The Place for Government Per Diem Rate Hotels

City Overview

New Orleans is the jewel of the southern US state of Louisiana, sparkling just above the mouth of the mighty Mississippi River where it meets the Gulf of Mexico. Its wide selection of accommodation provides the busy government traveler, federal and military traveler with a wealth of choice for per diem rate hotels.

The heart of the city lies between the river and Lake Pontchartrain and, from this approximately 13km (8-mile) core, the suburbs of Greater New Orleans spread out into the surrounding expanse of drained swampland. The river's shape, as it curves around the central district, gave rise to the city's nickname, 'Crescent City', although, New Orleans is more likely to be known as the 'Big Easy', a clue to the city's laid-back and genial atmosphere.

In August 2005, Hurricane Katrina came roaring through the Crescent City, with devastating flooding the result. Though tourist areas like the French Quarter remain intact, some mimes, musicians, jugglers and other street performers (those that lent so much charm to the area) have not returned. The lovely Garden District has recovered nicely, but signs of destruction remain visible in many other areas and the healing process is very, very slow. In conversations heard around town, terms like 'pre-K' and 'post-K' have become part of the vernacular.

New Orleans, with its unique atmosphere, is one of the most popular US destinations, particularly during its magnificent Mardi Gras celebration in late February or early March. The mixing of French, Spanish, African and American cultures over the centuries has created a unique environment, blending the genteel elegance of the colonial Creoles, the music and cuisine of the peasant Cajuns, the exuberance of Mardi Gras, a touch of voodoo and a big dollop of Dixieland jazz.

The timelessness of New Orleans can be heard in the clattering of the streetcars, the distant whistles of the riverboats, a busker playing a saxophone or the soft sounds of jazz through an open window.

Its oldest district, the French Quarter (Vieux Carré), has a wealth of architecture that portrays its colourful history. Most of the original buildings were destroyed in the fire of 1788 and the graceful houses with ornate wrought-iron balconies are actually Spanish in style. In fact, New Orleans has 17 National Historic Districts, with more than 35,000 listed buildings.

Music and the city's famous gastronomy attract visitors from all over the world. Many venues have reopened and most have returned to regular operating hours. As they say in New Orleans, 'Laissez les bons temps rouler' or let the good times roll.

Getting Around

Airport

New Orleans International Airport (MSY)
Tel: (504) 464 0831.
Website: www.flymsy.com

Named after the famous New Orleans jazz musician, the Louis Armstrong New Orleans International Airport is 24km (15 miles) west of the city in Kenner. It is easy to negotiate and has all the modern airport facilities.

Because of the Katrina disaster, service was reduced for a couple of years but is returning to a level closer to normal. The newest service includes non-stop flights from Denver, Boston and Fort Lauderdale.

Approximate flight times to New Orleans: From London is 10 hours; from New York is 2 hours 30 minutes; from Los Angeles is 4 hours; from Toronto is 5 hours and from Sydney is 21 hours.

Airport facilities: These include banks, bureau de change, ATMs, post office, luggage storage, facilities for the disabled, Internet access, multilingual information booths and a few restaurants, bars and shops. The major car hire companies, including Avis, Dollar, Enterprise, Budget, Hertz, National and Thrifty, all have offices at the airport. Business facilities are also available at Travelex, located across from the post office in the Ticket Lobby.

Transport to the city: Shuttle buses (tel: (504) 522 3500 or 1 866 596 2699; website: www.airportshuttleneworleans.com) run frequently between the airport and the major downtown hotels (journey time - 45 minutes). The service continues until the last flight of the evening. The New OrleansRegional Transport Authority (tel: (504) 248 3900; website: www.norta.com) runs a local bus service every 10 minutes; you take the E-2 Airport Bus (operated by Jefferson Transit) on the airport's upper level, which transports you to Tulane and Loyola Avenues, two blocks from Canal Street, in downtown.

Taxi fares are regulated, and fares are slightly higher for the airport than for other destinations around the city. A fixed rate of US$28 (one to two people) is charged from the airport to most areas of New Orleans. For parties of more than two, the fare is US$12 per person.

Trains

Amtrak (tel: 1 800 872 7245; website: www.amtrak.com) is the national railway provider and its service is generally good, if not reliably punctual. Trains arrive and depart from the Union Passenger Terminal, 1001 Loyola Avenue, where there is a tourist information booth and cafe.

Rail Services
New Orleans is the terminus for the City of New Orleans service from Chicago, Illinois via Memphis, Tennessee (journey time - 30 hours), and the Crescent service from New York City via Atlanta, Georgia (journey time - 19 hours). The Sunset Limited service passes through New Orleans on its 4,800km (3,000-mile) journey between Orlando, Florida (journey time - 17 hours) and Los Angeles, California (journey time - 32 hours).

By Road

Major cross-country roads in the USA are called Interstate roads. On road signs and maps, these are designated by an 'I' and a corresponding number. All 50 US states have their own traffic rules and regulations, although there is generally little difference. In Louisiana, the minimum age for driving is 16 years and cars drive on the right. All valid national licences are acceptable; however, an International Driving Permit (IDP) is preferred. US insurance is mandatory and can be purchased from the car hire company, but it is costly so check to see if your insurance covers car hire. In many cases, if the hire is charged to Diners Club International, the credit card covers the insurance.

Speed limits are generally 48kph (30mph) in town, 88kph (55mph) on highways and 105kph (65mph) on the Interstate highways, unless otherwise posted. Louisiana has strict laws against drinking and driving, and driving while intoxicated is cause for arrest and a criminal charge. Drink driving laws are strictly enforced. The maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio is 0.08%. Open containers of alcoholic beverages are not permitted in vehicles. Seat belts must be worn by everyone in the car and passengers under 12 must be seated in the back. In private vehicles, children under four years old must be protected in car seats. Drivers may turn right at a red light, after a complete stop, if the way is clear. A flashing red traffic light is the same as a stop sign, which means that it is necessary to come to a full stop and proceed when safe.

The American Automobile Association (AAA) (tel: 1 800 765 0766; website: www.aaa.com) can provide information, and may offer reciprocal benefits to members of automobile clubs in other countries.

Emergency breakdown services
AAA (tel: 1 800 222 4357/AAA HELP).

Routes to the city
I-10 heads west to Houston (Texas) and Los Angeles (California), and east to Mobile (Alabama) and Jacksonville (Florida). I-55 heads north to Memphis, St Louis (Missouri) and Chicago. I-59 connects New Orleans to Birmingham (Alabama) and Chattanooga (Tennessee). Note that the exit for the French Quarter is marked 'Vieux Carré'.

Coach services
Greyhound buses (tel: (504) 525 6075 or 1 800 231 2222; website: www.greyhound.com) arrive at the 24-hour Union Passenger Terminal, 1001 Loyola Avenue, which is shared with rail services. Facilities include a tourist information booth and cafe. There are frequent services to Baton Rouge, Lafayette, Memphis and Mobile.

Local Transport

Public Transport

Streetcars and buses are operated by the New Orleans Regional Transport Authority (NORTA) (tel: (504) 248 3900; website: www.norta.com). Streetcars and major bus routes operate a 24-hour service.

The New Orleans streetcar system is the oldest in the USA and an attraction in its own right. There are two lines - one that runs along the Mississippi riverfront and the St Charles Line.

Buses run throughout the city. Tickets for both forms of transport are purchased upon boarding.

There is also a ferry service operated by Canal Street Ferry (tel: (225) 379 1177) between Canal Street and the suburb of Algiers on the other side of the river. The trip takes 10 minutes and leaves every half-hour. It is free for foot passengers. Tickets for vehicles are purchased upon boarding (exact change only). There are no toilet facilities or food or drink concessions available in the terminals or on the ferry.

Taxis

There are thousands of taxis in the city, and they are easily found at major hotels, all over the French Quarter and along Riverwalk. At peak times and during major festivals fares go up. They can also be telephoned for, although there may be a wait. Companies include Checker-Yellow Cabs (tel: (504) 525 3311) and United Cabs (tel: (504) 522 9771 or 524 9606; website: www.unitedcabs.com). A tip of 10% is common. The Taxicab Bureau (tel: (504) 658 7102) provides further information.

Driving in the City

A car is neither necessary nor recommended in downtown New Orleans. Parking space is minimal and most hotels charge costly rates for off-street parking. Most places that visitors might want to see can be reached on foot or by taxis (see above). In the French Quarter especially, streets are narrow and are on a one-way system, with some streets being closed to vehicles at certain times. The streets are also usually crowded with visitors paying little attention to traffic and at Mardi Gras, the entire French Quarter is closed to motorised traffic.

Parking meters allow a maximum two-hour stay. Parking regulations are rigorously enforced with potentially steep fines. French Quarter parking lots are operated by Central Parking Corporation (tel: (504) 525 3191; website: www.parking.com), Downtown Parking Service, Inc. (tel: (504) 529 5708), Standard Parking Co. (tel: (504) 524 2919; www.standardparking.com), U-Park Systems (tel: (504) 585 1900; www.uparksystem.com) and hotel parking garages.

Car Hire

All the major car hire companies have offices in New Orleans, both downtown and at the airport. These include Alamo (tel: 1 800 327 9633; website: www.alamo.com), Avis (tel: 1 800 331 1212; website: www.avis.com), Budget (tel: 1 800 527 0700; website: www.budget.com), Dollar (tel: 1 800 800 4000; website: www.dollar.com) and Hertz (tel: 1 800 654 3131; website: www.hertz.com). Optional CDW (Collision Damage Waiver) insurance is always recommended if not already covered by the driver's own policy. Drivers must be over 21 years to hire a car (most companies extend this limit to 25 years) and will need a valid licence or International Driving Permit and credit card.

Bicycle Hire

Hiring a bicycle is fairly popular in New Orleans, although the most relaxing cycling is away from the French Quarter in places such as Audubon Park, City Park and by Lake Pontchartrain. To hire a bike, call Bicycle Michael's, 622 Frenchman Street (tel: (504) 945 9505; website: www.bicyclemichaels.com).

General Information

Location

Louisiana, south USA.

Time zone

GMT - 6 (GMT - 5 from the second Sunday in March to the first Sunday in November).

Electricity

110 volts AC, 50Hz; standard two-pin plugs are used.

Average January temperatures

11ºC (51ºF).

Average July temperatures

28ºC (82ºF).

Annual rainfall

1,574mm (62 inches).

Things to do

Sightseeing Overview

Although New Orleans has plenty of tourist attractions (all of the major ones have reopened since Hurricane Katrina) some of the best sightseeing is done informally. A leisurely stroll through the French Quarter reveals quaint shops, hidden courtyards and beautiful old Creole-style houses with their decorative, cast-iron balconies. A walk in the leafy Garden District leads past stately pre-war mansions, while an amble along the riverfront unveils a scene of great barges and paddle wheelers.

Most visitors head first for the historic Downtown area (the French Quarter) also called the Vieux Carré (Old Square). Laid out on a grid, it covers an area of about six by 12 city blocks, with Jackson Square at its centre.

The Upper French Quarter, stretching from Jackson Square to Canal Street and down to the riverfront, contains the most popular sights. Woldenberg Riverfront Park, with its wooden promenade known as Moon Walk, offers beautiful views of the Mississippi.

The Lower French Quarter includes the recently renovated French Market. Downtown also encompasses the Central Business District (CBD) and the Warehouse District, a renovated area of art galleries and studios, bars and restaurants.

To the southwest of the French Quarter is Uptown, where the Garden District is located. Bordering the French Quarter to the east is the Faubourg Marigny, a historic district with a bohemian feel, slowly reviving itself with bars, restaurants and nightlife spots. Across the river from downtown is Algiers, on the Westbank, which is another good area for strolling.

Tourist Information

New Orleans Metropolitan Convention & Visitors Bureau
2020 St Charles Avenue
Tel: (504) 566 5011 or 1 800 748 8695.
Website: www.neworleanscvb.com
Opening hours: Daily 0800-1700.

There is also a Welcome Centre in the French Quarter on Jackson Square, 529 St Ann Street (tel: (504) 568 5661) open daily 0830-1700. Dining and accommodation reservations can be made from the website; you can also find information and make reservations through the New Orleans Tourism Marketing Corporation's site, www.neworleansonline.com.

Passes

There are no formal visitor discount passes, however, visitors will receive a 20% discount on tickets to two or more of the following Louisiana State Museums (tel: (504) 568 6968 or 1 800 568 6968; website: http://lsm.crt.state.la.us), if purchased at the same time: the Cabildo, Presbytère, Old Mint and 1850 House.

Attractions

Blaine Kern's Mardi Gras World
Blaine Kern has long been the king of the artists who create the stupendous Mardi Gras parade floats. Massive 'props' for the floats (dinosaurs, fairy tale favourites like Cinderella and movie star characters such as Marilyn Monroe and King Kong) are scattered throughout the workshop. On a tour of the facility, often conducted by Kern himself, visitors see the floats and props being built. A Mardi Gras film, photographs, carnival souvenirs and costumes for children to try on complete the experience.
233 Newton Street, across the river at Algiers Point (A shuttle bus meets the ferry that leaves from the Canal Street landing.)
Tel: (504) 361 7821 or 1 800 362 8213.
Website: www.mardigrasworld.com
Opening hours: Daily 0930-1630; variable during Mardi Gras.
Admission charge.

Southern Food and Beverage Museum
Nicknamed SoFAB, the museum dedicated to honouring the sustenance of the South opened in Riverwalk Marketplace in June 2008. It hosts the Museum of the American Cocktail, as well. Fascinating gastronomy history for those who love to eat and drink.
1 Poydras Street at Convention Center Boulevard
Tel: (504) 569 0405.
Website: www.southernfood.org
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 1000-1900, Sun 1200-1800.
Admission charge.

St Louis Cemetery No 1
New Orleans is famous for its above-ground cemeteries or 'Cities of the Dead'. Because the high water table made underground burial difficult, people built ornate marble tombs and vaults, decorated with statuary, mosaics, wrought-iron and other ornamentation, above ground. St Louis Cemetery No 1, just above the French Quarter, dates back to 1789 and is the oldest of the city's many such burial grounds. It is also one of the most atmospheric, with crumbling tombs and the graves of some of the city's historic personages, including the voodoo queen Marie Laveau. The cemeteries are vast, unpatrolled and can attract crime, so tourists should visit them as part of a guided tour (see Tours of the City).
Basin Street between Conti and St Louis Streets
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1500.
Free admission.

City Park
Though the second largest park in the US sustained some hurricane damage, it is still an emerald refuge. Donated to the city in 1850 by John McDonough, this former sugar plantation has been a favourite destination for folks who enjoy jogging, fishing or just like to wander among giant oak trees and duck-filled ponds. The park is also home to the New Orleans Museum of Art, New Orleans Botanical Garden, a mini-train, Storyland (a children's park with fairytale characters), tennis courts and a golf course.
Bordered by Robert E Lee Boulevard, Marconi Drive, Bayou St John and City Park Avenue
Tel: (504) 482 4888.
Website: www.neworleanscitypark.com
Free admission, charge for tennis courts, golf course and Storyland.

Restaurants

Gastronomic

Arnaud's
A portrait of Arnaud Cazenave gazing down at the diners dominates the main dining room. The décor - old chandeliers, etched glass, bentwood chairs and white tablecloths probably haven't been changed since this landmark restaurant opened in 1908. Its Richelieu Bar was a speakeasy during the prohibition era. A picture gallery paves the way to its Mardi Gras costume exhibit in the upstairs museum. The shrimp rémoulade, oyster stew and creme brûlée are outstanding. Jacket is required in the main dining room. Open for dinner seven days a week and for a jazz brunch on Sunday.

813 Rue Bienville
Tel: 1 866 230 8895.
Website: www.arnauds.com
Price: $$$-$$$$

Brennan's
Since 1946, this New Orleans institution has been the place for sumptuous, calorie-laden breakfasts like eggs Benedict or original creations such as eggs Hussarde - poached eggs on Holland rusks with Canadian bacon, marchand du vin sauce and hollandaise sauce. Just as decadent is another speciality, oysters Rockefeller, as well as savoury veal and beef, which appear as lunch and dinner main courses and Brennan's original dessert - Bananas Foster (ice cream with brown sugar, fresh bananas and banana liqueur). Located in an historic, old French Quarter mansion.

417 Rue Royale
Tel: (504) 525 9711.
Website: www.brennansneworleans.com
Price: $$$-$$$$

Galatoire's
Not much has changed here in the last 100 years. Even now, brass chandeliers and bentwood chairs fill the narrow downstairs dining room and it is still a joy to just chat with the waiters. Most have been here forever or are second generation. Let them recommend some specialities that have made this place famous - crab canapé Lorenzo, oysters en brochette and lamb chops with béarnaise sauce, trout Meunière Amandine or a dessert like sweet potato cheesecake. Galatoire's has always been a favourite with chattering locals, many of whom participate in the traditional four-hour lunch on Friday afternoon, so it can sometimes get a bit noisy. Jacket required at dinnertime and all day Sunday.

209 Bourbon Street
Tel: (504) 525 2021.
Website: www.galatoires.com
Price: $$-$$$$

Business

Bayona
Think intimate, romantic and cosy and Bayona will come to mind. Inside a 200-year-old French cottage sits a small dining room decorated with photographs, murals and fresh flowers. It is here chef Susan Spicer creates her acclaimed eclectic cuisine. Favourite starters include French-Mediterranean aubergine caviar and tapenade and a goat-cheese crouton with mushrooms and Madeira sauce. The sautéed salmon main with Gewurztraminer sauce is a popular choice and is served by attentive, friendly staff.

430 Rue Dauphine
Tel: (504) 525 4455.
Website: www.bayona.com
Price: $$$-$$$$

Dickie Brennan's Steakhouse
Carnivores will be happy to know that at Dickie Brennan's Steakhouse they will find their favourite classic cuts of cow. All can be smothered with a variety of sauces including hollandaise, béarnaise, marchands du vin and pepper-cream bourbon. For others there is fish, duck and pork. The venue, with its long bar, lots of wood, cherry walls and beamed ceilings, has a clubby feel to it.

716 Iberville Street
Tel: (504) 522 2467.
Website: www.dickiebrennanssteakhouse.com
Price: $$$$

Restaurant August
One of New Orleans hottest chefs, John Besh, orchestrates the delicate dishes at the August, located in the Central Business District. Amid lavish brocades and crystal chandeliers, cuisine like Moroccan spiced duck with polenta, halibut with shrimp, citrus and fennel and seared fillet of prime beef with marrow-stuffed morels and oxtail jus are elegantly presented.

301 Tchoupitoulas Street
Tel: (504) 299 9777.
Website: www.rest-august.com
Price: $$$$

Trendy

Café Adelaide
Named after the Brennan family's beloved but eccentric aunt, Café Adelaide tries to capture the local culture of the 1950s and 60s. Earth-toned upholstery and semi-circular booths with table lamps and wooden blinds make the large dining room area quite inviting. Two-thirds of the changing menu is seafood and fish, but desserts such as Creole white chocolate bread pudding should not be missed, nor should the Adelaide Swizzle served at the table or at The Swizzle Stick Bar.

Loew's New Orleans Hotel, 300 Poydras Street
Tel: (504) 595 3305.
Website: www.cafeadelaide.com
Price: $$-$$$

Budget

Café du Monde
A visit to the Big Easy is not complete without a stop for mouth-watering beignets and chicory coffee au lait. Since 1862, these square, deep-fried fritters doused in mounds of powder sugar have titillated the taste buds of its patrons. There is not much more on the menu except juice, tea and milk, but who would desire anything else? Located in the French Market across from Jackson Square. The Café du Monde shop is across the street.

800 Decatur Street
Tel: (504) 525 4544 or 1 800 772 2927.
Website: www.cafedumonde.com
Price: $

Mother's
Locals will tell you that there is no better spot for authentic New Orleans grub. It must be true because since 1938, celebrities and ordinary folk alike have endured long lines in order to sidle up to the stainless-steel counter to order po-boys (French bread filled with shrimp or roast beef), jambalaya, étouffée or Mother's signature Ferdie special - baked ham and débris (roast beef pieces that drop into the gravy while cooking). This place is tiny so customers should not be surprised if they have to squeeze into a table or perch against the window to eat.

401 Poydras Street
Tel: (504) 523 9656.
Website: www.mothersrestaurant.net
Price: $

Praline Connection
Ribs, collard greens, fried chicken, alligator sausage. Deep South home-cooked, Cajun-Creole-style soul food rules at this funky part-restaurant, part candy store venue. Many locals believe that this is the place to go for fillet gumbo and sweet-potato pie. The staff is friendly and there is live music every night as well as a Sunday gospel brunch. Old-fashioned handmade pralines and sweet potato cookies are cooked fresh daily.

542 Frenchmen Street
Tel: (504) 943 3934.
Website: www.pralineconnection.com
Price: $-$$

Personal Recommendations

Camellia Grill
The last of the classic New Orleans dining spots to reopen post-K, this tried-and-true old diner has regained its position among must-visit places in the city. Found at the end of the St Charles streetcar route in a Greek revival-style building that summons plantation images, it's a destination that almost always has a line of people waiting to be seated - even very late at night. The 1946 landmark is beloved for its omelettes, waffles, and burgers, as well as friendly counter service.

626 South Carrollton Avenue
Tel: (504) 866 9573.
Price: $

Commander's Palace
For 125 years, Commander's Palace has been a New Orleans gastronomic favourite, and with such treats as shrimp Cognac with andouille grits, poached oysters in cream or spicy turtle soup, how can it not be? Dine in the blue and mahogany dining room or on the second floor Garden Room where huge windows reveal the patio's giant oak trees. The weekend jazz brunch is good value. Jacket preferred at dinner; no shorts.

1403 Washington Avenue
Tel: (504) 899 8221.
Website: www.commanderspalace.com  
Price: $$$-$$$$

K-Paul's Louisiana Kitchen
Paul Prudholmme, the chef that put Cajun cooking on the map and was the first chef on the street feeding rescue workers in the Katrina aftermath, is the owner of this popular restaurant. A friendly staff, open kitchen, unfinished walls and white tablecloths bordered with Cajun recipes make it inviting. Though new items on the changing menu are tempting, classics like shrimp étouffée, turtle soup, gumbo or fried green tomatoes should not be missed. Everything, including the rolls, bread pudding and the luscious green onion salad dressing, is made from scratch.

416 Chartres Street
Tel: (504) 524 7394 or 596 2530.
Website: www.kpauls.com
Price: $$$

Pascal's Manale Restaurant
This neighbourhood eatery in the Garden District is vintage N'Awlins. Since 1913, with its old-fashioned oyster bar and casual atmosphere, its focus has been on food and friendliness. Barbecued shrimp, cooked in the shell with butter and spice, was created here. While the latter is the hands-down favourite, steaks and Italian dishes are also featured. Dinner only.

1838 Napoleon Avenue
Tel: (504) 895 4877 or 1 800 772 2927.
Price: $$$

Night Life

New Orleans has it all. The most well-known district is the French Quarter, centering on Bourbon Street. This is more a magnet for tourists than for locals and there is everything from strip shows (and more, towards the western end) to bars featuring blues, jazz and Cajun music. Across Esplanade Avenue at the eastern end of the French Quarter is a much more sedate nightlife hotspot - Faubourg Marigny.

Jazz is generally considered to be a New Orleans' creation and the city is constantly buzzing with music. There are dozens of live venues, as well as numerous jazz trumpeters and other buskers on the streets. Bars and clubs throughout the city are permitted to remain open 24 hours and it is one of the few places in the US where alcohol can be consumed on the street provided it is in a plastic container. The legal minimum drinking and gambling age is 21 years. As in most large US cities, the distinction between bars, clubs and live music venues is often blurred.

The daily newspaper Times-Picayune (website: www.nola.com), lists nightlife events - a section on Friday covers the weekend highlights. The monthly publication Offbeat, and the weekly Gambit both are free newspapers with nightlife listings. The monthly New Orleans Magazine (website: www.neworleansmagazine.com) also lists and reviews entertainment in the city. Inside New Orleans (website: http://neworleans.cox.net/cci/entertainment) is an up-to-date and savvy Internet site, while Gambit's affiliated online outfit (website: www.bestofneworleans.com/) also posts weekly nightlife events.

Bars:The Old Absinthe House, 240 Bourbon Street, opened in 1806, may no longer serve absinthe but for a historical artefact it is youthful in atmosphere. The Bombay Club, located in the Prince Conti Hotel, 830 Conti Street, is for those who prefer a more upmarket venue with a little live music, with cocktails served in the wood-panelled interior. Pat O'Briens, 718 St Peter Street, is a New Orleans drinking institution and the place to try the famous and very potent Hurricane cocktail (rum, orange juice, pineapple juice and grenadine).

Napoleon House, 500 Chartres Street, a fantastic French Quarter venue that features the Pimm's Cup, has been around since 1914. The eclectic décor has attracted the likes of Nicolas Cage and Matt Dillon. For the feel of an English gentlemen's club, visit the cigar-friendly Polo Club Lounge at Windsor Court Hotel, 300 Gravier Street. The other-worldly is evident at the candlelit Loa in the International Hotel, 221 Camp Street. It has an 'interactive altar'. New Orleans' finest pianist, John Autin, tickles the ivories at the revolving Carousel Bar in the Montelone Hotel.

Clubs: Jazz clubs are a dime a dozen in this city. Palm Court Jazz Café, 1204 Decatur Street (website: www.palmcourtjazzcafe.com), is a traditional New Orleans jazz club with a mahogany bar and good food. Donna's Bar and Grill, 800 North Rampart Street (website: www.donnasbarandgrill.com), is on the northern edge of the French Quarter and is where locals go to eat, drink and to listen to brass band music. Snug Harbor, 626 Frenchmen Street (website: www.snugjazz.com), in the Faubourg Marigny, is run by vocalist Charmaine Neville and pianist Ellis Marsalis (father of Wynton and Branford); the restaurant, which is separate from the music venue, is renowned for its hamburgers and shrimp Creole.

To dance to sounds other than jazz, clubbers head for Ampersand, 1100 Tulane Avenue (website: www.clubampersand.com), located in a former CBD bank. This is a popular club that attracts a young financial-industry crowd, with its cocktails and the latest in house and techno. Saturday is theme party night with a drink-all-night cover. Listen or dance to music ranges from jazz to Latin at the funky Café Brasil, 2100 Chartres Street. The French Quarter's Oz, Bourbon Street (website: www.ozneworleans.com), is the city's best dance club and attracts a mostly gay clientele.

Live Music:Tipitina's, 501 Napoleon Avenue, Uptown at 233 North Peters Street (website: www.tipitinas.com), is another city institution, featuring music from New Orleans and beyond. Come early and queue for entrance to the legendary Preservation Hall, 726 St Peter Street (website: www.preservationhall.com), where guests sit on the floor, if they must, to catch musicians trained in the 'Louis Armstrong school.' Kerry Irish Pub, 331 Decatur Street (website: www.kerryirishpub.com) features Rites of Passage, a local band. House of Blues, 225 Decatur Street (website: www.hob.com), covers many musical genres, from blues and funk to rock and country. It is now one in a chain of restaurant-clubs, owned in part by comedian Dan Aykroyd, who starred in The Blues Brothers (1980).

Shopping

The French Quarter is one of the main shopping areas, with plenty of unique craft shops, galleries and other stores. The Central Business District (CBD) and Uptown are also good shopping centres. Lots of the souvenirs are based around the city's unique Mardi Gras, with masks, costumes, dolls, photos, paintings and other artefacts. Voodoo items also make rather unusual gifts. For more tasteful items, there are the many antique shops on Royal and Magazine Streets.

The Shops at Jax Brewery is a large mall on the waterfront in the French Quarter. Other shopping centres include the upscale Shops at Canal Place, Riverwalk Marketplace, New Orleans Shopping Center and Lakeside Shopping Center. Magazine Street is a mixture of fashionable and funky shops, hip boutiques and galleries, beginning at Audubon Park and stretching for 10km (6 miles). You can grab a cup of coffee and a pastry at a local cafe before rummaging through antique stores for treasures and trendy boutique purchases, toys and chocolates. Tax-free shopping is available at the Tanger Outlet Center and Louisiana Tax Free Shopping Center.

Markets
Running for several blocks along Decatur and North Peters Streets, the French Market, open daily 0800-1830, is one of the most colourful spots in the city (see Key Attractions). The large covered sheds, built in 1936 as a public works project, house the Farmers' Market, where fresh produce is sold, and the Flea Market, with an assortment of clothes, jewellery, hot sauces and other New Orleans souvenirs.

Shopping hours
French Quarter shops have the longest hours of operation, from Monday to Saturday 1000-2200, though on Sundays many close at 1700. General shopping hours in the city are daily 1000-1700.

Tax information
New Orleans' sales tax is 9.5% and refunds for that percentage of the price of goods purchased in tax-free stores are available to overseas visitors at the international airport's LTFS (Louisiana Tax-Free Shopping) Refund Centre. The LTFS voucher and the sales receipt from the store are required, as well as passport and international air ticket. Refunds under US$500 are paid in cash, otherwise a cheque will be put in the post.

Events

Allstate Sugar Bowl
January
Louisiana Superdome
Website: www.allstatesugarbowl.com

Martin Luther King Jr Parade and Commemorative Event
January
St Claude Avenue

Mardi Gras
Febuary-March
Parades throughout the city, especially in the French Quarter begin about two weeks earlier but end on Mardi Gras.

Tennessee Williams - New Orleans Literary Festival and Writers' Conference
March-April

French Quarter Festival
April
French Quarter
Website: www.frenchquarterfestivals.org

New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival
April-May
Fair Grounds Race Course, 1751 Gentilly Boulevard
Website: www.nojazzfest.com

New Orleans Wine and Food Experience
May
City-wide at more than 75 restaurants and other venues
Website: www.nowfe.com

Tales of the Cocktails
July
Food, music and libations at various venues.

Anniversary Satchmo SummerFest
August
Various venues in the French Quarter
Website: www.frenchquarterfestivals.org

History & Culture

New Orleans is one of the most 'European' cities in America, drawing cultural influences from its early Spanish and French settlers (the Creole) and French migrants, exiled from Nova Scotia in the 18th century - the Cajuns. Further cultural layers are revealed in the Indian and African influences, Dixieland jazz and the rich and terrifying legacy of voodoo, brought to the city by Haitian slaves.

The biggest cultural event in New Orleans is the annual Mardi Gras, celebrated here like nowhere else on earth. Given that the French Quarter is like an ongoing outdoor party any time of year, one can only imagine what it is like when the extravagant floats and costumes are paraded through the streets and the whole world has descended in search of a good time. There are, however, plenty of choices for those in search of more sedate cultural offerings.

Listings are available from the daily newspaper Times-Picayune (website: www.nola.com/entertainment), the free monthly publication Offbeat (website: www.offbeat.com), as well as from free weekly Gambit and the monthly New Orleans Magazine (website: www.neworleansmagazine.com). Inside New Orleans (website: http://neworleans.cox.net/cci/entertainment) is an up-to-date and savvy Internet site, while Gambit's affiliated online outfit (website: www.bestofneworleans.com) also posts weekly cultural events and performances.

Tickets are available for purchase from the venues or from Ticketmaster (tel: (504) 522 5555; website: www.ticketmaster.com), which levies a surcharge per ticket.

Music: The much-lauded Louisiana Philharmonic Orchestra (tel: (504) 523 6530; website: www.lpomusic.com) performs at various venues. The New Orleans Opera Association will be performing at McAlister Auditorium on Tulane University's Uptown Campus, and then at the Mahalia Jackson Theater of the Performing Arts, 801 North Rampart Street, in Armstrong Park (tel: (504) 529 36 00; website: www.neworleansopera.org) when it reopens in January, 2009. This theatre, and the Louisiana Superdome (tel: (504) 587 3663; website: www.superdome.com) located on Sugar Bowl Drive, are two of the several venues that stage large-scale concerts. In addition, the New Orleans Arena, 1501 Girod Street (tel: (504) 587 3663; website: www.neworleansarena.com), is another popular venue for concerts.

Theatre: Numerous theatres throughout the city offer everything from avant-garde works to the classics, with a healthy amount of Tennessee Williams, who lived much of his adult life in the Big Easy. The March Tennessee Williams Festival (tel: (504) 581 1144; website: www.tennesseewilliams.net), usually takes place in the French Quarter but the headquarters is located at Le Petit Théâtre, 616 St Peter Street, French Quarter (tel: (504) 522 2081; website: www.lepetittheatre.com). The theatre claims to be the oldest continuously running community theatre in the USA and shows a range of musicals and drama. Musicals, plays and multimedia events are also staged at the two-auditorium Contemporary Arts Center, 900 Camp Street (tel: (504) 528 3800; website: www.cacno.org).

Dance: The New Orleans Ballet (tel: (504) 522 0996; website: www.nobadance.com) performs from September to May at Tulane University's Dixon Hall. The Mahalia Jackson Theatre of the Performing Arts, 801 North Rampart Street in Armstrong Park (tel: (504) 218 0150) is the usual venue for the ballet and will reopen in January 2009.

Film: The Big Easy is perennially popular as a movie location and some of the better known films shot there are Easy Rider (1969), JFK (1991), Dead Man Walking (1995) and, of course, The Big Easy (1987). Other movies include Passion Fish (1992), Storyville (1992), Interview with a Vampire (1994), The Apostle (1997), Runaway Jury (2003), The Skeleton Key (2005) and in 2006, All the King's Men, Last Holiday and Failure to Launch. For more details, check the website www.filmneworleans.org.

To see these and other movies, there is no shortage of screens. The biggest is the Entergy IMAX Theater in the Aquarium of the Americas, 1 Canal Street (tel: (504) 581 4629 or 1 800 774 7394; website: www.auduboninstitute.org). Canal Place Cinemas, 333 Canal Street (tel: (504) 581 5400), shows first-run films, both art house and mainstream, while real film buffs will of course want to check what's on at The Film Buff's Institute, 6363 St Charles Street (tel: (504) 865 2152; website: www.loyno.edu/filmstudies), which runs during term time at Loyola University, and also shows independent and art house films.

Literary Notes: The first literary note to strike visitors is to see that there really is a streetcar named 'Desire', which prompted the title of the 1947 play by Tennessee Williams. Pulitzer Prize-winning author William Faulkner wrote his first book, Soldier's Pay (1926), while living in New Orleans in the 1920s. Another title inspired by the city is Dinner at Antoine's, the 1948 novel by Frances Parkinson Keyes. It is still possible for one to dine at the restaurant Antoine's, 713 St Louis Street.

Writers Truman Capote (1924-84) and Lillian Hellman (1905-84) were both born in New Orleans, as was the strange and sad writer John Kennedy Toole. Toole committed suicide in 1969, partly because he had been unable to find a publisher for his one great novel, A Confederacy of Dunces, finally posthumously published in 1980.

The most recent literary resident is the 'vampire novelist', Anne Rice, whose fans come from all over the world to see her city. Her best-known work, Interview with the Vampire (1976), was made into a film in 1994. She now lives in California but her New Orleans home, Rosegate, is at the corner of First Street and Chestnut Street in the Garden District.

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