st Street
Tel: (212) 242 1900.
Website: www.bombaytalkie.com
Price: $$

Esperanto
Far from the madding crowd of Times Square, this nicely lit East Village eatery serves up delicious plates of Latin-American tapas. A youthful neighbourhood crowd tucks into Brazilian pork stew, tuna ceviche and chayote salad with lime dressing. The cocktails are an equally important part of the equation with (Brazilian) caipirinhas and (Cuban) mojitos sating that insatiable thirst.

145 Avenue C at Ninth Street
Tel: (212) 505 6559.
Website: www.esperantony.com
Price: $$

Nobu
Although it opened in 1994, Nobu remains one of New York's trendiest Japanese restaurants. A-listers and model-gazers hold court inside the stylish restaurant steered by master chef Nobu Matsuhisa. The menu features over 40 different cold and hot dishes, alongside the mouthwatering sushi and tempura options. Reservations are recommended. Those who get the Nobu urge but didn't plan ahead head to neighbouring Nobu Next Door, with a superb raw bar.

105 Hudson Street at Franklin
Tel: (212) 219 0500.
Website: www.noburestaurants.com
Price: $$$

Nobu Next Door
105 Hudson Street at Franklin
Tel: (212) 334 4445.
Price: $$$

Prune
Despite its old-fashioned name, the creative rustic American fare at this tiny East Village bistro competes with some of the city's best restaurants. Popular mains include grilled quail with braised escarole and a whole grilled fish with fennel. Simple vegetable sides are also raised to their highest potential under the guidance of Chef Gabrielle Hamilton, whose childhood nickname gives the restaurant its sweet name. Prune also serves a weekend brunch. Reservations are recommended.

54 East First Street (between First and Second Avenues)
Tel: (212) 677 6221.
Website: www.prunerestaurant.com
Price: $$$

Budget

Fluffy's Cafe and Bakery
Located steps from Broadway, this small snack shop, with a few tables and a counter that faces the street, has quick service, delicious bakery goods, wraps and fresh fruit, all very reasonably priced. It is a perfect breakfast, lunch and snack stop for someone on the go or for take away. No alcohol.

855 Seventh Avenue (between 54th and 55th Streets)
Tel: (212) 247 0234.
Price: $

Mama's Food Shop
Mama's serves up tasty American comfort food in a cosy East Village setting. Diners can choose from helpings of fried chicken, grilled salmon and ‘mac ‘n' cheese', which derive from the 1950s TV dinner era. There is also a large array of oh-so-satisfying vegetable sides - broccoli with garlic, roasted brussels sprouts and mashed potatoes, to name but a few. No credit cards. No alcohol.

200 East Third Street (between Avenues A and B)
Tel: (212) 777 4425.
Website: www.mamasfoodshop.com
Price: $

Max
Max has earned many fans for its delicious but reasonably priced Italian fare. Country-style Italian table and chairs are crammed together in the main dining space, with barely room for diners to move between them and a sideboard teeming with pepper grinders and bowls of parmesan cheese. A walk through the kitchen, which bisects the restaurant, takes you to the narrow bar area and another small dining space. No credit cards.

51 Avenue B (between Third and Fourth Streets)
Tel: (212) 539 0111.
Website: www.max-ny.com
Price: $$

New York Noodle Town
Although other places will charge more, the noisy and fluorescent-lit New York Noodle Town never fails to feed its guests properly. Diners can choose from roasted fowl, salt-baked crab or soups and should be sure to get an order of the city's best Hong-Kong-style noodles. The shared tables are full at almost any hour (the restaurant closes only briefly in the early morning) sometimes with celebrities.

28 Bowery Street (at Bayard Street)
Tel: (212) 349 0923.
Price: $

Personal Recommendations

Artisanal
Set in a handsome art deco dining room, Artisinal is heaven for cheese lovers. Chef Terrence Brennan prepares high-quality French bistro fare, but it's the fromage for which Artisanal is famed. There are more than 250 different varieties on hand, representing some of the finest cheese makers in France, Spain, Portugal and the USA. Fondues are quite popular, while prix-fixe meals are an excellent value.

2 Park Avenue (entrance on 32nd Street)
Tel: (212) 725 8585.
Website: www.artisanalbistro.com  
Price: $$$

Brasserie Julien
This small, crowded bistro is a real family affair, with the restaurant named after owner/chef Philippe Feret's son, and various dishes on the menu named after other members of his family. Philippe, a former chef at Windows of the World, infuses his seasonal menu with favourites like cheese fondue, and Moroccan Chicken Bisteeya, wrapped in filo dough and stuffed with raisins, almonds and eggs. Live Jazz on Thursday, Friday and Saturday.

1422 Third Avenue (between 80th and 81st Streets)
Tel: (212) 744 6327.
Website: www.brasseriejulien.com  
Price: $$$

Do Hwa
The West Village is blocks away from the city's Little Korea and yet the vaguely upscale Korean restaurant delivers the goods. The comfortable yet semi-industrial space lends a special something to the bibimbop (rice, vegetables and sometimes meat served with kochujang, the ubiquitous red pepper paste condiment, with a fried egg) or meat-heavy tabletop grills, served with a platter of spicy kimchi and a dozen other condiments.

55 Carmine Street (between Bedford Street and Seventh Avenue)
Tel: (212) 414 1224.
Website: www.dohwanyc.com  
Price: $$

Garden Court Café
Soft background music, high beamed ceilings, flowering vines and large, live trees create a serene atmosphere in this small, glass-enclosed bistro located in the Asia Society. Chef Nima Khansari's changing menu includes light and delicious fare with unique dishes like Thai curry crab cakes and signature dishes like chicken curry salad and wild striped bass with orange soy glaze. The restaurant is known for its tea selection. Open for lunch only. Closed Mondays.

Asia Society, 725 Park Avenue at 70th Street
Tel: (212) 570 5202.
Website: www.asiasociety.org/visit/cafe  
Price: $

Gobo
This upscale vegetarian restaurant serves beautifully presented dishes. The creators of this Zen-like space have given the kind of attention to tofu, tempeh and vegetables that other restaurants give to meat dishes. And to many a patron's surprise, the ingredients are not all that different from other Japanese inspired or contemporary meals. Meat-free meals have never looked this good.

West Village location:
401 Sixth Avenue (between Waverly Place and West Eighth Street)
Tel: (212) 255 3902.
Website: www.goborestaurant.com  
Price: $$

Upper East Side location:
1426 Third Avenue
Tel: (212) 288 4686.

Il Corallo Trattoria
A local favourite, this Italian bistro is cosy, inexpensive and delicious. In the summer the French windows are open to allow diners to catch a breeze and watch the passers-by. Everything is good but try the rigatoni Pugliese - pasta, mushrooms, sun-dried tomatoes, black olives and eggplant in garlic and oil. There are always chicken, meat and fish specials plus homemade desserts.

176 Prince Street (between Thompson and Sullivan Streets)
Tel: (212) 941 7119.
Price: $$

Lupa
Although his upmarket restaurant Babbo and the more casual pizzeria and wine bar Otto span the price-range of Italian cuisine, it is Mario Batali's medium-priced restaurant that is just right. To the rustic dinner tables waiters rush crusty bread and such succulent items as a ricotta gnocchi with sausage and fennel, linguini and mussels, and a veal saltimbocca (with prosciutto and sage leaves).

170 Thompson Street (between Houston and Bleecker Streets)
Tel: (212) 982 5089.
Website: www.luparestaurant.com  
Price: $$

Night Life

New York nightlife is non-stop and highly addictive. Manhattan buzzes with nocturnal activity, from bustling neighbourhood bars to swank cocktail lounges and ultra hip nightclubs, where some of the world's best DJs entertain the city's ‘beautiful people'.

The East Village, from 14th Street to Houston, east of Broadway, is famous for its local bars that stay open late and its small live music clubs. The Lower East Side, an edgy and hip neighbourhood that borders the East Village at Houston and stretches south to Chinatown at Canal, offers a similar nightlife scene and vibe.

Soho is the cool capital, with its small chic bars attracting models, poseurs and media types. The gay scene is headquartered in the bars of Chelsea and the West Village, which also offers a lively mix of jazz clubs. Gramercy, in the 20s on the east side, has a smaller selection of velvet-rope cocktail lounges. Upmarket tastes are catered for in the sophisticated lounges and cocktail bars in Midtown and the Upper East and Upper West Sides. The city's best nightclub scene is headquartered in the Meatpacking District around Ninth Avenue and 13th Street.

Entrance fees to some of the smarter nightclubs can be pricey and are cash only. The hippest clubs employ strict dress codes, only allowing the cool and the beautiful to break through the velvet ropes. The normal club closing time is 0400, although many venues are open all night. An ever-changing crop of ‘after-hours' places offer entertainment until sunrise, however, alcohol cannot legally be served between 0400 and 0800 or after 2400 on Sunday. The minimum drinking age is 21 and checking of photo ID is mandatory.

Time Out New York (website: www.timeoutny.com) is a very good source of nightlife event information, published weekly and sold at newsagents and kiosks. A good online nightlife and restaurant guide is Yelp (website: www.yelp.com/nyc).

Bars: New York has a massive range of bars, with everything from neighbourhood dives and lively Irish pubs to slick jet-set haunts with DJs and dimly lit, cocktail lounges. Hip bars include Max Fish, 178 Ludlow Street, Lower East Side, which fills with a young, T-shirt-and-jeans crowd, and the neo-Moroccan style Serena, 222 West 23rd Street, Chelsea, a subterranean lounge in the cool and legendary Chelsea Hotel, as well as favourite of the ‘beautiful people'. Nublu, 62 Avenue C, East Village, attracts a festive, alternative crowd to its nights of Brazilian music and cutting-edge jazz. Von, 3 Bleecker Street, East Village, is a great little neighbourhood bar, with a dog or two running around, candle-lighting and a good-looking but unpretentious crowd.

A more sophisticated lounge, the Campbell Apartment, Grand Central Station, Midtown, is tucked away in this busy rail terminal, serving top-class cocktails, like Flapper's Delight, Prohibition Punch, first-rate Martinis and the perfect Manhattan. For old-time New York, there is the former speakeasy Chumley's, 86 Bedford Street, West Village, or The Monkey Bar in the Elycée Hotel, 60 East 54th Street. When it opened in 1936, its patrons included Tennessee Williams and Tallulah Bankhead.

Clubs: The New York clubbing scene is notoriously fickle. These days popular dance spots include Cielo, 18 Little West 12th Street (website: www.cieloclub.com), boasting one of the city's best sound systems. APT, 419 West 13th Street (website: www.aptwebsite.com), has a number of cosy lounges spread among a multi-level apartment-like club. Club Shelter, 150 Varick Street (website: www.clubshelter.com), is a mixed gay and straight mega-club, admired by lovers of highly danceable house music.

Comedy: New York's leading comedy venues, featuring top-line comedians, include Caroline's on Broadway, 1626 Broadway (website: www.carolines.com), HA! Comedy Club NYC, 369 West 46th Street (website: www.hanyc.com), which is booked and managed by comics, and Gotham Comedy Club, 208 West 23rd Street (website: www.gothamcomedyclub.com) - named ‘one of the 10 great places to watch stand up' by USA Today. Co-founded by the late Rodney Dangerfield, Dangerfield's, 1118 First Avenue (website: www.dangerfields.com), has received rave reviews for over 35 years.

Live Music: The famous Madison Square Garden, 1 Pennsylvania Plaza, Seventh Avenue between 31st and 33rd Streets (website: www.thegarden.com), plays host to a number of rock and pop heavies, from Britney Spears to U2. The Knitting Factory, 74 Leonard Street (website: www.knittingfactory.com), stages a good mix of rock, punk, bluegrass and experimental sounds on its three levels.

New York is also home to numerous jazz clubs, including The Blue Note, 131 West Third Street (website: www.bluenote.net), and the Iridium Jazz Club, 1650 Broadway (website: www.iridiumjazzclub.com), which both reel in the best American and international jazz musicians. Dizzy's Club Coca Cola, Jazz at Lincoln Center Broadway at 10 Columbus Circle, Fifth Floor in the Time Warner Building (website: www.jalc.org/dccc), has top-notch jazz performers, as well as a stunning view of Central Park and the East Side skyline.

Shopping

A city famous for its elegance and Bohemian chic, New York is a shopper's paradise, hawking everything from cutting-edge designer fashions to flea market bargains.

Markets

On weekends, the Antiques Garage Flea Market, 112 West 25th Street (between Sixth and Seventh Avenues), spreads an assortment of vintage goods. Along Broadway and Soho, street vendors that hawk almost everything.

Shopping centres

The mall at the Time Warner Center at Columbus Circle houses a variety of upscale shops. Famous department stores include Saks Fifth Avenue, 611 Fifth Avenue, and Macy's, Herald Square.

Key areas

The smartest shops are on Madison Avenue. Fifth Avenue is a magnet for the label conscious. Soho is the most European of the neighbourhoods. The East Village and the Lower East Side harbour street fashion, with vintage shops and music stores.

Shopping hours

Business areas open as early as 0800, while shops in Soho and the East Village open at 1200. Many stay open until at least 1900. Department stores are generally open Monday to Saturday 1000-2000 and Sunday 1200-1800.

Tax information

There’s a sales tax of 8.375% on most consumer goods (clothes and shoes are taxed at a lower rate - no tax under US$110, 4.375% over US$110). Visitors are unable to claim a tax refund.

Events

Winter Restaurant Week
January
Many of the city's best restaurants set low fixed-price menus corresponding to the year.
Various venues

Chinese New Year
Early February
New lunar year celebrations
Chinatown

Cherry Blossom Festival
Mid April
The first signs of New York spring.
Brooklyn Botanic Garden, Washington Avenue
Website: www.bbg.org

Summerstage
May-August
Free outdoor concerts.
Central Park
Website: www.summerstage.org
 
NYC Pride
June
Annual lesbian and gay pride march, ending in street festival and dance party.
Upper Fifth Avenue to the Village
Website: www.hopinc.org

Mermaid Parade
One Sat in late June
The city's most informal and most lively parade with a nautical theme.
Coney Island
Website: www.coneyisland.com
 
Fourth of July
4 July
Annual firework display in celebration of American Independence.
Over the East River

Summer Restaurant Week
July
Many of the city's best restaurants set low fixed-price menus.
Various venues

Bryant Park
June-August
Free outdoor classic films on Monday nights.
Bryant Park, 42nd Street
Website: www.bryantpark.org
 
Feast of San Gennaro
For 11 days starting the second Thursdays in September
Extravaganza of eating, drinking and merry-making.
Mulberry Street in Little Italy
Website: www.sangennaro.org

Greenwich Village Halloween Parade
31 October
Exuberant fancy dress procession.
Along Sixth Avenue

Next Wave Festival
October-December
Avant-garde dance and music festival.
Brooklyn Academy of Music (BAM)
Website: www.bam.org

New York City Marathon
November
Starts in Staten Island, finishes in Central Park
Website: www.nycmarathon.org
 
Macy's Thanksgiving Day Parade
November
New York institution featuring huge hot-air balloons in the shape of cartoon characters, such as Snoopy, the Pink Panther and Betty Boop.
Thanksgiving Day, 145th Street to 34th Street

New Year's Eve
31 December
Street party.
Times Square

History & Culture

New York City continues to be one of the most diverse and heavily textured urban cultural centres in the world. As author Tom Wolfe wrote: ‘Culture just seems to be in the air, like part of the weather.'

The principal entertainment district is the Theater District in the Broadway/42nd Street/Times Square area, with Off- and Off-Off-Broadway theatres sprinkled throughout Manhattan. More high-brow culture is headquartered in the Lincoln Center for the Performing Arts, 70 Lincoln Center Plaza, Columbus Avenue at 64th Street.
You can buy tickets through Telecharge (tel: (212) 239 6200 or 1 800 545 2559; website: www.telecharge.com) and Ticketmaster (tel: (212) 307 7171; website: www.ticketmaster.com). Reduced-priced tickets for same-day Broadway and Off-Broadway are available for purchase at the TKTS booth, near 46th Street, between Broadway and Eighth Avenue (open Monday to Saturday 1500-2000, also Wednesday and Saturday 1000-1400, Sunday 1100 until 1930). Cash or traveller's cheques only.
Information on cultural events in the city is available online (website: www.nycvisit.com). Time Out New York (website: www.timeoutny.com) also is a good source of information published weekly and sold at newsagents and kiosks.

Music: The Avery Fisher Hall in Lincoln Center, 70 Lincoln Center Plaza, Columbus Avenue at 64th Street (tel: (212) 875 5456; website: www.lincolncenter.org), is the permanent home of the New York Philharmonic (tel: (212) 875 5656; website: www.newyorkphilharmonic.org) and a temporary one to visiting orchestras and soloists.
The greatest names from all schools of music, from Toscanini to Gershwin, have performed at Carnegie Hall, 154 West 57th Street, at Seventh Avenue (tel: (212) 247 7800; website: www.carnegiehall.org), which boasts an astonishing and eclectic repertoire.

Known as the Met, the Metropolitan Opera House, in the Lincoln Center (tel: (212) 362 6000; website: www.lincolncenter.org), is New York's premiere opera venue and home to the Metropolitan Opera (website: www.metopera.org), from September to late April. The New York State Theater, also in Lincoln Center (tel: (212) 870 5570; website: www.lincolncenter.org), is where the New York City Opera (tel: (212) 870 5570; website: www.nycopera.com) perform. Its wide and adventurous programme varies wildly in quality but seats go for less than half the Met's prices.

Theatre: Theatre venues in the city are referred to as Broadway, Off-Broadway or Off-Off-Broadway - groupings that represent a descending order of ticket price, production polish, elegance and comfort and an ascending order of innovation, experimentation, and theatre for the sake of art rather than cash.

Manhattan Theatre Club performs at the Biltmore Theatre, 261 West 47th Street, and Stages I and II at City Center, 131 West 55th Street (tel: (212) 581 1212; website: www.mtc-nyc.org), produces some of the finest new plays in American theatre. For a more ethnic flavour, Harlem's Apollo Theatre, 253 West 125th Street (tel: (212) 531 5300; website: www.apollotheatre.com), has celebrated the legacy and culture of African-American music and entertainment since 1934.

Dance: New York has five major ballet companies as well as dozens of contemporary troupes. The Metropolitan Opera House, in the Lincoln Center (tel: (212) 362 6000; website: www.lincolncenter.org), is the home of the renowned American Ballet Theater (tel: (212) 362 6000; website: www.abt.org), which performs the classics from early May into July. New York State Theater, also in the Lincoln Center (tel: (212) 870 5570; website: www.lincolncenter.org), is home to the revered New York City Ballet (website: www.nycballet.com), which performs more contemporary ballet for a nine-week season each spring.

Universally known as BAM, Brooklyn Academy of Music, 30 Lafayette Street, between Flatbush Avenue and Fulton Street, Brooklyn (tel: (718) 636 4100; website: www.bam.org), is America's oldest performing arts academy and one of the busiest and most daring producers in New York. During autumn, BAM's Next Wave Festival showcases the hottest international attractions in avant-garde dance and music.

The most eminent and celebrated troupes in modern dance perform at New YorkCity Center, 131 West 55th Street, between Sixth and Seventh Avenues (tel: (212) 247 0430; website: www.citycenter.org). Big-name companies include Merce Cunningham Dance Company (tel: (212) 255 8240; website: www.merce.org), Paul Taylor Dance Company (tel: (212) 431 5562; website: www.ptdc.org), Alvin Ailey American Dance Theater (tel: (212) 405 9000; website: www.alvinailey.org), Joffrey Ballet (tel: (212) 254 8520; website: www.joffreyballetschool.com) and Dance Theater of Harlem (tel: (212) 690 2800; website: www.dancetheatreofharlem.com).

Film: New York has hundreds of modern cinema complexes and art house cinemas. Cinemas worth visiting include Film Forum, 209 West Houston Street (tel: (212) 727 8110; website: www.filmforum.org), the IFC Center, 323 Sixth Avenue at Third Street (tel: (212) 924 7771; website: www.ifccenter.com), and the Angelika Film Centre, 18 West Houston Street (tel: (212) 995 2000; website: www.angelikafilmcenter.com), all of which screen independent and art house cinema. General information, show times and advanced tickets are available from Moviefone (tel: (212) 777 3456/FILM; website: www.moviefone.com).

New York has been portrayed through celluloid in a number of ways, beginning most famously with King Kong, swinging from the Empire State Building, in the 1933 classic starring Fay Wray. Other intriguing films include Martin Scorsese's Taxi Driver (1976), where Robert De Niro plays the part of a mentally isolated New York cabbie amid the decadent metropolis. More recently, films shot in NYC have included Gangs of New York (2002), Spiderman 1, 2 and 3 (2002, 2004 and 2007 respectively), The Devil Wears Prada (2006), I Am Legend (2007) and Sex in the City (2008).

Literary Notes: New York has spawned some of America's most celebrated writers. Washington Square, at Fifth Avenue and Waverley Place, was home to the 19th-century aristocracy and provided the inspiration for the classic study of the American upper classes, Washington Square (1881), by New Yorker Henry James. Bohemian Greenwich Village has long been the favoured haunt of America's literati and is featured in the works of writers like Dawn Powell and later Jack Kerouac. The Chelsea Hotel, on West 23rd Street, is something of a writers' emporium. Here Arthur Miller penned After the Fall (1964) and William Burroughs worked on Naked Lunch (1959). One of New York's top contemporary novelists is Paul Auster, who won acclaim for The New York Trilogy (1987), a book comprising three novellas all set in New York. Recent novels set in the city include Richard Price's Lush Life (2008) and The Invention of Everything Else (2008) by Samantha Hunt.

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