The Place for Government Per Diem Rate Hotels

City Overview

Los Angeles is the USA's second largest city after New York and offers the government traveler plenty of choice when it comes to hotels offering federal per diem rates. It has been called everything from La La Land to Tinseltown but is most commonly known simply as LA.

Sprawling along the Pacific coast of southern California, its coastline stretches 122km (76 miles) from Malibu to Long Beach. Inland, the city fills a vast, flat and once arid basin ringed by the Santa Monica and San Gabriel mountains. Arriving by plane gives a good first impression.

Out of this vast flat grid of streets and buildings rises a cluster of imposing skyscrapers. These mark Downtown, 26km (16 miles) inland from the coast. Northeast is Pasadena. To the west and northwest are Hollywood, Beverly Hills and Century City and the wide San Fernando Valley. To the south is Long Beach. Along the west coast are Santa Monica, Venice Beach and Marina del Rey.

Founded in 1781 by Mexican settlers, over the centuries, LA grew from a cow town to a Gold Rush boomtown to an oil town. In the 1920s, the fledgling film industry decamped from New York in search of sunshine and Hollywood was born. Today, all the major studios are here and the city is the world's undisputed king of film-making.

Disneyland may be the city's major attraction, but LA is also home to world-renowned cultural institutions from the Museum of Contemporary Art to the LA Philharmonic and the stunning Getty Museum.

LA is exuberant - there are few places in the world where the phrase 'Express Yourself' is taken so literally. Hippy health fanatics exist happily alongside some of the most glamorous and wealthy people in the world. Most visitors come to enjoy world-class shops and restaurants, lie on beaches bathed in almost constant sunshine and simply to people watch.

Getting Around

Airport

Los Angeles International Airport (LAX)
Tel: (310) 646 5252.
Website: www.lawa.org

On Santa Monica Bay, just 24km (15 miles) from the city centre, LAX is one of the busiest airports in the world and is particularly important as the US gateway to the Pacific.

Airport facilities: Facilities include foreign exchange and banking services, ATMs, medical and first aid, language assistance and a variety of shops and restaurants. Directions and information can be found at 11 Travelers Aid information centres on the lower level. Car hire is available from all the major operators, including Alamo, Avis, Budget, Enterprise, Hertz, National and Thrifty, as well as many local operators. Business services are available at the ICE Currency Exchange Booth. Wi-Fi is available throughout the airport and kiosks provide Internet access. Public telephones throughout the airport offer Internet data port access.

Transport to the city: Taxis can be found at the lower level - although due to LA's car culture, they're not as common as at other major airports. Nine official taxi companies operate in the city; look for the Taxicab Seal. A fixed fee of US$46.50 applies for trips between LAX and downtown. Several private shuttle services will drop airport passengers at the door of their hotel or other destinations. These include Super Shuttle (tel: 1 800 258 3826; website: www.supershuttle.com), Xpress Shuttle (tel: (310) 323 7222 or 1 800 427 7483; website: www.xpressshuttle.com) and Prime Time Shuttle (tel: (310) 536 7922 or 1 800 733 8267; website: www.primetimeshuttle.com). Charges are reasonable and vary depending on the destination, although shuttles invariably take a lot longer than a taxi.

A free shuttle bus runs between terminals and from the airport to Parking Lot C, where passengers can connect with MTA (tel: 1 800 266 6883; website: www.mta.net) buses, which run to most places in the city. There is also a free shuttle to Aviation Station on the MTA Metro Green Line. Pick-up is on the lower arrival level under the LAX Shuttle sign.

Ontario International Airport (ONT)
Tel: (909) 937 2700.
Website: www.lawa.org

56km (35 miles) east of Downtown Los Angeles, Ontario International is the city's newest airport. It handles international and domestic flights and is the closest airport for the heavily settled Orange County.

Airport facilities: Facilities include information kiosks, ATMs, foreign exchange and a variety of shops and restaurants. Car hire is available from Alamo, Avis, Budget, Dollar, Enterprise, Hertz, National and Thrifty. Wi-Fi is available in all passenger areas of Terminals 2 and 4. There is no business centre at the airport.

Transport to the city: Taxis and several shuttle bus services (see above under LAX) provide transportation throughout the region.

Bob Hope Airport (Burbank-Glendale-Pasadena Airport) (BUR)
Tel: (818) 840 8840.
Website: www.burbankairport.com

Bob Hope Airport is served by seven domestic airlines. It is the closest airport to Downtown LA (20km, or 13 miles, away), Hollywood and the Valley.

Airport facilities: Facilities include shops and restaurants, ATMs and tourist information. Car hire is provided by Alamo, Avis, Hertz and National. There are no business facilities at the airport.

Transport to the city:Metrolink (Monday to Friday only), MTA Bus lines and Amtrak (see Rail) have nearby stations at Burbank and there are free connecting shuttles to/from the airport. The airport is also connected by many MTA bus lines. Taxis are available.

John Wayne Airport (Santa Ana, Orange County)
Tel: (949) 252 5200.
Website: www.ocair.com

67km (42 miles) south of downtown Los Angeles, John Wayne Airport is served by 10 domestic airlines.

Airport facilities: Facilities include shops and restaurants, ATMs and tourist information. On-site car hire is provided by Alamo, Avis, Budget, Enterprise, Hertz, National and Thrifty. There are no business facilities at the airport.

Transport to the city: Taxis, limousines and shuttles (see above under LAX) provide service to the city.

Approximate flight times to Los Angeles: From London is around 10 hours 15 minutes; from New York is 5 hours 30 minutes; from Toronto is 5 hours 30 minutes and from Sydney is 14 hours 30 minutes on non-stop flights.

Trains

National and regional rail services are provided by Amtrak (tel: 1 800 872 7245; website: www.amtrak.com). METROLINK (tel: 1 800 371 5465; website: www.metrolinktrains.com) is the regional rail system for southern California and connects with most cities in the region. The Los Angeles terminal for both is Union Station, at 800 North Alameda Street on the edge of Downtown business. This vast, art deco, Spanish-style building, built in 1939, is an attraction itself. Rail services have shrunk in recent years and tend to be slower than other forms of transport, but facilities include checked baggage, passenger information, waiting rooms and a snack bar. The LAX Flyaway bus service (website: www.lawa.org/flyaway) provides fast, economical travel between the station and the airport.

Rail Services
The Los Angeles terminal is at the western end of major routes across the southern Rockies and is also the southern terminus of the West Coast line to Seattle (Washington). Frequent services go to stations as far south as San Diego. Five main Amtrak trains serve Los Angeles: the Coast Starlight which begins in Seattle; the Pacific Surfliner - San Luis Obispo - Los Angeles - San Diego; Southwest Chief from Chicago; Sunset Limited from Orlando via New Orleans to Los Angeles and the Texas Eagle from Chicago via San Antonio.

By Road

Road travel in California is excellent, with good roads connecting Los Angeles to San Diego, Santa Barbara, Monterey and San Francisco.

Driving in the United States is on the right. For UK nationals, a full UK driving licence is sufficient. Other nationalities are required to have an International Driving Permit but it must be accompanied by a full driving licence from their home country. The minimum driving age in the USA is 16 years.

Speed limits are 40-56kph (25-35mph) in towns, 88kph (55mph) on highways and 105kph (65mph) on freeways, unless otherwise posted. Drivers may turn right at a red light, after stopping, unless there is a sign that prohibits it. A left turn is permitted on red if turning from a one-way street onto another one-way street. Pedestrians have right of way. The wearing of seat belts in a private vehicle is mandatory. Children under six years must be protected in car seats. California has strict laws against drink-driving and driving while intoxicated is cause for arrest and a criminal charge. Drink-driving laws are strictly enforced. The maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio is 0.08%. Open containers of alcoholic beverages are not permitted in vehicles.

The American Automobile Association (AAA) (tel: 1 800 222 1333; website: www.aaa-calif.com) can provide information on driving routes and online maps, and may offer reciprocal benefits to members of automobile clubs in other countries.

Emergency breakdown services
AAA (tel: 1 800 222 4357/AAA HELP).

Between 0630 and 1900, Caltrans (California Department of Transportation) will assist freeway drivers with minor problems. For emergencies dial 911. Call 1 800 427 7623 for current highway conditions.

Routes to the city
Interstate 5 (I-5) connects Los Angeles with Seattle in the north and San Diego in the south. The Pacific Coast Highway (State Highway 1) is a scenic route north along the California coast to Santa Barbara and San Francisco. Los Angeles is linked to Phoenix by I-10, to Las Vegas and Salt Lake City by I-15, and to Oklahoma City and Memphis by I-40.

Coach services
The main Greyhound (tel: (214) 849 8966 or 1 800 231 2222; website: www.greyhound.com) coach station is at 1716 East Seventh Street. Greyhound provides coach services to cities nationwide. Facilities include baggage assistance and snack bar.

By Water

Located in San Pedro Bay, some 20 miles south of downtown Los Angeles, the Port of Los Angeles, 425 South Palos Verdes Street, San Pedro (tel: (310) 732 7678; www.portoflosangeles.org), is one of the world's biggest and busiest seaports. The area includes recreational facilities such as a Maritime Museum, marina, aquarium and the Wilmington Information Center.

Ferry services: The majority of cruise ships head south towards Mexico, although Los Angeles is a stop on sailings to Alaska and other international destinations. There is also the Catalina Express (tel: 1 800 481 3470; www.catalinaexpress.com), which operates a service to Santa Catalina Island (see Excursions).

Local Transport

Public Transport

Despite LA being one of the most car-oriented cities in the world, public transport can be a good way to get around. The Metropolitan Transportation Authority (MTA) (tel: (213) 922 6000 or 1 800 266 6883/COMMUTE; website: www.mta.net) operates one of the largest fleets in the nation - 200 Metro Bus lines (buses) as well as four Metro Rail lines (subway). Due to the size of the city, bus journeys can be time-consuming and may involve changing, but if the subway stops where required, it is a very good option. For example, visitors could be whisked from Downtown to Hollywood in just 12 minutes (add another 10 minutes or so if the train is not at the station).

The Metro Rail system of interconnected subway and light rail tracks covers 62 stations over four lines. The Blue Line connects Downtown Los Angeles and Long Beach. The Green Line runs along the median of Century Freeway and links Norwalk and El Segundo. The Red Line connects Union Station, Downtown LA, Hollywood, Universal City and North Hollywood. The Gold Line runs from Union Station to Pasadena.

A monthly, weekly or Metro Day Pass offers unlimited rides on Metro Bus or Metro Rail, or passengers can buy 10 Metro tokens, which can be used for one-way fares on either bus or rail. Many hotels, local convenience and grocery stores and Metro Customer Centers sell Metro passes and tokens.

Downtown Los Angeles also has its own bus system called DASH. Maps and schedules are available on the bus or from a hotel concierge and signs are posted throughout the Downtown area. DASH is operated by LADOT (tel: 1 800 252 9040; website: www.ladottransit.com).

Taxis

Although taxis are readily available and there are ranks at major hotels, they cannot be hailed on the street. Also, the size of Los Angeles makes them expensive and impractical for cross-town journeys. They are more useful for night journeys within one area. There are nine taxi operators in the city (website: www.taxicabsla.org). Visitors should look for the official Los Angeles Taxicab Seal before getting in, as those without it have no legal authorisation to operate.

If travelling from Beverly Hills, Beverly Hills Cab Company (tel: 1 800 273 6611; website: www.beverlyhillscabco.com) and Independent Taxi Company (tel: 1 800 521 8294/TAXI; website: www.taxi4u.com) are the only companies allowed to travel from there to Los Angeles. Taxis can be booked from: Bell Cab (tel: 1 888 235 5222/BELLCAB; website: www.bellcab.com); Checker Cab (tel: (213) 481 2345) and LA Yellow Cab (tel: 1 877 733 3305; website: www.layellowcab.com). All official taxis charge the same rates.

Driving in the City

The distances between LA's various points can seem intimidating at first, but it is relatively easy to get around by car. However, it is hard to get a sense of compass points so visitors should try to plan their journey in advance and get to know a map of the major highways. Freeways running east-west have even numbers, while those running north-south have odd numbers. Most have a name as well as a number; and it is wise to ask for both when getting directions. The Downtown Visitor Information Center (tel: (213) 689 8822; website: www.lacvb.com) can help.

The freeways are well marked, although very congested, especially during rush hours (0700-0900 and 1600-1900). Using helicopters, local radio stations broadcast frequent traffic reports at 0600-1000 and 1500-1900. Many southern Californian freeways have designated fast lanes for HOV's or High Occupancy Vehicles only (also known as 'car pool') - usually cars carrying more than one person. Visitors should not merge into an HOV lane unless their car has the specified number of passengers, as fines are levied. There are call boxes with free telephones every half-mile along the freeways for emergencies.

There are numerous parking lots and garages throughout the city; prices vary widely. Check garages for early bird specials (before 0900). For on-street parking, however, visitors should read all signs carefully as there is often a complicated system of days or hours when parking is not allowed for street cleaning etc. Illegally parked vehicles are quickly ticketed and may be towed away. A red kerb means no parking; a green kerb allows parking for a limited time; a white kerb is for loading and unloading passengers only. Some streets have metered parking; meters generally take quarters. Meters are generally free after 1800 and on Sundays, but visitors should always check the signs. Many restaurants offer valet parking either free or for a nominal fee; valets should always be tipped US$3-5.

Car Hire

All major car hire companies have offices in the LA area. These include Alamo (tel: 1 800 327 9633; website: www.alamo.com), Avis (tel: 1 800 331 1212; website: www.avis.com), Budget (tel: 1 800 527 0700; website: www.budget.com), Dollar (tel: 1 800 800 4000; website: www.dollar.com), Hertz (tel: 1 800 654 3131; website: www.hertz.com), National (tel: 1 800 227 7368; website: www.nationalcar.com) and Thrifty (tel: 1 800 367 2277; website: www.thrifty.com). Drivers must be at least 25 years of age, depending on company policy. Optional CDW (Collision Damage Waiver) insurance is always recommended if not already covered by the driver's own policy.

Los Angeles Rent-A-Car (tel: (310) 670 9946 or 1 800 441 7368/RENT; website: www.la-rentacar.com) hires to drivers age 21 to 25. Los Angeles loves classic cars; to hire these or any slightly more exotic vehicle, try Beverly Hills Rent A Car (tel: (310) 337 1400 or 1 800 479 5996; website: www.bhrentacar.com).

Bicycle Hire

Away from the freeways, the city is cycling friendly, with designated cycle lanes criss-crossing the city and running along the beachfront. Hollywood Pro Bicycles (tel: (323) 466 5890 or 1 888 775 2453/BIKE; website: www.hollywoodprobicycles.com) is one of a few stores that hires both road and mountain bikes. Perry's Beach Cafe, 2400 and 2600 Oceanfront Walk, Santa Monica (tel: (310) 939 0000; website: www.perryscafe.com), has bike, tricycle and skates for hire and easy access to the bike paths either side of Santa Monica Pier. Bikestation, 105 The Promenade North, Long Beach (tel: (562) 733 0106; website: www.bikestation.org), which links to public transportation and 53km (33 miles) of scenic bike paths, also hires bikes.

EagleRider Motorcycle Rental is located close to LAX Airport at 11860 South La Cienega Boulevard (tel: (310) 536 6777 or 1 800 501 8687; website: www.eaglerider.com) and has motorcycles for hire, including Harley Davidsons, as well as motorcycle guided tours.

General Information

Location

California, western United States.

Time zone

GMT - 8 (GMT - 7 from the second Sunday in March to the first Sunday in November).

Electricity

110 volts AC; standard two-pin plugs are used.

Average January temperatures

14ºC (57ºF).

Average July temperatures

23ºC (73ºF).

Annual rainfall

375mm (14.84 inches).

Things to do

Sightseeing Overview

Shopping and eating may well be two of LA's most popular pastimes, but the city's parks, arts, historic enclaves and shiny new entertainment complexes are all crowd-pleasers. And this old diva is never one to rest on her laurels. 2008 saw the opening of the impressive Broad Contemporary Art Museum, the renovation and expansion of the historic Griffith Park observatory and the creation of the thrilling Simpsons ride at Universal Studios.

The sights of Los Angeles are spread throughout five counties. At off-peak times, the freeways are quick and convenient and it is easy to get around.

Downtown LA comprises the financial district with skyscrapers that seem all the more surprising because the rest of the city is so flat. It is also home to lively local communities with markets (there's the fabled, indoor Grand Central Market for local produce) and shops.

Here are Chinatown, Little Tokyo, the Hispanic centre around Olvera Street (the historic district where the city was founded) with landmarks from the city's early 20th-century heyday, as well as cultural institutions like the Dorothy Chandler Pavilion and Museum of Contemporary Art.

The LA Philharmonic's dramatic Walt Disney Concert Hall is one of the most striking recent additions to the city's cultural and architectural landscape, and is reminiscent of Frank Gehry's other masterpiece, the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao, Spain.

East of Downtown, the city of Pasadena, in the San Gabriel Valley, has a historic centre and two outstanding museums - the Norton Simon and the Huntington. To the west of Downtown is Hollywood, although the actual Hollywood sign is located high above Hollywood Boulevard up in the hills near Griffith Park.

The famous sign is situated on a steep incline, which means that it cannot be visited but the extensive Griffith Park is great for a wander and fantastic panoramas of the whole city. It contains the famous 1935 art deco Griffith Observatory.

Down below in actual Hollywood, the streets and boulevards are less glamorous than their name might suggest and the Hollywood Walk of Fame is fascinating but hardly high class.

There have been successful attempts to upgrade areas, such as Hollywood and Vine, and there is a string of small museums, mostly connected to films; the famous Grauman's Chinese Theatre; some notable if occasionally rundown art deco buildings and, on its northern edge, the popular Universal Studios.

The Westside encompasses trendy, fashionable and primarily gay West Hollywood, rich and handsome Beverly Hills, Miracle Mile, Century City, Westwood Village (where UCLA is situated) and Brentwood. Each has its own atmosphere and attractions. West Hollywood has a glitzy stretch of Sunset Boulevard, with its enormous hand-painted billboards on the sides of buildings, while Rodeo Drive is Beverly Hills' most famous street.

Stretching along the Pacific coast are the Beach Cities, including Santa Monica, Venice Beach, and Marina Del Rey, as well as Malibu to the north and Long Beach, which lies south of Downtown on San Pedro Bay.

Southeast of Downtown is Orange County, home of Disneyland and Knott'sBerry Farm theme parks. To the north is the wide San Fernando Valley, a largely residential area with several film and TV studios.

Tourist Information

Downtown Los Angeles Visitor Information Center 
685 South Figueroa Street, between Wilshire Boulevard and Seventh Street
Tel: (213) 689 8822.
Website: www.discoverlosangeles.com
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0830-1700.

Hollywood Visitor Information Center 
6801 Hollywood Boulevard
Tel: (323) 467 6412.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-2200.

These are the two walk-in visitor information centres in the city. The organisations below also provide information online or by telephone.

Beverly Hills Visitors Bureau
239 South Beverly Drive
Tel: 1 800 345 2210.
Website: www.beverlyhillscvb.com
Opening hours: Daily 0830-1700.

West Hollywood Convention and Visitors Bureau
8687 Melrose Avenue, Suite M-38 West
Tel: (310) 289 2525 or 1 800 368 6020.
Website: www.visitwesthollywood.com
Opening hours: Daily 0830-1800.

Passes

The CityPass (tel: 1 888 330 5008; website: www.citypass.com) allows admission (with a total saving of 50%) to four Hollywood attractions: Starline Movie Star Homes Tours of Hollywood, Red Line Behind-the-Scenes Walking Tours, Hollywood Wax Museum, and a choice of either Kodak Theatre Guided Tour or the Hollywood Museum. It is valid for 30 days from the first use and can be purchased online or from any of the attractions listed. Go LA Card (tel: 617 671 1001 or 866 652 3053; website: www.golosangelescard.com) offers a one to multi-day card for admissions (with a saving of up to 35%) to over 35 attractions.

Attractions

Disneyland
The 50-year-old theme park is still the world's most famous and new attractions are always appearing in the ‘Magic Kingdom'. The park is divided into themed ‘lands' (Main Street USA, Tomorrowland, Adventureland, Frontierland, Fantasyland and Toontown) each with a variety of rides and entertainment. Favourite attractions include the Haunted Mansion, Space Mountain, Star Tours and Indiana Jones Adventure. The fabulous Electrical Parade and night-time laser light show alone are worth the trip.
Located next to Disneyland, Disneyland California Adventure has four theme areas that represent California: pass under the Golden Gate Bridge at Sunshine Plaza, then visit Paradise Pier hyping the glories of seaside piers, Hollywood Pictures Backlot, A bug's land - life from a bug's point of view, and Golden State which celebrates the history and beauty of California. The Twilight Zone Tower of Terror, plunges riders down a 43-m (141-ft) elevator shaft.
1313 Harbor Boulevard, Anaheim
Tel: (714) 781 4565.
Website: www.disney.go.com
Opening hours: Hours vary, check before visiting.
Admission charge.

Knott's Berry Farm
America's oldest theme park began as a tea room in 1928. Later Walter Knott built the ‘Ghost Town' to entertain customers queuing for his wife's boysenberry pies and chicken dinners. Today, shows and attractions are part of its several themed areas, which include an Old West Ghost Town and Camp Snoopy. The real draw is the hair-raising thrill rides - the Silver Bullet, Supreme Scream and Ghost Rider, one of the tallest and longest wooden roller coasters in the West, and the 50s-themed XCELERATOR, with cars that look like '57 Chevys.
8039 Beach Boulevard, Buena Park
Tel: (714) 220 5200.
Website: www.knotts.com
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 1000-1800, Sat 1000-2200, Sun 1000-1900; extended summer and holiday hours. Hours vary with the season, so check before visiting.
Admission charge.

Restaurants

Expensive

Ago 
Pronounced ‘AHHgo', this Tuscan-style restaurant co-owned by Robert de Niro attracts its fair share of stars. The stylish, modern décor is enriched by candlelight and handsome Italian waiters, who dash around on split levels that cause havoc with the acoustics. Brick oven pizzas, bistecca and the porcini mushroom risotto are good main courses. The extensive dessert menu includes a delicious ricotta cheesecake.

8478 Melrose Avenue, West Hollywood
Tel: (323) 655 6333.
Website: www.agorestaurant.com

Campanile
Chef Mark Peel has been creating award-winning dishes here for more than two decades. The remarkable building, commissioned in 1928 by Charlie Chaplin, has graceful arches that connect the elegant dining rooms and atrium courtyard to the central sky-lit room. The menu is modern Mediterranean, with robust flavours, such as beet with pomegranate and cod with eggplant puree. There's a ‘family-style' Monday, and a monthly ‘chef tasting' Wednesday. Closed Sunday evening.

624 South La Brea Avenue, Mid-Wilshire
Tel: (323) 938 1447.
Website: www.campanilerestaurant.com

Noe
There's a strong Asian accent on the food at this top hotel restaurant. Chef Robert Gadsby's innovative cuisine includes delicious, innovative combinations such as Jalapeño scallops, curried cauliflower and basil pesto bass. The six and nine course tastings are highly recommended. An elegant, dimly lit dining room and piano music make this the perfect place for a romantic evening.

The Omni Los Angeles Hotel, 251 South Olive Street
Tel: (213) 356 4100.
Website: www.noerestaurant.com  

Patina
This is LA's haven for gourmets who delight in the assured Californian-French nouvelle cuisine. Exquisite starters, like a duo of foie gras with rhubarb gelée, followed by main courses, such as monkfish with Iberian ham or lamb saddle with fava bean, impress. The fixed-price menus are sublime. The cheese list and wine offerings may be the best in LA. Closed Monday.

141 South Grand Avenue, Downtown
Tel: (213) 972 3331.
Website: www.patinagroup.com

Spago
Chef Wolfgang Puck's flagship restaurant continues to draw LA's rich and famous quite simply because the food is so good. Grandiose entrance doors set the stage for the over-the-top interior décor, with its etched and stained-glass, plus art by the likes of David Hockney. The centrepiece patio, with olive trees and fountain, has the most coveted tables. Fresh fish, seasonal produce, signature dishes such as prime côte de boeuf and melt-in the-mouth pizzas are all excellent. Dinner nightly, lunch Monday to Saturday.

176 North Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills
Tel: (310) 385 0880.
Website: www.wolfgangpuck.com

Cut
Chef, Wolfgang Puck wanted to reinvent the traditional American steakhouse and has done just that. He has also established one of the most successful restaurants (and trendiest) in the city. The sleek and contemporary Cut is tucked away behind the ostentatious lobby of the Four Seasons. But don't be fooled: this is no shrinking violet and tables are hard to come by. You'd be mad not to order steak; but you have to choose between kobe, your favourite cut and a good old burger - all cooked to perfection of course.

Beverly Wilshire Four Seasons Hotel
9500 Wilshire Boulevard, Beverly Hills
Tel: (310) 275 5200.
Website: www.wolfgangpuck.com

Moderate

Angelini Osteria
A wonderful antidote to the calorie controlled menus found in much of California. Rustic Italian fare is created with love and served up to a happy crowd who always seem to come back for more. Authentic dishes range from simple, but wonderfully satisfying spaghetti carbonara, to more exciting specials like Saltimbocca alla Romana - veal slow cooked with prosciutto and sage. The wine list is as fine as the food and the atmosphere.

7313 Beverly Boulevard
(323) 297 0070.
Website: www.angeliniosteria.com

Sona
Sona is, without doubt, one of the best restaurants in LA. The menu is French, with distinctly delicate flavours in dishes that use seasonal produce. Dishes might combine venison and blackberry jelly, served with carrots and vanilla bean and purple potatoes with horseradish. Service succeeds in being both attentive and unpretentious. The degustation menus are both a steal and a treat. Closed Sunday and Monday.

401 North La Cienega Boulevard
Tel: (310) 659 770.
Website: www.sonarestaurant.com

Ca'Brea
This charming restaurant with high ceilings and two tiers is known for Italian food that looks as good as it tastes. The starters, bread, risottos and pasta dishes, such as homemade agnolotti stuffed with veal and prosciutto in a mushroom sauce are particularly recommended. Popular with young lawyers and film industry people, the restaurant gets very crowded in the evening, so reservations are essential. Dinner only on Saturday, closed Sunday.

346 South La Brea Avenue, Midtown
Tel: (323) 938 2863.
Website: www.cabrearestaurant.com

Café des Artistes
This country-style cottage in the heart of Hollywood, run by Jean-Pierre Bosc, is a welcoming spot. The simple French food is cooked to perfection and ranges from starters like Merguez sausages in cumin dip, through to salads and sandwiches, bistro standards like moules-frites or steak-frites, to full main courses, such as a braised lamb shank Provenςal. While the restaurant's hardwood interior is cosy, the charming garden setting of the front and back patios is the most sought-after.

1534 North McCadden Place, Hollywood
Tel: (323) 469 7300.
Website: www.cafedesartistes.info

Chaya Brasserie
This lively restaurant's Mediterranean-meets-Asian-Pacific-New-Wave cuisine, prepared by a Japanese chef, has been luring Los Angelinos for years with its elegant décor, food and staff. Recommended dishes include the lobster ravioli with a pesto cream sauce or the venison with black peppercorns, chestnut purée and champignons. The bar menu, which includes sushi, is cheaper during happy hour (1700-2000) here and in the Venice Beach branch, where the service and décor pale somewhat in comparison.

8741 Alden Drive, West Hollywood/Melrose
Tel: (310) 859 8833.
Website: www.thechaya.com

Other location:
Chaya Venice, 110 Navy Street, Venice
Tel: (310) 396 1179.

The Lobster
From its vantage point at the end of Santa Monica pier, diners can survey much of the ever-changing beach scene through the floor to ceiling glass windows. As you might expect from the name, fish and seafood is the thing here and it's fresher than fresh. Try a starter of ahi carpaccio or a crab cake with ginger and black bean starter followed by a three-peppercorn Hawaiian tuna with wasabi or perhaps a portion of chilli chicken.

1602 Ocean Ave. Santa Monica
Tel: (310) 458 9294.
Website: www.thelobster.com

Saddle Peak Lodge
The name is no gimmick: this restaurant is in a real hunting lodge, high in the hills above Malibu. Come here to escape the LA madness, but do call for directions. Think lots of real wood, fireplaces and no mobile phone reception. It's romantic, but not if you are vegetarian. There's plenty of game; elk, buffalo and antelope are all on the menu, but then so is steak, halibut and lobster. Consider weekend brunch combined with a walk in the countryside.

419 Cold Canyon Road
Tel: (818) 222 3888.
Website: www.saddlepeaklodge.com

BLD
It would be easy to pop in for a perfect breakfast and brunch, linger for lunch and move on to a satisfying supper. This restaurant does all three with aplomb whilst managing to be both sophisticated and comfortable. Mingle with well-heeled Four Seasons guests, discreet business people, and even the odd celebrity, while looking out onto the cornerstones of Rodeo Drive.

7450 Beverly Boulevard
Tel: (323) 930 9744.
www.bldrestaurant.com

Hatfields
There is a hushed calm to the interior of Hatfields befitting this operation that takes its food very seriously indeed. The husband and wife team (him: savoury; her: sweet) is responsible for a menu that consistently uses fresh produce. Expect mains along the lines of pan-roasted duck breast, with quinoa and mitake mushrooms, butternut squash and a whiskey prune sauce. The wine list is small, yet perfectly formed. Closed Sunday.

7458 Beverly Boulevard.
Tel: (323) 935 2977.
Website: www.hatfieldsrestaurant.com

Joe's Restaurant
This crisp, stylish restaurant is renowned for light yet imaginative food. Breads come with a superb olive tapenade. A changing menu offers creative cuisine like New Zealand salmon with mushrooms, polenta and citrus-soy emulsion or goat's cheese cake for dessert. Brunch is recommended.

1023 Abbot Kinney Boulevard, Venice
Tel: (310) 399 5811.
Website: www.joesrestaurant.com

The Palm
Steaks and giant lobsters are the draw here at this bustling chain. Hand-drawn caricatures on the walls (the Palm's signature décor) date back to the 1920s when the original restaurant was on Second Avenue in New York. Portions are large, but be sure to save room for the creamed spinach in garlic oil and the New York cheesecake. Service is excellent.

9001 Santa Monica Boulevard, West Hollywood
Tel: (310) 550 8811.
Website: www.thepalm.com

Roy's
A chain restaurant with a Hawaiian-fusion menu, minimalist décor and delicious food. Roy's Canoe starters are a changing sampling of such tasty treats as shrimp sticks, baby back ribs, ahi poke and pork and seafood potstickers. Roy's Classic Roasted Macadamia Nut Mahi Mahi with lobster butter sauce is a taste sensation. The prix fixe menu provides an excellent seasonal selection.

800 South Figueroa Street
Tel: (213) 488 4994.
Website: www.roysrestaurant.com

Other location:
1100 South Flower Street, Los Angeles
Tel: (213) 764 600.

Woo Lae Oak
This traditional Korean barbecue offers one of LA's best ethnic cuisines in an authentic atmosphere. Marinated meats and exotic vegetables are grilled at each table. Meals come with a choice of one of 30 kimchis (Korean spicy pickled cabbage) and soup. The Beverly Hills branch caters to an American business crowd with a more upmarket ambience.

170 North La Cienega Boulevard, Beverly Hills
Tel: (310) 652 4187.
Website: www.woolaeoakbh.com

Cheap

El Cholo
In 1927, El Cholo was the first Mexican restaurant in LA; today, this chain is an excellent value option for families and large groups. The walls, decorated with colourful Mexican trinkets, add to the lively atmosphere. Specialities include blue corn chicken enchiladas and green corn tamales (available May-October only). The flan is also excellent and the margaritas reliably good. There is a branch in Santa Monica.

1121 South Western Avenue, Midtown
Tel: (323) 734 2773.
Website: www.elcholo.com

Other location:
1025 Wilshire Boulevard, Santa Monica
Tel: (310) 899 1106.

Lula
This Mexican cantina is named after chef Lula Bertran (culinary guru to the restaurant's well-known Irish owner Gerri Gilliland) who also owns Santa Monica's authentic Irish pub, Finn McCools. An oasis on Santa Monica's main street, the bright décor and garden patio are the backdrop for top-notch margaritas and regional specialities like lobster taquitos. The flan and churros (Mexican donuts) are musts for dessert.

2720 Main Street, Santa Monica
Tel: (310) 392 5711.
Website: www.gerrigilliland.com

Mishima
This bright, spacious, modern noodle restaurant offers cheap and delicious Japanese food to a smart Asian clientele and discerning Westerners. Recommendations include fresh swordfish, sweet potato purée, marinated seaweed, seared tuna salad with wasabe dressing or nabeyaki udon soup with spinach, mushrooms, shrimp, chicken, egg and fishcake.

8474 West Third Street, Beverly Hills
Tel: (323) 782 0181.
Website: www.mishima.com

Newsroom Café
Vegans and the health-conscious will embrace this large bohemian cafe, complete with designer wall lighting and outdoor patio, which offers veggie burgers, salads and fresh fruit smoothies. Weight watchers who love desserts will be especially at home, as the ‘fat-free' desserts include marble cake, apple cake and fresh fruit cornbread cobbler with vanilla ice cream. There is another branch in Santa Monica.

120 North Robertson Boulevard, West Hollywood/Melrose
Tel: (310) 652 4444.

Other location:
530 Wilshire Boulevard, Santa Monica
Tel: (310) 319 9100.

Out Take Bistro
This small, modern yet cosy cafe full of aspiring actors and musicians offers a creative menu of bistro favourites, imaginative salads and pasta dishes. The homemade borscht, served hot or cold, is an original Armenian recipe from the owner's mother. The staff are friendly and the prices are reasonable. Free parking available.

11929 Ventura Boulevard
Tel: (818) 760 1111.
Website: www.outtakebistro.com  

Capri
The minimalist white décor, with Bauhaus-style chairs and black leather booths, is accentuated by romantic candle chandeliers and elegant twinkling lights, and offers a varied wine list and attentive service. This will appeal to everyone. The pumpkin ravioli with sage and pine nuts justifies its fame but the starters, such as the warm herbed goat's cheese with greens, are noteworthy, as is the tarte tatin.

1616 Abbot Kinney Boulevard, Venice
Tel: (310) 392 8777.

Typhoon
For those who love adventure, this modern Pacific Rim restaurant is a must. Not only is its location (above a runway at Santa Monica airport with neon-lit night views) precarious, but its menu will terrify the timid. Starting out tamely enough with items like coconut soup, pork spare ribs and roasted aubergine, it cuts to the chase with stir-fried crickets, Chambai ants and white sea worms. Yes, the real thing - and they are surprisingly delicious. There are also less unusual spicy fish and meat dishes. Closed for lunch Saturday.

3221 Donald Douglas Loop South (between Centinela Avenue and 23rd Street), Santa Monica
Tel: (310) 390 6565.
Website: www.typhoon.biz

Night Life

As the world's showbiz capital, Los Angeles attracts both new and established talent, across the fields of cabaret, jazz, rock and blues and country and western. Nightclubs around town offer a mix of live bands and recorded music, and the city is home to some of the most vibrant comedy clubs in the USA.

Sunset Boulevard (with its famous ‘Sunset Strip') still boasts some of the city's most famous clubs but is by no means the only hotspot. Other good nightlife areas are Santa Monica, especially along Third Street Promenade; Hollywood and West Hollywood, the latter a centre for gay nightlife. Pine Avenue in Long Beach and Pasadena's Old Town also have a good number of jazz clubs and other night spots. Admission prices for clubs and live music vary widely according to the entertainment. Entertainment listings can be found in LA Weekly (website: www.laweekly.com), a free paper distributed around town. Because of LA liquor laws, bars stop serving at 0200. The minimum drinking age is 21 years. Anyone who looks under 40 years old should carry photo ID - it's probable that you'll have to show it on the door. There is no smoking inside any public place in Los Angeles and this includes bars and nightclubs. However, many do offer outdoor areas where smoking is permitted.

Bars: Starting with the Sunset Strip, the Rainbow Bar & Grill, 90015 Sunset Boulevard, attracts the music industry and is known as the hair-metal drinking spot of the 1980s. The SkyBar, at the Philippe Starck-designed Mondrian Hotel, 8440 Sunset Boulevard, may be trading on its reputation for attracting LA's beautiful people, but it still has a great view and the same air of glamour that pervades the whole hotel chain. Occupying a former nursing home at 8300 Sunset Boulevard, the hotel bar of the Standard is less exclusive than Skybar, but equally popular. Still on the Strip, make sure you stop off at the Sunset Tour Hotel. In this splendid 1920s building at number 8358, the authentic art deco lounge bar extends out into the pool area complete with statues of pink flamingos. The Cat'N Fiddle is an English-style bar with courtyard and fountain, at 6530 Sunset Boulevard. Two other good choices are Spider Club at 1737 Vine Street and the Velvet Margarita Cantina, a late night trendy Mexican lounge, 1612 North Cahuenga Boulevard, both in Hollywood.

For LA gay life, try any bar along Santa Monica Boulevard in West Hollywood, including the reliable Gold Coast at number 8228, or the crazy Fubar at number 7994, with drag queens and bingo nights. The biggest are probably Rage at number 8911, Circus Disco at 6655 (website: www.circusdisco.com), and Micky's at 8857. In this boys' paradise, there is a haven for lesbians at Palms, 8572 Santa Monica (website: www.thepalmsbar.com). For a mixed, hipper crowd, try Akbar, 4356 West Sunset Boulevard (website: www.akbarsilverlake.com) or here, 696 North Robertson Boulevard (website: www.herelounge.com).

The Observation Bar, aboard the RMS Queen Mary in Long Beach, is an art deco joy - a great place for a romantic martini while the sun sets. In the same area, the Rock Bottom Brewery, 1 Pine Avenue, is a good place to try handmade beers brewed on the premises. Downtown, the best views of the skyscrapers can be had from the revolving cocktail bar, BonaVista at Westin Bonaventure Hotel, 404 South Figueroa Street. With souvenir glasses, floor to ceiling windows and piped music, it's all very 1980s but hard to beat. Also Downtown, The Roof Bar at The Standard, 550 South Flower Street, is a very stylish place to check out the skyline.

Clubs: Serious clubbers will find the LA scene a little on the soft side compared to NYC and London (the 0200 curfew doesn't help), and the emphasis tends to be on looking cool and spending large, rather than dancing hard to name DJs. For serious style, long queues and sexy moves (including semi-naked dancers on glass-encased podiums), try Deep, 1707 Vine Street, on the corner of Hollywood and Vine Streets (website: www.deep-la.com). Area, 643 North La Cienega Boulevard is a swish joint with banquette seating and a spacious dancefloor. The infamous Viper Room, 8852 Sunset Boulevard (website: www.viperroom.com), owned by Johnny Depp, is a small, dark, hip hangout for rock musicians and groupies, although its club nights tend to be more funk and disco.

In Santa Monica, Gotham Hall, 1431 Third Street Promenade (website: www.gothamhall.com), with its clubby look and bustling billiards hall, is populated by pretty boys and girls. The sophisticated Club Cohiba, 110 East Broadway (website: www.cohibalongbeach.com), Long Beach, features a cigar and billiard room, a Martini lounge and a rooftop terrace. Swing-dancing is making a comeback in LA and the Derby, 4500 Los Feliz Boulevard, is the best place to jive - also featured in the film Swingers.

A former 1920s speakeasy Boardner's, 1652 North Cherokee Avenue, Hollywood (website: www.boardners.com), is home to the B52 Club where dancers grind to everything from goth to funk to erotica. Run by the same man (Ivan Kane) as Deep is Forty Deuce, 5574 Melrose Avenue (website: www.fortydeuce.com), a sultry cabaret-style lounge-bar, complete with burlesque. A bit further out in Santa Monica, but equally good, is The Space, at 2020 Wilshire Boulevard.

Comedy: The Comedy Store, 8433 West Sunset Boulevard (website: www.thecomedystore.com), is a good starting point as it features three rooms, which offer a variety of acts, from mainstream to fledgling. In the past, it has seen the arrival of people like Robin Williams, David Letterman, Whoopi Goldberg and Gary Shandling. The Laugh Factory, 8001 West Sunset Boulevard (website: www.laughfactory.com), is a smaller venue where you may see famous names, like Neal Brennan or Rodney Dangerfield, testing out their routines. Groundlings 7307 Melrose Avenue in West Hollywood (website: www.groundlings.com) is another premier venue where several Saturday Night Live members (Laraine Newman for example) got their start.

Live Music: The House of Blues, 8430 West Sunset Boulevard (website: www.hob.com), features not just top blues performers, but everything from heavy metal to hip hop and folk music. Harvelle's, 1432 Fourth Street, in Santa Monica (website: www.harvelles.com) is another good spot for blues.

Top jazz entertainers perform at the packed Catalina Bar & Grill, 6725 West Sunset Boulevard (website: www.catalinajazzclub.com). Booking is essential. Another good spot, the Jazz Bakery, 3233 Helms Boulevard in Culver City (website: www.jazzbakery.com), offers up world-class music most nights of the week. For something a little quirky, head to TheDresden, all white leather upholstery and cork walls, at 1760 North Vermont Avenue (website: www.thedresden.com). Resident jazz performers Marty and Elayne attract a mix of in-the-know movie buffs (the lounge featured in Swingers) and fans who just appreciate the music and cocktails.

Two venerable rock clubs, hosting fairly mainstream acts, are The Roxy (website: http://theroxyonsunset.com) and Whisky A Go-Go (website: www.whiskyagogo.com) at 9009 and 8901 West Sunset Boulevard. The Staples Center, 1111 South Figueroa Street (website: www.staplescenter.com), is the venue for mega-concerts and events such as the Grammy Awards. Located nearby is the 7,100-seater NOKIA Theatre, 777 Chick Hearn Court (website: www.nokiatheatrelalive.com), which also hosts well-known bands and award shows. TheCowboy Palace, 21635 Devonshire Street, Chatsworth (website: www.cowboypalace.com) is the undisputed king of the city's country music clubs, and patrons can even sing up for lessons to keep up with the latest dance crazes.

Shopping

The most famous shopping street in Los Angeles is Rodeo Drive off Wilshire Boulevard in Beverly Hills. Those without hefty bank balances can still go window-shopping at jewellery stores like Harry Winston and Tiffany's or the flagship stores of all the designer names, from Gucci to Tommy Hilfiger. At the end of Rodeo Drive are larger department stores, such as Barney's and Saks.

Not far away is the Beverly Center, that continues to be popular with celebrities, and Century City Shopping Center an outdoor shopping plaza; both with branches of Macy's and Bloomingdale's, as well as speciality shops.

For eight blocks from Coldwater Canyon to Laurel Canyon, in Studio City, Ventura Boulevard offers concentrated boutique shopping, including home decorating stores and exclusive designer outlets. Stacey Todd sells modern classic home, women's and men's wear to appreciative shoppers. Ventura Boulevard also has an enticing selection of restaurants.

Markets
Next to the famous Farmers Market (Third and Fairfax Streets) is The Grove. The upscale centre, with fashionable boutiques and department stores like Barney's and Nordstrom, has its fair share of favourite American high street stores, like Banana Republic and Gap.

Westwood Village, adjacent to the UCLA campus, is a low-key shopping center. Its range of inexpensive shops sell practical items such as electronics, books and groceries, as well as clothes. Melrose Avenue, between Highland Avenue and Doheny Drive, is lined with 20th-century antique shops and trendy fashion boutiques like Red Balls at 7365, featured in the opening credits of the TV show Melrose Place. La Brea Avenue, off Melrose Avenue, has more hip boutiques and vintage clothing stores, including the huge American Rag at 150. The Silver Lake area, on the border of Los Feliz and Hollywood (Vermont Avenue and Sunset Boulevard), is dubbed the 'Soho of LA'. It has stalls and boutiques selling stylish vintage and retro clothing.

Santa Monica's Third Street Promenade is a pedestrianised mall that runs for several blocks and is lined with shops and outdoor cafes. At one end is Santa Monica Place, an indoor mall with department stores and boutiques. Fashion shopping can be found nearby on Montana Avenue, between Seventh and 17th Streets.

Downtown has various shopping complexes and gallerias, including the highly recommended Grand Central Market on South Broadway, offering a cornucopia of fresh foods, fruits and vegetables. In the Jewelry District (Hill Street between West Fifth and West Seventh Streets), visitors can find good bargains. The Fashion District is a real shopping experience - a 90-block mix of wholesalers, manufacturers and retailers selling discounted merchandise.

The kitsch shops along Hollywood Boulevard are best for fun souvenirs. The Hollywood & Highland Center, a shopping and entertainment centre, houses the Kodak Theatre (the Academy Awards venue) and a host of shops.

Shopping hours
Shopping hours are generally 0900-1800 although malls will close at 2100/2200. Sales tax of 8.25% is not reclaimable.

Events

Tournament of Roses Parade and the Rosebowl
January
Floral processions, marching bands and American Football.
Pasadena
Website: www.tournamentofroses.com

Annual Golden Dragon Parade
February
Chinatown
Website: www.lagoldendragonparade.com

Black History Month
February
Various locations

St. Patricks Day Parade
March
Downtown
Website: http://lafd.org/stpats.htm

Toyota Grand Prix
April
Long Beach
Website: www.longbeachgp.com

LA Times Book Festival
April
UCLA
Website: www.latimes.com/events

Annual In-Water Boat Show
May
Marina Del Rey

Annual Mariachi USA Festival
June
Hollywood Bowl
Website: www.mariachiusa.com

Gay Pride Month
June
Events and locations across the city

Twilight Dance Series
June-August
Free concerts.
Santa Monica Pier
Website: www.twilightdance.org

Independence Day
July
Throughout the city

Watts Summer Festival (Afro-American cultural events)
August
Various locations
Website: www.wattsfestival.org

Los Angeles County Fair
September
Pomona Fairgrounds
Website: www.lacountyfair.com

Tarfest
October
Film and music festival centred on the La Brea tar pits.
Miracle Mile
Website: www.tarfest.com 

Halloween Carnival
October
West Hollywood
Website: www.visitwesthollywood.com

Hollywood Christmas Parade
November
Hollywood

History & Culture

Los Angelenos are often pictured as cultural lightweights, obsessed with TV and the movies, but as in any multicultural metropolis, there is a diverse and thriving cultural scene that encompasses music, theatre, dance and opera. The city's leading light is the Performing Arts Center of Los Angeles County otherwise known as Music Center, 135 North Grand Avenue (tel: (213) 972 7211; website: www.musiccenter.org). In the heart of Downtown, Music Center is made up of four separate venues: the Dorothy Chandler Pavilion (host for many years to the Oscars ceremony), the Mark Taper Forum, Ahmanson Theater and the Walt Disney Concert Hall, 111 South Grand Avenue (tel: (323) 850 2000; website: www.laphil.com).

The best source of up-to-date information on cultural events is Discover Los Angeles (tel: (213) 624 7300; www.discoverlosangeles.com). Tickets can be purchased from Ticketmaster (tel: (213) 480 3232; website: www.ticketmaster.com). Other agencies that handle concert, sport and theatre tickets include Musical Chairs (tel: (310) 207 7070 or 1 800 659 1702; website: www.musicalchairstickets.com), Al Brooks Theatre Ticket Agency (tel: (213) 626 5863 or 1 800 341 2766; website: www.albrooks.com) and VIP Tickets (tel: 1 800 328 4253; website: www.viptickets.com).

Music: The Los Angeles Philharmonic Orchestra (website: www.laphil.org) is one of the best in the world and performs at the Walt Disney Concert Hall (see above), as does the Los Angeles Master Chorale (tel: (213) 972 7282; website: www.lamc.org). The Los Angeles Opera (tel: (213) 972 8001; website: www.losangelesopera.com) performs at the Dorothy Chandler Pavilion (see above). Chamber music and performances by distinguished alumni can be heard at the Zipper Concert Hall at the Colburn School of Performing Arts, 200 South Grand Avenue (tel: (213) 621 2200; website: www.colburnschool.edu). The classic summer venue to hear music outdoors is the Hollywood Bowl, 2301 Highland Avenue (tel: (323) 850 2000; website: www.hollywoodbowl.com), with concerts by the Los Angeles Philharmonic, as well as jazz and pop artists.

Theatre: The Ahmanson Theater (see above) stages large classical productions. Smaller and more adventurous productions take place in the Mark Taper Forum, a theatre-in-the-half-round, also at Music Center.

The Geffen Playhouse, 10886 Le Conte Avenue (tel: (310) 208 5454; website: www.geffenplayhouse.com) stages classical and contemporary plays in a historic building in Westwood Village. The Pantages Theater, 6233 Hollywood Boulevard (tel: (323) 468 1770; website: www.broadwayla.org) is an outstanding art deco theatre that hosts Broadway musicals and concerts, while the Pasadena Playhouse, 39 South El Molino Avenue (tel: (626) 356 7529/PLAY; website: www.pasadenaplayhouse.org) is an incredible 1925 Spanish Colonial Revival building. The Ford Amphitheater, 2580 Cahuenga Boulevard (tel: (323) 461 3673; website: www.fordamphitheater.org) is a 1200-seat outdoor space, where works by contemporary playwrights, as well as music, dance and film events take place.

LA Stage Alliance, 644 South Figueroa Street (tel: (213) 614 0556; website: www.theatrela.org), is an association of some 150 theatres; services include LAStageTIX, a half-price day-of-the-show ticket outlet.

Dance: The Joffrey Ballet Company (tel: (312) 739 0120; website: www.joffrey.com) has its main west-coast season in the spring at Music Center (see above). The UCLA Center for the Arts, 4405 North Hillgard, Westwood (tel: (310) 825 2101; website: www.uclalive.org), is the venue for touring dance troupes, as well as the UCLA Dance Company.

Film: The historic Grauman's Chinese Theatre, 6925 Hollywood Boulevard (tel: (323) 464 8111; website: www.manntheatres.com/chinese), presents first-run movies. El Capitan Theatre, 6838 Hollywood Boulevard (tel: (323) 467 7674 or 1 800 347 6396; website: http://disney.go.com/disneypictures/el_capitan), also screens first-run films.

The Egyptian Theatre, 6712 Hollywood Boulevard (tel: (323) 461 2020; website: www.egyptiantheatre.com), shows foreign films and documentaries in Hollywood's oldest restored cinema. Only in Hollywood would you find The Silent Theatre, 611 North Fairfax Avenue (tel: (323) 655 2520; website: www.silentmovietheatre.com) screening only movies from the pre-talkie era. The Pacific Theatres Cinerama Dome, 6360 West Sunset Boulevard (between Vine and Ivar Streets, with DeLongpre to the south) (tel: (323) 464 4226; website: www.arclightcinemas.com), has been refurbished in keeping with its late 1950s architecture and turned into the centrepiece of a three-level entertainment and retail centre, with 15 screens and shops and restaurants.

As for films that are shot in the city, it would be easier to compile a list of those that weren't. Films that capture various different moods of LA include Billy Wilder's Sunset Boulevard (1950), starring Gloria Swanson, and more recently Swingers (1996), LA Confidential (1997) and Colors (1998).

Literary Notes: Los Angeles has inspired many writers and served as the setting for their books and novels. Nathanael West (1903-1940) lived in Hollywood from 1933; his novel The Day of the Locust (1939) is considered one of the best about Los Angeles. The Loved One (1948) by Evelyn Waugh and After Many a Summer Dies the Swan (1938) by Aldous Huxley were both set in LA. F Scott Fitzgerald's The Last Tycoon (1941-), his final unfinished masterpiece, was also set in LA.

LA has attracted many detective writers over the years. Raymond Chandler (1888-1959) lived in LA, and his most famous character, Philip Marlowe, explores the dark side of the city, in such novels as The Big Sleep (1939) and Farewell My Lovely (1940). Raymond Chandler's Los Angeles by Elizabeth Ward and Alain Silver is an enlightening look at the author's relationship with the city. Another detective writer James Ellroy was born in LA in 1948 and the city inspired his LA Quartet of novels - Clandestine (1982), Black Dahlia (1987), LA Confidential (1990) and White Jazz (1992). William Harrington created another LA detective, Columbo (not from TV). Some novels in the series include The Helter Skelter Murders (1994), The Hoffa Connection (1995) and The Game Show Killers (1996).

Other novels about LA include Joan Didion's Play It As It Lays (1970), Alison Lurie's The Nowhere City (1965), Walter Mosley's Black Betty (1994) and William Penn's The Absence of Angels (1995).

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