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City Overview

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Fuelled by the car manufacturing boom of the last decade, Detroit is a city bouncing back from its backward image with thriving arts, music and culture scenes. Once thought of as a dark and depressing industrial town, the ‘Motor City' is reinventing itself with relaxing parks, hot nightclubs and a regenerated downtown district. Music has always been at the heart of Detroit. This is the city where Motown was born, with artists like Marvin Gaye, The Supremes, Stevie Wonder and Smokey Robinson all cutting records here. More recently, Eminem emerged from the infamous 8 Mile trailer park to become a global superstar, while techno music keeps the clubs jumping well into the morning.

The residents who fled to the suburbs during the civil unrest of the 1960s are slowly returning to Downtown Detroit. Here they can enjoy the vibrancy of Greektown's bars and restaurants, pleasant strolls along Detroit River and ice hockey or baseball at Detroit's two new sport stadiums. With all this development, it's important to Detroiters not to lose a sense of their history. It is after all the oldest city in the Midwest, and already a national centre for African-American history. Whatever the future may hold for Detroit, it still represents the best of the American dream: Dreams made, dreams lost and dreams built again.

Getting Around

Airport

Detroit Metropolitan Wayne County Airport (DTW)
Tel: (734) 247 7678/AIRPORT.
Website: www.metroairport.com

Detroit Metropolitan airport is located 32km (20 miles) southwest of the city centre.

Airport facilities: These include duty-free shops, banks, ATMs, restaurants, gift shops, bars, a tourist information centre and car hire (Alamo, Avis, Dollar, Hertz, National and Thrifty). The airport offers Wi-Fi service throughout the terminal complex, and phones are conveniently located in all terminals.

Transport to the city: The Four-Mile Access Road connects the airport with I-94, and the McNamara terminal with I-275. A taxi service is available from Metro Airport Taxis (tel: 1 800 745 5191; website: www.metroairporttaxi.org), with journeys into Downtown Detroit costing about US$40. A more luxurious service is offered by Metro Cars (tel: 1 800 456 1701). A non-stop journey into the city centre should take about 20 minutes when traffic is clear and up to one hour during rush hour.

Several buses connect Downtown Detroit with the airport. Routes 125, 190, 202 and 280 all depart from the Smith terminal, while route 125 leaves from the McNamara terminal.

Coleman A Young International Airport (DET)
Tel: (313) 628 2166.
Website: www.ci.detroit.mi.us/airport

The airport (formerly Detroit City Airport) is located 16km (10 miles) from Downtown Detroit and services primarily private and corporate air traffic to nearby cities, such as New York, Newark, Baltimore and Indianapolis.

Airport facilities: These include a restaurant, a gift shop and car hire services (Enterprise, Hertz and National). There are no business facilities at the airport.

Transport to the city: A taxi to the city centre costs approximately US$15.

Approximate flight times to Detroit: From London is 7 hours; from New York is 2 hours; from Los Angeles is 4 hours 15 minutes; from Toronto is 1 hour; and from Sydney is 17 hours.

Trains

Amtrak (tel: 1 800 872 7245/USA RAIL; website: www.amtrak.com) operates decent inter-city rail services from Detroit Amtrak Station, 11 Baltimore Avenue West, which is located towards the northern end of the city's Downtown. Facilities are basic but include telephones, toilets and car hire.

Rail Services
Detroit is directly connected with Cleveland and Chicago (journey time - 7 hours). Other cities, such as Washington, New York and Los Angeles are accessible via Chicago and Cleveland, although the considerable journey time limits the practicality of such a journey.

By Road

Cars are a way of life in Michigan, perhaps even more than any other US state - after all, Detroit is known as the 'Motor City'. The state is covered by an extensive network of freeways and highways. Multi-lane freeways, which have a maximum speed limit of 113kph (70mph), are distinguished by a thick line on maps. Highways may be more than two lanes but are marked by thinner lines and have a maximum speed limit of 89kph (55mph). All freeways and highways are named according to numerical convention. Traffic drives on the right and seat belts must be worn at all times. The minimum driving age is 16 years. Proof of insurance is compulsory and foreign drivers must possess a licence from their country of origin. The maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio for driving is 0.08%.

Emergency breakdown services
The American Automobile Association (AAA) (tel: 1 800 222 6424).

Routes to the city
Major freeways connecting Detroit with its suburbs and beyond include: I-75, which connects to Ohio in the south and to Flint in the north; I-94, which connects with Ann Arbor and Kalamazoo to the west and Sarnia to the northeast; and I-96, which connects with Lansing and Grand Rapids to the west. The Detroit-Windsor Tunnel is a toll tunnel connecting Detroit with Windsor, Ontario, Canada, which is just to the north.

Coach services
Greyhound (tel: 1 800 231 2222; website: www.greyhound.com) operates regular inter-city services out of the Detroit Greyhound Bus Terminal (tel: (313) 961 8011), 1001 Howard Avenue. Facilities include vending machines, toilets, lockers and tourist information. Charter coach services can also be hired from Greyhound (tel: 1 800 454 2487).

By Water

Detroit is a major port, connected to the Atlantic Ocean via the Great Lakes-St Lawrence Seaway. Passenger traffic is gaining popularity in the Port of Detroit but service is erratic and there is, as yet, no designated facility to handle passengers arriving by ship, although there are intentions to construct one in the future.

Local Transport

Public Transport

A dependable public bus service is operated by the Detroit Department of Transportation (DDOT) (tel: (313) 933 1300 or 1 888 336 8287; website: www.ci.detroit.mi.us/ddot/default.htm) within the city centre. The service operates 24 hours a day, every day. Buses run as frequently as every six minutes during rush hour on some routes and about every 20 minutes at other times of the day. A weekly pass is available. Free transfers are allowed and can be used to change up to two buses.

SMART buses (tel: 1 866 962 5515; website: www.smartbus.org) service the suburbs. Major routes begin operating around 0500 and terminate after midnight. Transfers allow passengers to board a DDOT bus as well. There is also a monthly pass for both companies.

A light rail system, called the People Mover (tel: 1 313 224 2160; website: www.thepeoplemover.com), navigates a 4.5km (3-mile) elevated single track surrounding Detroit's Downtown business district, Monday to Thursday 0630-2400, Friday 0630-0200, Saturday 0900-0200 and Sunday 1200-2400. You can purchase a monthly pass but tickets are not transferable to buses. Check out the mosaic tile designs that have been added to make stations more relaxing.

Taxis

Taxis operate 24 hours a day. In more remote locations, taxi services can be ordered by telephone from companies like Checker (tel: (313) 963 7000) and Yellow Cab (tel: (313) 961 3333). Tipping is not very common for standard journeys.

Driving in the City

Traffic is heaviest in Detroit around rush hour (0730-0930 and 1630-1900), as workers fill the Downtown area in the morning and hurry away in the evening. The freeways that connect the city centre with the outlying suburbs can become particularly congested. The city is laid out on a conventional grid system; however, this is sometimes compromised by the meandering shoreline of the Detroit River and Lake St Clair. The most important streets Downtown are Woodward Avenue and Jefferson Avenue.

Car Hire

Many car hire firms operate in Detroit, including Avis (tel: (313) 962 2004 or (313) 963 1483; website: www.avis.com); Budget (tel: (734) 941 3632; website: www.budget.com); Dollar (tel: (866) 434 2226 or 1 800 800 3665; website: www.dollar.com); Enterprise (tel (313) 259 3946 or (313) 393 2344; website: www.enterprise.com); and National (tel: (734) 941 7000 or 1 800 227 7368; website: www.nationalcar.com).

Drivers must be 21 years or older and drivers under 25 may have to pay a surcharge with certain firms. Foreign drivers must possess a valid national licence, however, it is always advisable to check in advance with the car hire firm in case an International Driving Permit is required. Insurance is available from the car hire firm.

Bicycle Hire

Cycling in Detroit is becoming more popular and is relatively easy in this flat city. Wheelhouse Detroit (tel: (313) 656 2453; website: www.wheelhousedetroit.com) hire out bikes to explore the 'Motor City', as well as offering guided biking tours around the riverfront and parks.

General Information

Location

Michigan, USA.

Time zone

GMT - 5 (GMT - 4 from the second Sunday in March to the first Sunday in November).

Electricity

110 volts AC, 60Hz; flat round two-pin plugs are standard.

Average January temperatures

- 5°C (23°F).

Average July temperatures

22°C (72°F).

Annual rainfall

1,030mm (41 inches).

Things to do

Sightseeing Overview

Downtown Detroit is undergoing a rapid transformation, and is increasingly becoming a cultural hot spot. Nestled near the riverfront is the Joe Louis Arena, home of the Detroit Red Wings hockey team, the Cobo Conference Exhibition Center, which houses the Michigan Sports Hall of Fame, and the Renaissance Center, which houses the world headquarters of General Motors.

Move slightly to the north and visitors can experience the heart of the Downtown area, with numerous casinos, museums and galleries, not least the historic Detroit Opera House. To the east is Greektown, which is the lively setting for numerous Greek restaurants and bars. This is where Downtowner's come to eat, drink, relax and in some cases, sing a bit of karaoke. 

The culture hounds head to Woodward Avenue, with its plethora of monuments and theatres, as well as up-market clubs and bars. 

Cutting through it all is the meandering Detroit River, which separates the US from Canada.

Tourist Information

Metropolitan Detroit Convention and Visitors Bureau
Suite 1000, 211 West Fort Street
Tel: 1 800 338 7648/DETROIT.
Website: www.visitdetroit.com

Passes

There are no longer any dedicated tourist passes in Detroit, but money saving coupons are available from the CVB's website.

Attractions

Belle Isle
Once known as Hog Island, the now more aptly named Belle Isle is a picturesque island in the Detroit River connected to the city by a small bridge. It is designed by Frederick Law Olmstead, who also designed New York's Central Park. Albert Kahn, a well-known turn-of-the-century architect, designed the Belle Isle's Whitcomb Conservatory (website: www.bibsociety.org), which contains regional flora from all over the country. Year-round features include a nature centre, beaches, waterslide, tennis courts and playgrounds. The island hosts the Detroit Grand Prix every June.
Jefferson Avenue and Grand Boulevard
Tel: (313) 852 4075.
Website: www.ci.detroit.mi.us/recreation/centers/M/belle_isle/belleM.htm
Free admission.

Dossin Great Lakes Museum
The brainchild of Walter Dossin, a power-boat racing magnate, the Dossin Great Lakes Museum chronicles the flavourful history of Great Lakes boating and shipping through models, exhibits, paintings and memorabilia. One of its most enticing attractions is the Gothic Room, which features 7.5 tonnes of carved gothic oak removed from the elegant turn-of-the-century river luxury liner City of Detroit III.
100 Strand Drive, Belle Isle
Tel: (313) 852 4051.
Website: www.detroithistorical.org/html/information/dossin.html
Admission charge.

Restaurants

Coach Insignia
Located at the top of the Renaissance Centre, this place is the second highest restaurant in the USA. The panoramic views of Detroit are amazing, and the contemporary American food isn't bad either. A world-class wine list makes this one of Detroit's finest dining experiences.
Renaissance Center
Tel: (313) 567 2622.
Website: www.mattprenticerg.com
Price: $$$$

Elwood Bar & Grill
One of Downtown Detroit's most recognisable eateries, Elwood Bar & Grill is a retro art deco diner serving up American favourites. It was built in 1936 at the corner of Elizabeth Street and Woodward Avenue, but had to move to make way for Comerica Park in 1997. After the move, the diner was given a thorough makeover. Owing to its proximity to Comerican Park and Ford Field, it is popular with sports fans.
300 Adams Avenue (at Brush)
Tel: (313) 962 2337/BEER.
Website: www.elwoodgrill.com
Price: $

Lafayette Coney Island
In short, a hot dog joint- but possibly the best hot dog joint in the world. This is a relaxed cafe with orange formica tables and matching chairs in true 1970s style. Detroiters stop by for the famous Coney Island Dog, a beef sausage topped with meat chilli, onion and mustard.
118 W Lafayette Boulevard
Tel: (313) 964 8198.
Price: $

Pegasus Taverna
The Pegasus Taverna has been churning out lip-smacking Greek food for over two decades now, and has recently added a deli counter to its restaurant. Run by a Greek family, the Taverna is a great way to start a night out in Greektown. Try the famous Saganaki- a plate of kasseri cheese set aflame at your tableside.
558 Monroe Street
Tel: (313) 964 6800.
Website: www.pegasustaverna.com
Price: $$

Rattlesnake Club
With exquisite art works on the walls, a sophisticated interior and a wonderful view of the Detroit River to boot, the Rattlesnake Club is one of Detroit's foremost dining places. Run by renowned Detroit restaurateur Jimmy Schmidt, the restaurant offers creative, cutting-edge American cuisine of the highest quality, and the attentive staff always make sure that a meal is a pleasant experience.
300 River Place Drive
Tel: (313) 567 4400.
Website: www.rattlesnakeclub.com
Price: $$$$

Seldom Blues
Another restaurant with a great view of the Detroit River and the Windsor skyline, Seldom Blues is an elegant Renaissance Center jazz and supper club with a dining-room stage for live entertainment. The cuisine is modern continental with a bias towards the French kitchen. It is a stylish and very popular restaurant, offering classy musical accompaniment to the culinary creations on offer.
Renaissance Center
Tel: (313) 567 7301.
Website: www.seldomblues.com
Price: $$$

Night Life

Once thought of as a grim, industrial and frankly dangerous town, Detroit now has an enviable nightlife, anchored by three hugely popular casinos all located in the rebounding downtown area.

Musically, Detroit nightlife runs the whole gamut from easy-listening jazz to hard-core techno. Club Bleu, 1540 Woodward Ave (website: www.bleudetroit.com), offers house and techno from the world's best DJ's, while the Elysium Lounge, 625 Shelby Avenue (website: www.elysium-lounge.com), is a nightclub with five bars, seven rooms, and all styles of music.

For those looking for something a little easier on the ears, the Majestic Theatre, 41420 Woodward Avenue (website: www.majesticdetroit.com), is the hot spot for jazz, blues reggae and rock, and Attic Bar, 11667 North Joseph Campau, is an intimate place playing Detroit blues.

Finally, for a simple good beer in friendly surroundings, head to Greektown. There are a number of bars on Monroe Street, including Marilyn's on Monroe, 419 Monroe Street, and The Music Menu Cafe, 511 Monroe Street.

Alcohol can legally be served in Detroit until 0200 to over-21-year-olds. Dress at most bars and clubs is casual. When a dress code is in effect, it usually has more to do with style and less to do with any explicit smart dress policy.

Shopping

For the flash, the only truly authentic thing to bring home from Detroit would be a car. The rest of us will have to make do with the myriad malls that line Detroit's street. The majority of the best malls tend to be in the suburbs, like the Fairlane Tower Centre, 18900 Michigan Ave, which has all the big names like Sears and JC Penney. Downtown, the Renaissance Center has a number of high quality shops.

Shopping hours
Shops are usually open Monday to Saturday 1000-2100, and Sunday 1200-1800.

Tax information
Michigan charges a 6% sales tax that isn't refunded on purchases.

Events

North American International Auto Show
January
Cobo Conference and Exhibition Center
Website: www.naias.com

Greektown Arts Festival
May
Celebration of music, art and food.
Greektown

Motor City Pride
June
Celebration of Detroit's gay, lesbian and bisexual community.
Website: www.motorcitypride.org

Michigan State Fair
August
The oldest state fair in the USA.
Michigan State Fairground
Website: www.michiganstatefair.com
 
Detroit International Jazz Festival
September
The jazz world's end of summer ritual in the Motor City. 
Labor Day weekend
Website: www.detroitjazzfest.com

Detroit Festival of Arts
September
International arts festival
University Cultural Center and the streets surrounding the cultural attractions near Wayne State University
Website: www.detroitfestival.com

Detroit Freepress/Flagstar Bank Marathon
October
Website: http://detroitfreepressmarathon.com/index.cfm

America's Thanksgiving Parade
November
Woodward Avenue

History & Culture

Detroit has always had a thriving music culture, from the birth of Motown through to the current techno revival. However, Detroit's art scene also thrives, with the most theatre seats in the country bar New York, and regular music and dance performances.

The cornerstone of Detroit arts is the Fox Theatre, 2211 Woodward Avenue (tel: (313) 471 3200; website: www.olympiaentertainment.com), the second largest theatre in the US. The Fisher Theatre, 3011 West Grand Boulevard (tel: (313) 872 1000; website: www.nederlanderdetroit.com), plays host to New York comedies and Broadway productions.

Another excellent cultural institution is the Detroit Opera House, 1526 Broadway (tel: (313) 961 3500; website: www.motopera.org), which hosts opera, dance and musicals from the Michigan Opera Theatre and beyond.

Detroit has a plethora of cinemas, but the finest may well be the AMC Star Southfield, 25333 West 12 Mile Road (tel: (248) 368 1802; website: www.amctheatres.com), which has a Motown-themed lobby and stadium-style seating for a unique experience. For art house cinema, try the Detroit Institute of Arts, 5200 Woodward Avenue, (313) 833 7900; website: www.dia.org).

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