The Place for Government Per Diem Rate Hotels

City Overview

Chicago offers many hotels with great government per diem rates. Federal, state government and military personnel will all find suitable hotels with per diem rates close to their chosen destination. Search Hotels at Per Diem to find exactly what you are looking for.

Often called the 'Second City', Chicago is number one when it comes to culture, fine dining, shopping and commerce.

Situated on Lake Michigan, incomparable architecture erupts from its western shores. The Downtown area is known as the 'Loop' since the raised metropolitan railway (known as the 'El' or 'L') circles the central business and shopping district. Just east of it is Michigan Avenue, an upscale shopping area a few blocks from the lake.

Over 50 languages are spoken in this culturally and religiously diverse metropolis. Chicagoans are friendly, hard-working and serious sports fans.

Festivals, theatre, dance, art, music, including a world-class symphony and great jazz, make Chicago a city of culture. An extensive French Impressionist collection puts Art Institute on the world map. Famous architects, such as Louis Sullivan, Mies van der Rohe and Frank Lloyd Wright and his Prairie School of Architecture thrived here. Chicago is home to the Reliance Building (now Hotel Burnham), the first steel-framed skyscraper as well as the Willis Tower (formerly known as Sears Tower), one of the world's tallest buildings.

A newer addition, Millennium Park is the setting for the works of Frank Gehry, Jaume Plensa and Anish Kapoor.

Getting Around

Airport

O'Hare International Airport (ORD)
Tel: (773) 686 3700 or 1 800 832 6352.
Website: www.flychicago.com
O'Hare is the major international airport for Chicago, only 30km (19 miles) northwest of the downtown area.

Airportfacilities: Permanent bureau de change facilities and ATMs are available in all terminals and the latter take most international cards. Hotel and transportation information in eight different languages is available at Virtual Concierge Kiosks located in the baggage areas. Also located in each terminal are a variety of restaurants, bars, fast food outlets and shops, as well as car hire from Alamo, Avis, Budget, Dollar, Enterprise, Hertz and National. University of Illinois Medical Center, a fairly comprehensive medical clinic, is located in Terminal 2. 

Businessfacilities:LaptopLane, located in Terminal 1, offers workstations for travellers. The HiltonBusinessCenter (tel: (773) 601 1743), located in the Hilton Hotel in Terminal 2, offers full business services. For a fee, Wi-Fi access is available in most sections of the airport.

Transporttothecity: The ChicagoTransitAuthority (CTA) (tel: 1 888 968 7282/ YOUR CTA; www.transitchicago.com) and the RegionalTransportationAuthority (RTA) (tel: (312) 913 3110; www.rtachicago.com) are the major means of public transportation to and from the airport. Blue Line trains are the quickest and cheapest way into central Chicago. The service operates 24 hours and leaves every 10 minutes (journey time - 45 minutes). The walk from the flight terminals to the trains is a long one.

ContinentalAirportExpress (tel: (773) 247 1200 or 1 888 284 3826; www.airportexpress.com) operates a shuttle minibus service 0600-2330 to central Chicago, and to the northern suburban locations in a shared coach (journey time - 45 minutes). Omega (tel: (773) 734 6688; www.omegashuttle.com) offers an hourly service 0600-2330, between O'Hare and Midway Airports, and also departs from Hyde Park (near the University of Chicago) from 0500 (journey time - 45 minutes). Taxis are available for around US$40 per person plus a fuel surcharge and for Share-a-Ride, sharing a cab with a stranger, the fare would be one-half. Expect to tip the driver about 10-15%.

Midway International Airport (MDW)
Tel: (773) 838 0600 or 1 800 832 6352.
Website: www.flychicago.com
This airport, 18km (11 miles) southwest of Downtown Chicago, is used by domestic and discount airlines.

Airportfacilities: ATMs, cafes, bars, newspaper stands and car hire from Alamo, Avis, Budget, Dollar, Enterprise, Hertz, National and Thrifty.

Businessfacilities: There is no business centre, but Wi-Fi is available throughout the airport for a fee.

Transporttothecity: The CTA (tel: 1 888 968 7282/YOUR CTA; www.transitchicago.com) and RTA (tel: (312) 913 3110; www.rtachicago.com) are the major means of public transportation to and from the airport. The Orange Line train goes to the city centre 0435-2320 (journey time - 20-25 minutes). ContinentalAirportExpress (tel: (773) 247 1200 or 1 888 284 3826; www.airportexpress.com) operates a shuttle minibus service 0600-2330 to central Chicago and to northern suburban locations (journey time - 45 minutes). Omega (tel: (773) 734 6688; www.omegashuttle.com) offers an hourly service 0700-2345, between O'Hare and Midway Airports. Taxis to the centre will cost around US$35-40 plus a fuel surcharge, depending on the traffic, and from the South Side US$17. Share-a-Ride costs about half the fare (journey time - 30 minutes).

Approximate flight times to Chicago: From London is 8 hours 30 minutes; from New York is 2 hours 15 minutes; from Los Angeles is 4 hours; from Toronto is 1 hour 45 minutes and from Sydney is 13 hours 30 minutes.
Up-to-date arrival and departure information for both Chicago airports can be found on www.flychicago.com.

Trains

Amtrak (tel: 1 800 872 7245/USA RAIL; www.amtrak.com) operates from Union Station, 225 South Canal Street), which is also the hub of its whole national network. The beautiful station is a Chicago landmark, reminiscent of the time when railroads were the country's main transportation artery. Facilities include bars and food outlets, ATMs, baggage porters, an enclosed waiting area, payphones, as well as short- and long-term paid parking. The commuter service, Metra Rail (tel: (312) 322 6777; www.metrarail.com), also operates from here. Car hire is available from Budget, Enterprise and Hertz. Travellers with enquiries should either contact Amtrak or the stations on the intended route.

Rail Services

Trains are available from Union Station to destinations across the USA including Milwaukee (journey time - 1hour 30 minutes), Detroit (journey time - 6 hours 30 minutes), New York (journey time - 19 hours) and San Francisco (journey time - 51 hours).

By Road

Chicago is as much the centre of the US road network as it is that for rail and air routes. The general rule for numbering on freeways and interstates is that odd numbers go north-south and even numbers go east-west over their whole length, although at any single, localised point it may seem different. Driving is on the right. The speed limits on the different motorways can vary. The general maximum is 90kph (55mph), with some spots being 110kph (70mph). Town residential areas can be as slow as 30kph (20mph), with specifically posted limits near schools. It is also illegal to pass a yellow 'School Bus' when its red lights are flashing. Unless specified, it is permissible to turn right at a red light after making a complete stop. Seat belts are obligatory for front-seat passengers and, within the city limits. It is illegal to use a hand-held mobile phone while driving. The maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio is 0.08% and the prosecution for drink driving is severe.
 
The minimum driving age is 16 years. A valid driving licence, preferably one with a photo ID, is valid but a temporary International Driving Permit also works. Third party insurance is mandatory, although it is also highly recommended for drivers to have adequate travel medical insurance, as the cost of medical treatment in the USA is huge. Petrol ('gas') is cheaper than in Europe, though prices frequently fluctuate. Many petrol stations are open 24 hours a day on main roads and operate a pre-pay system at the pumps using a credit card or through a cashier.
 
The American Automobile Association (AAA) (tel: 1 800 222 1134) can provide information and may offer reciprocal benefits to members of automobile clubs in other countries.

Emergency breakdown services
AAA (tel: 1 800 222 4357/AAA HELP).

Routes to the city

Interstate 90 (I-90) runs due west to Seattle on the Pacific seaboard, while I-80 runs a parallel westward route, further south, to San Francisco. Its eastward stretch goes to New York. I-55 goes south to St Louis, then follows the Mississippi to New Orleans on the Gulf of Mexico. Making an arc on the west side of the city, about 16km (10 miles) from the Loop at its nearest point to Downtown, the I-294 is a toll road. Also, south of the city centre, the I-90 becomes the 'Chicago Skyway Toll' road, on its route to Indianapolis. The I-94 connects with Milwaukee and Minneapolis in the north, while the I-80 takes drivers west toward Omaha.

Coach services

The main bus station is located at 630 West Harrison Street (tel: (312) 408 5800), only two blocks from the CTA Blue Line's Clinton Station. Greyhound (tel: 1 800 231 2222; www.greyhound.com) operates buses nationwide from here. Indian Trails (tel: 1 800 292 3831; www.indiantrails.com) operates the regional services between Chicago and Michigan destinations like Bay City, Saginaw and Flint.

Local Transport

Public Transport

The Chicago Transit Authority (CTA) (tel: 1 888 968 7282/YOUR CTA; www.transitchicago.com) operates trains and buses within the city. The trains are referred to as the 'El' or 'L' (the name is derived from the elevated rail that circles around the main Downtown business and shopping district). Each of the seven train lines are identified and named by a different colour. CTA services run 24 hours. Overnight or Night Owl services operate between approximately 0000 and 0500.
 
Passes for two, three and five days are available. There is a transfer charge of US$0.25 between routes, whether train or bus. Tickets and passes are available for purchase from machines and ticket offices at the stations, as well as from visitor information centres and directly from the CTA.
 
Metra (tel: (312) 322 6777; www.metrarail.com) is a commuter rail system serving the suburbs and surrounding cities with 12 lines.
 
The Regional Transit Authority (RTA) (tel: (312) 913-3110 weekdays 0830-1900 or (312) 836 7000; www.rtachicago.com) oversees Northern Illinois public transportation and includes, the CTA, the suburban bus line, PACE (tel: (847) 364 7223), and Metra.
 
Free trolley buses (tel: 1 877 244 2246/CHICAGO; www.choosechicago.com) travel between the city's most popular attractions like Navy Pier, the Museum Campus and North Michigan Avenue. Buses run from late May until early September and then again during the holiday season (late November until after New Year's Day).
 
Pedways
An underground system of 'pedways' (pedestrian walkways or subways to the British) is especially useful for escaping the weather and crowded downtown streets. From this network, which links over 40 blocks of streets, there is access to many buildings, stations and shops in the Loop. Maps are available, free of charge, from hotels and around the various points of the system, including the Illinois Center.

Taxis

These are easy to hail on the streets, especially in the Loop and Wrigleyville. A tip of 10-15% is usually expected. The main companies are American United Cab Assoc. (tel: (773) 248 7600), Checker Taxi Assoc. Inc. (tel: (312) 243 2537), Flash Cab Co (tel: (773) 992 0303), Wolley Cab (tel: 1 877 888 8294) and Yellow Cab (tel: (312) 829 4222/TAXICAB).

Driving in the City

For those who are new to the city, driving is not recommended. The traffic is hectic during rush hours (0700-0930 and 1600-1900) and confusing because of the one-way street systems in Downtown areas. Local drivers are sometimes impatient with those who do not know where they are going, so it is best for visitors to get into the main areas by train, bus or taxi and continue on foot.
 
If driving is the only option, be aware that the city streets are largely based on a grid pattern, the central point of which is the crossroads at Madison Avenue and State Street, in the Loop district. From here, the naming of a street as 'north' or 'south' or as 'west' or 'east' is taken for granted.
 
Street parking meters take coins above US$0.10 (a dime), with US$0.25 (a quarter) being the most useful coin. The more congested the area, the higher the meter rate. Major attractions may have limited parking but, in general, Downtown parking is difficult and expensive. From 1 December to 1 April, Snow Parking regulations apply on many streets, making fewer spaces available, and cars parked on snow routes are likely to be towed.

Car Hire

The minimum age for hiring a car varies from 21 to 25 years. Car rental agencies charge an extra premium to drivers under 25. A valid driving licence or an International Driving Permit is required. Costly insurance can be part of the hire arrangement, but renters should check their auto insurance to see if their policies cover rental cars.
 
Recommended US car hire companies include Alamo (tel: 1 800 327 9633; www.alamo.com), Avis (tel: 1 800 331 1212; www.avis.com), Budget (tel: 1 800 527 0700; www.budget.com), Dollar (tel: 1 800 800 4000; www.dollar.com), Hertz (tel: 1 800 654 3131; www.hertz.com) and National (tel: 1 800 227 7368; www.nationalcar.com).

Bicycle Hire

For visitors, cycling on the streets is discouraged; however, biking the lakefront cycling paths is quite pleasant. Bike Chicago, at Navy Pier, Millennium Park (tel: 1 888 245 3929; www.bikechicago.com) or at its other locations: North Avenue Beach, 1603 N. Lakeshore Drive; Riverwalk, Wacker Dr. & Columbus St; Navy Pier, 600 E. Grand Avenue or Foster Beach, 5200 N. Lakeshore Drive, has a good range of bicycles for hire. Bike Chicago also offers cycling tours.

General Information

Location

State of Illinois, southwest shores of Lake Michigan, USA.

Time zone

GMT - 6 (GMT - 5 from the second Sunday in March to the first Sunday in November).

Electricity

110 volts AC, 50Hz; flat two-pin plugs are standard.

Average January temperatures

- 6ºC (21ºF).

Average July temperatures

22.5ºC (73ºF).

Annual rainfall

840mm (33 inches).

Things to do

Sightseeing Overview

To appreciate the city's arts, architecture and American life, start at the Chicago Cultural Center. The Center at 77 East Randolph occupies an entire block and contains the Chicago Office of Tourism. Originally built as a library, the grand structure was completed in 1897. Inside is the world's largest Tiffany dome and three floors (joined by a great staircase) of beautiful rooms with displays and information. 

Just across the street is Millennium Park. Brimming with Frank Gehry architecture and interactive art, it is a verdant oasis in the summer. In winter, ice skaters swirl around its outdoor rink.

The Art Institute is world-class. Find more art at the galleries clustered on both the Magnificent Mile and at River North. Search for the latest information on art exhibits in ChicagoGalleryNews (www.chicagogallerynews.com), available at any of the galleries.

If the weather is pleasant, visitors can take in the beach resort feel of the city. Monroe, Montrose and Burnham harbours are popular working and pleasure spots with yacht clubs and other services. While away a day at Lincoln Park, sunbathe and people-watch at Oak Street Beach, located on the north side of the town's Gold Coast, or take your canine to romp at the ‘doggy beach,' located between Montrose and Belmont.

Experience the ‘City of Big Shoulders' (Carl Sandburg) skyline, from the Ferris wheel at Navy Pier or travel south down North Lake Shore Drive and look toward the city at North Avenue Beach. One of the best ground level glimpses of the Wrigley Building and the Loop is at the Chicago River Michigan Avenue Bridge. And if you still want to see more, visit one of the old reliables - the Willis Tower (formerly known as Sears Tower) Skydeck or the John Hancock Observatory.

Tourist Information

Chicago Office of Tourism
Chicago Cultural Center
77 East Randolph
Tel: (312) 744 2400 or 1 877 244 2246/CHICAGO.
Website: www.explorechicago.org or www.choosechicago.com

Opening hours: Mon-Thu 0800-1900, Fri- Sat 0800-1800,  Sun 1000-1800, holidays 1000-1600.

Additional location: Chicago Waterworks, 163 East Pearson Street, opening hours same as above.

More visitor information is available from IllinoisTourism (tel: 1 800 406 6418; www.enjoyillinois.com), at the airports and Union Station.

Passes

CityPass (www.citypass.com) offers free admission to six Chicago attractions. It lasts for nine days and can be purchased from the attractions on the day or online in advance. GoChicago Card (tel: 1 866 628 9031; www.gochicagocard.com) offers a one to multi-day card for free admissions to over 25 attractions, plus shopping, restaurant and lodging discounts.

Attractions

Brookfield Zoo
Naturalistic settings aim to make visitors think they are in the wild, though sometimes hordes of school children make it seem otherwise. The nearly 67-hectare (200-acre) facility is home to more than 3,000 animals. Monkeys, birds and otters are found in the Tropical World, while sharks, seals and jellyfish inhabit the Living Coast. There are daily dolphin shows and Hamill Family Zoo, plus a petting zoo where kids can be zookeepers, vets and gardeners. The zoo's latest exhibit, Stingray Bay, allows visitors to interact with stingrays and is proving extremely popular with younger children.
3300 Golf Road, Brookfield
Tel: (708) 485 0263 or 1 866 468 6966 (for out of area).
Website: www.brookfieldzoo.org
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700 (Nov-Mar); weekdays 1000-1700, weekends 1000- 1800 (Apr-late May and early Sep-Oct); Daily 0930-1800 (late May-early Sep).
Admission charge.

DuSable Museum of African American History
With the aid of artefacts, books, slave documents, civil rights memorabilia, paintings, drawings and sculpture, the DuSable Museum, the country's oldest museum of its kind, dedicates itself to preserving and interpreting African Americans' history and culture. Exhibits about the Underground Railroad, the Civil Rights Movement and Hale Woodruff murals, illustrating the slave ship Amistad, educate visitors about the turbulent history of African Americans.
740 East 56th Place (57th Street and South Cottage Grove Avenue)
Tel: (773) 947 0600.
Website: www.dusablemuseum.org
Opening hours: Tues-Sat 1000-1700, Sun 1200-1700.
Admission charge.

Lincoln Park Zoo
Lincoln Park Zoo, which sits alongside Lake Michigan, has been a favourite to both locals and visitors since 1868. Though it is noted for its Great Ape, Elephant and Lion Houses, other buildings in the nation's first urban zoo tend to simulate natural habitats. The Regenstein Small Mammal and Reptile House has a glass dome roof that serves to replicate a jungle, river and forest environment. You will find cuddly koalas here too. While away your time amid orchids and lush greenery at the nearby Lincoln Park Conservatory (2200 North Stockton Drive).
2200 North Cannon Drive
Tel: (312) 742 2000.
Website: www.lpzoo.org
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700, buildings close 1630 (Nov-Mar); 0700-1830 (Apr-late May and early Sep-Oct); 0900-1900 (late May-early Sep).
Free admission. 

Macy's (formerly Marshall Field's)
One of the earliest department stores in the world, Marshall Field's (now Macy's) was to Chicago what Harrods is to London - much more than just a place to shop. Designed by Daniel Burnham in a neo-classical style, the State Street store opened in 1907. Its green clock at the State and Randolph entrance has become a Chicago landmark. A visit is as much an architectural experience as it is a consumer one. The building has distinct courtyards, one resembling an Italian palazzo, a striking Tiffany dome of mosaic glass, a calming fountain and gilded pillars. For lunch, try the famous Walnut Room and don't forget to sample Frango mints, which are a store speciality.
111 North State Street
Tel: (312) 781 1000.
Website: www.macys.com
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 1000-2000, Sat 0900-2100, Sun 1100-2000.
Free admission.  

McCormick Tribune Freedom Museum
To help visitors understand, value and protect freedom, the McCormick Tribune Freedom Museum explores the US Constitution's First Amendment: ‘Congress shall make no law respecting an establishment of religion, or prohibiting the free exercise thereof; or abridging the freedom of speech, or of the press; or the right of the people peaceably to assemble and petition the government for a redress of grievances.' Exhibits explain influences on basic American freedoms and the struggle to preserve them. Freedom's history and issues such as Native American, civil, immigrant and worker rights are also examined.
445 North Michigan Avenue
Tel: (312) 222 4860.
Website: www.freedommuseum.us
Opening hours: Wed-Mon 1000-1800.Admission charge.

National Vietnam Veterans' Art Museum
Enter to the sound of tinkling bells, then look toward the ceiling and see Above and Beyond: 58,000 imprinted dog tags of the men and women who lost their lives in the Vietnam War. This museum is dedicated to collecting, preserving and displaying artwork done by Vietnam veterans, which includes the Viet Cong and the North Vietnamese as well as the allies. Artefacts and artwork give one a more intimate look and a better understanding of a most unpopular war.
1801 South Indiana Avenue
Tel: (312) 326 0270.
Website: www.nvvam.org
Opening hours: Tues-Fri: 1100-1800, Sat: 1000-1700.
Admission charge.

The Oprah Winfrey Show
Everyone wants to see Oprah and her popular TV talk show. It is possible to do just that because programmes are recorded in Chicago with a live audience. Morning and afternoon dates vary and go from Jan-Jun and Sep-Nov. Tickets, available exclusively by phone at the ticket hotline: (312) 591 9222, are at a premium and must be obtained at least one month in advance. A valid photo ID is required to enter the studio.
Harpo Studios, 1058 West Washington Boulevard
Tel: (312) 591 9222.
Website: www.oprah.com
Free admission.

Oriental Institute Museum
Having done a lot of archaeological digs and studies in the Near East, the University of Chicago uses this venue to showcase its major collections from Egypt, Israel, Iran, Iraq, Sudan, Syria and Turkey. Reliefs, jewellery, pottery, bronzes, cuneiforms and mummies dating from 4000BC to 1300AD grace the galleries. Most impressive is the 4-ton, 16-ft human headed winged bull from an Assyrian palace. It dominates the Mesopotamian Gallery.
1155 East 58th Street
Tel: (773) 702 9514.
Website: www.oi.uchicago.edu
Opening hours: Tues, Thurs-Sat 1000-1800, Wed 1000-2030, Sun 1200-1800. Free admission, a donation of US$5 is suggested.

The Peggy Notebaert Nature Museum
Feel the tickle of a butterfly as you walk amid hundreds of Midwest species of them. The exhibits in this wonderful nature museum help kids of all ages (as well as those who are still big kids at heart) to learn about the impact of lakes and rivers. The museum's huge windows reveal the outdoor nature of the surrounding Lincoln Park.
2430 North Cannon Drive
Tel: (773) 755 5100.
Website: www.chias.org
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1630, Sat-Sun 1000-1700.
Admission charge. 

Spertus Museum
Since 1924, the museum has given visitors a chance to explore the multi-faceted Jewish experience. Exhibitions are not just limited to the Jewish objects, but its newest exhibition includes part of philanthropist Julius Rosenwald's collection of African art. The new interactive Children's Center includes a video area, Walls of Drawers and Doors, a Skydome and a rope tube that kids can climb. 
618 South Michigan Avenue
Tel: (312) 322 1700.
Website: www.spertus.edu
Opening hours: Sun and Wed 1000-1700, Thurs 1000-1800.
Admission charge.

Restaurants

Gastronomic

Alinea
At Alinea, dinner is a sensual journey through unique pairings, aromas, textures and sensations. In an intimate, earthy-toned setting, sample a 15-course Tasting Menu or 27-course Tour Menu. Each is uniquely presented, sometimes on pillows and at other times on specially designed dinnerware. For example, inside a wire basket sits a bourbon sweet potato tempura topped off with a smoldering stick of cinnamon. Reservations essential.

1723 North Halsted St, Lincoln Park
Tel: (312) 867 0110.
Website: www.alinea-restaurant.com
Price: $$$$

Arun's
Thai décor, artefacts and craftwork make Chicago's foremost Thai restaurant a Siamese sanctuary. Dinner, an ever-changing fixed-price 12-course meal, is a gourmet sampling of authentic Thai cuisine and carved vegetables. Each course, such as lobster with a sweet, spicy and sour sauce, is exquisitely presented and can be customised to suit individual tastes. Closed Monday. No lunch. Reservations are required.

4156 North Kedzie Avenue, North Side
Tel: (773) 539 1909.
Website: www.arunsthai.com
Price: $$$$

Charlie Trotters
Seasonal menus at this popular venue set the standard for Chicago's haute cuisine. Dining salons are elegant and understated while the cuisine, reflecting subtle Asian and European influences, is vibrantly coloured, delicate and exquisite. Unusual pairings create delicious flavour sensations, like the parsnip and carrot cake dessert served with carrot-honey sauce and nutmeg ice cream. Three wine cellars house 25,000 bottles of wine. Reservations are required.

816 West Armitage Avenue
Tel: (773) 248 6228.
Website: www.charlietrotters.com
Price: $$$$

Everest
Perched on the 40th floor of the Chicago Stock Exchange building, Everest is also tops for French dining in Chicago. Modern décor and an extensive wine list complement main courses that range from halibut wrapped in potato crust to game delicacies such as venison in wild huckleberry sauce. Creative desserts, like a crêpe-filled Moroccan date soufflé, are delicious. Closed Sunday and Monday. No lunch. Reservations are required.

440 South LaSalle Street, 40th floorTel: (312) 663 8920.
Website: www.everestrestaurant.com
Price: $$$$

Les Nomades
This refurbished mansion is tucked away but there is not-to-be-missed dining in its stylish salons. Service is low-key, but the contemporary French cuisine is high quality. Main courses are sometimes interestingly paired, such as squab and ostrich with vegetables and chocolate-scented squab jus. Closed Sunday and Monday. No lunch. Reservations are required.

222 East Ontario Street
Tel: (312) 649 9010.
Website: www.lesnomades.net
Price: $$$$

TRU
TRU's minimalist setting showcases the maximum in taste. The Caviar Staircase starter features a different type of caviar on each rung. Though menus change daily, award-winning chef Rick Tramonto might offer a prime beef ribeye with garlic emulsion or truffle freeform lobster with mushrooms while renowned pastry chef Gale Gand whips up sumptuous chocolate desserts. Guests can tour the kitchen. Reservations required.

676 North Saint Clair Street
Tel: (312) 202 0001.
Website: www.trurestaurant.com
Price: $$$$

Trendy

China Grill
An open kitchen, illuminated see-through bar and black and red décor creates a hip atmosphere.  Asian-fusion entrees are large and meant to be shared, but offerings like the Caesar salad with spiced cashews or the sweet soy marinated skirt steak with noodles and shitake mushrooms are so luscious you might want to eat them all yourself. The friendly staff will gladly assist you with savoury suggestions.

230 North Michigan Avenue in the Hard Rock Hotel
Tel: (312) 334 6700.
Website: www.chinagrillmgt.com
Price: $$$

Gibson's
Gibson's is a favourite for native carnivores, tourists and celebrities like Michael Jordan. A friendly staff serves steaks smothered with any combination of blue cheese, onions, crushed pepper, mushrooms, garlic or Cajun rub. Consider sharing your meal because it portions are laughingly large - potatoes almost the size of footballs, humungous desserts and beef portions so huge, the only thing missing are the horns and the tail.

1028 North Rush St.
Tel: (847) 928 9900.
Website: www.GibsonsSteakhouse.com

Green Zebra
Cosy and uniquely designed, angles set off this venue of high ceilings, minimalist décor of grey, white and green plants. A seasonally changing menu offers an array of elegantly served vegetarian tapas (all mains are small plates) which might include raviolis with goat cheese, hazelnut and dates or parmesan caraway gnocchi. For those who prefer meat, there is a selection of chicken or fish.  

1460 West Chicago Avenue
Tel: (312) 243 7100.
Website: www.greenzebrachicago.com
Price: $$$

Fogo de Chão
A ranchy atmosphere prepares the diner for espeto corridor (continuous service). Diners receive a two-sided chip. Green side means 'go' and will immediately summon a gaucho chef. He will have long skewer of one of 15 different cuts of meat to carve at your table. Turn the chip to red and be left to savour those numerous tasty morsels. Accompaniments include a massive salad bar and a fine wine selection.

661 North LaSalle Street
Tel: (312) 932 9330.
Website: www.fogodechao.com
Price: $$$

Sushisamba Rio
Maybe former Peruvian President Alberto Fujimori (he was Japanese) was the inspiration for Sushisamba Rio. South American/Japanese specialities go from empanadas, and churrasco (thick grilled steak) to sushi and bento boxes. Brightly coloured high ceilings with large puffy cloud-like light fixtures make the décor as creative as the menu. On Wednesdays after 2200, there are live samba and capoeira (African-Brazilian martial arts) performances.

504 North Wells Street
Tel: (312) 595 2300.
Website: www.sushisamba.com
Price: $$$

Budget

Lou Mitchell's 
The exterior neon sign is straight out of the 1950s, and, for that matter, so is the interior. Since 1923, customers have been attracted by the variety of freebies given here, such as doughnut holes or Milk Duds (caramel-covered chocolate candies) while waiting to be seated, a prune and orange wedge for breakfast and, for lunch, soft-serve ice cream. Located near Union Station. Breakfast and lunch.

565 West Jackson Boulevard
Tel: (312) 939 3111.
Website: www.loumitchellsrestaurant.com
Price: $

Mr. Beef On Orleans
Sidle up to the high counter at Mr. Beef On Orleans and order a spicy, Italian beef on an Italian roll, a burger or an Italian sausage. Be forewarned. If you don't lean over the Formica counter when eating these huge sloppy sandwiches, the tell-tale stains on your clothes will let everyone know what you had for lunch. Mr. Beef is a favorite of everyone-gourmets and ordinary folk. No dinner.

666 N. Orleans Street
Tel: 312-337-8500
Price: $

Pizzeria Uno
Chicago deep-pan pizza was born at Pizzeria Uno. Its cellar-like atmosphere has not changed much since it opened in 1943. Customers still clamour for Uno's crunchy-crust pizza topped with fresh tomatoes, a thick layer of sausage and lots of mozzarella cheese. Be prepared to wait, because reservations are not accepted at this ever-popular restaurant. Open every day for lunch and dinner.

29 East Ohio Street
Tel: (312) 280 5120
Website: www.pizzeriauno.com
Price: $

Superdawg
A bit out-of-the-way, but this funky venue is worth the ride. It's easy to spot -just look for the giant red-eyed girl and boy Superdawgs standing on the roof.  Since 1948, patrons have driven in, placed their order, and had a carhop bring their juicy frankfurter and fries in a box to their car. A bit of trivia: Superdawg is listed in the book, "1000 Places to See Before You Die".

6363 N. Milwaukee Avenue
Tel: (773) 478 7800.
Website: www.superdawg.com

Wishbone
Located across from Harpo Studios and the Oprah Show, Wishbone is Southern comfort at very reasonable prices. Spacious and friendly, this is a good choice for down-home Cajun, soul and Southern food. The hoppin' John or hoppin' Jack (rice with black-eyed peas or black beans), baked bone-in ham, bacon and mushroomed studded grits and key lime pie all get raves. Breakfast, lunch and dinner. Closed Sunday and Monday nights.

1001 West Washington
Tel: (312) 850 2663.
Website: www.wishbonechicago.com
Price: $$

Branch: 3300 North Lincoln Avenue
Tel: (773) 549 2663.
Closed Monday nights.

Personal Recommendations

Russian Tea Time
Located close to the Symphony Center and Art Institute, this venue, with its soft lights, round red banquettes and Russian music, sets the scene for vodka, stroganoff and many vegetarian dishes. Black bread, beet caviar and carrot salad accompany almost every tasty entrée. Ample combination plates for two include croquettes, stroganoff and other tasty morsels. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Dinner reservations are recommended.

77 East Adams Street
Tel: (312) 360 0000.
Website: www.russianteatime.com
Price: $$$

Night Life

With a variety of entertainment venues, which vary from the boisterous (dance clubs) to the serene (wine bars), Chicago swings. Entertain yourself in Lincoln Park, the Gold Coast, Old Town and Streeterville (north of the Loop), Greek Town (west of the Loop) and the newest hot spots - River North, Wicker Park and Bucktown. Rush Street, once the happening place, has come back with its many upscale restaurants and outdoor cafes. Most bars close around 0200 or 0300 on Friday and Saturday nights, but outdoor gardens close at 2300. Check www.chicagoreader.com, www.cityofchicago.org, http://chicago.citysearch.com or www.metromix.com for comprehensive reviews and details.

Bars: Looking for a happening singles bar? Visit Original Mothers, 26 West Division, which was featured in the movie, About Last Night; Butch McGuire's, 20 West Division; or The Lodge, across the street at 16 West Division. The 2.74m fiberglass moose (9-ft) at the entrance and the canoe, cross-country skis and log cabin-style bar seats inside reminds customers of points north at Will's Northwood's Inn, 3030 North Racine. Goose Island Brewpub, 1800 North Clybourn is Chicago's most famous brewery and has 10 different beers on tap.  The young crowd also frequents Sound Bar, 226 West Ontario Street, Enclave, 220 West Chicago Avenue, Crobar, 1543 North Kingsbury, and Berlin Nightclub, 945 Belmont, a multicultural club where DJs play progressive, dance music.

Diehard Cub fans spend their time at sports bars near Wrigley Field - Cubby Bear Lounge, 1059 West Addison or Hi-Tops, 3551 North Sheffield. The spacious Joe's Bar, 940 West Weed Street, is a combination live music, Thursday night karaoke and sports bar. Its many TVs and 14 different satellite feeds make it a favourite hangout for avid sports fans.

If wine bars are more to your palate, get a grape education with every glass of wine at Bin 36, 339 North Dearborn Street, or at The Tasting Room, 1415 West Randolph. This chic, two-floor bar offers sweeping skyline vistas with every libation. For those who prefer the bubbly, there is Pops for Champagne, 601 North State Street, which boasts more than 140 different kinds of the stuff.

There are alternative country acts and a soul-gospel DJ at the 1940s-styled California Clipper, 1002 North California Avenue. Map mavens frequent the Map Room, 1949 North Hoyne Avenue, which, on Tuesday evenings, has a free buffet with different international cuisine each Tuesday, but you must purchase two drinks. For both sipping and scenery, nothing can compare to the spectacular views from the lounge of the Signature Room at the 95th at the John Hancock, 875 North Michigan Avenue.

Clubs: A stone walkway leads to the chic and sexy disco and lounge, Le Passage (www.lepassage.com), 937 North Rush and the Romanesque fortress-styled Excalibur (www.excaliburchicago.com), 632 North Dearborn, is an equally popular dance setting. Salsa favourites include Rumba, 351 West Hubbard Street and Nacional 27, 325 West Huron Street. There is jazz, blues and dancing at the New Checkerboard Lounge for Blues'n'Jazz, 5201 South Harper Court, where stars and wannabees play to a crowd of locals, university students and adoring fans.

Comedy: John Belushi, Dan Aykroyd, Bill Murray and Rick Moranis got their start at the popular The Second City, 1616 North Wells Street. The city's best stand-up comedian spot is Zanies Comedy Club, 1548 North Wells Such notables as Jay Leno, Jerry Seinfeld and Jackie Mason have performed there. Teams compete for audience approval at Comedy Sports, 929 West Belmont.

LiveMusic: Chicago has a healthy musical tradition covering everything - jazz, rock, country, blues and piano lounges. Blue Chicago, 736 North Clark (www.bluechicago.com) and B.L.U.E.S., 2519 North Halsted (www.chicagobluesbar.com), are where the tourists go to hear live performers. The neighbourhood is iffy but the jazz is great at the nearly century-old Green Mill, 4802 North Broadway (www.greenmilljazz.com). It also hosts the Uptown Poetry Slam on Sundays.

Buddy Guy's Legends, 754 South Wabash (www.buddyguy's.com), has also been around for quite a while. House of Blues, 329 North Dearborn (www.hob.com), at the base of Marina City, features rhythm and blues in the evenings and a Gospel brunch every Sunday.

At the Elbo Room, 2871 North Lincoln Avenue (www.elboroomchicago.com), sounds range from rock and acid jazz to funk, soul and pop. Other venues include Metro, 3730 North Clark Street (www.metrochicago.com), popular with the pierced-tongue crowd, and Double Doors, 1572 North Milwaukee Avenue (www.doubledoor.com). The new popular kid in town for live modern jazz is Close Up 2, 416 South Clark Street (www.closeup2jazz.com).

Useful booking numbers are JazzHotline (tel: (312) 427 3300) and the ConcertLine (tel: (312) 666 6667). Tickets for rock concerts can be purchased from Ticketmaster (tel: (312) 559 1212.

Shopping

Whatever your pleasure, be it discounts and designers, antiques, art or the kitschy, it is available in the Second City.

Shopping centres

Find interesting architecture and a huge merchandise selection at Macy's (formerly Marshall Field's, the original store) on State Street. But no visit would be complete without a shopping trip on the Magnificent Mile (North Michigan Avenue). The street, crowded with upscale malls (Water Tower Place, 900 North Michigan Avenue, The Shops at North Bridge), fashionable boutiques and big name stores such as Bloomingdale's, Macy's, Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus and Nordstroms, is also a people-watching paradise.
 
For bargains, shop Filene's Basement, 1 North State or 830 Michigan, Mark Shale Outlet, 2593 Elston, or the Gap outlet, 2778 North Milwaukee, for clothes, Jewelers Row, 5 South Wabash, for discounted baubles and Crate and Barrel Outlet, 850 West North Avenue, for housewares.

Key areas

The best souvenir selection is at Accent Chicago, 875 North Michigan, or City of Chicago Store at the Chicago Waterworks Visitors Center, 163 East Pearson, and Tastes of Chicago, (tel: 1 800 568 8643; www.tastesofchicago.com) will ship authentic Chicago food like hot dogs, pizza and Eli's cheesecake anywhere in the USA.
 
Taylor's Guide to Antique Shops in Illinois and Southern Wisconsin (available in bookstores, or tel: (847) 465 3311 or 1 800 829 5677; www.hairwork.com/guides/Illinois.htm) will direct you to the area's antique dealers. Many are located in the Lake View, Lincoln Square, Ravenswood and Edgewater areas.

For music, search the back walls of the legendary Rolling Stones, 7300 Irving Park Road, for the best deals, Jazz Record Mart, 27 East Illinois Avenue, for jazz, Reckless Records, 3161 North Broadway, 26 East Madison or 1532 North Milwaukee Avenue for alternative, new and used sounds, and 2nd Hand Tunes, 800 Dempster, Evanston, for used records.

Shopping hours

Except for special sales or the holiday season, malls and regular stores hours are usually Mon-Sat 1000-2100 and Sun 1100-1800. North Side neighbourhood stores that cater to young people often open later. Chicago sales taxes are 10.25%, aside from food (2%) and pharmaceuticals (0%).

Events

Chicago Auto Show
Mid February
McCormick Place
Website: www.chicagoautoshow.com

Chicago Flower & Garden Show
Mid March
Navy Pier
Website: www.chicagoflower.com

St Patrick's Day Parade
Saturday before St Patrick's Day
Downtown
Website: www.chicagostpatsparade.com

Cinco de Mayo Parade
Early May
Celebration of Chicago's Hispanic culture.
Marshall Boulevard

Chicago Gospel Music Festival
Late May or early June
Grant Park
Website: www.chicagogospelfestival.com

Chicago Blues Festival
June
Grant Park
Website: www.chicagobluesfestival.org

Taste of Chicago Festival
June/July
Grant Park
Website: www.tasteofchicago.us

Venetian Night
July
Boat parade and fireworks.
Downtown lakefront

Air and Water Show
Mid August
Lakefront

Chicago Jazz Festival
Late August
Millennium Park
Website: www.chicagojazzfestival.org

Bank of America Chicago Marathon
October
Website: www.chicagomarathon.com

Columbus Day Parade
Early October
Downtown

Treelighting Ceremony
November
Daley Plaza

Daley Plaza Santa's House
November/December
Daley Plaza

Magnificent Mile Lights Festival
November
Michigan Avenue
Website: www.themagnificentmile.com

History & Culture

Chicago's culture scene is extraordinary - a scene that includes a world-class opera and symphony, plus great jazz, theatre, dance, art and architecture.
To keep abreast, pick up a copy of the free weekly, The Reader (www.chireader.com) distributed on Thursdays. The city's dailies, Chicago Tribune and Chicago Sun-Times, have up-to-date cultural reviews and comments, particularly on Fridays. The best online information is at www.metromix.com, City Search at http://chicago.citysearch.com or the Things to See & Do section of the city's website (www.choosechicago.com).

Tickets can be purchased from individual box offices or from Ticketmaster (tel: (312) 902 1500 for the arts line). At HotTix booths, 72 East Randolph and 163 East Pearson (Water Works Visitors Center), half-priced tickets are available on the day of performance. Check the website (www.hottix.org) for daily availability listings. There is a fee of US$3-4 per ticket for processing, so cash is more desirable.

Music:The Chicago Symphony Orchestra, 220 South Michigan Avenue (tel: (312) 294 3000; www.cso.org), is internationally renowned. The symphony box office offers Rush Seating - discounted tickets to students and senior citizens (aged 64 and over) on the day of the performance at 1200 for matinees and 1700 for evening performances. The symphony's outdoor, summer home is Ravinia, 400 Iris Lane, Highland Park (tel: (847) 266 5100; www.ravinia.org).

Chicago's notable opera companies are the Lyric Opera of Chicago, 20 North Wacker Drive (tel: (312) 332 2244; www.lyricopera.org) and the Chicago Opera Theater, 205 East Randolph (tel: (312) 704 8414; www.chicagooperatheater.org), which always performs in English.

Theatre: The theatre scene pulsates with everything from regional ensembles to elaborate productions. Productions can vary from classical to avant-garde. The Loop's revived theatre district, which includes the Cadillac Palace, 151 West Randolph (tel: (312) 977 1700; www.broadwayinchicago.com),  the Oriental, 24 West Randolph, (tel: (312) 977 1700; www.broadwayinchicago.com) and the LaSalle Bank Theatre (formerly the Schubert) at 18 West Monroe Street (tel: (312) 902 1400; www.broadwayinchicago.com),  host booming Broadway productions, while the Goodman Theatre, 170 North Dearborn (tel: (312) 443 3800; www.goodman-theatre.org) and the Steppenwolf, 1650 North Halsted, (tel: (312) 335 1650; www.steppenwolf.org) are renowned for their workings of the classics and contemporary productions. A creative approach to the bard's works is the focus of the Chicago Shakespeare Theater at Navy Pier (tel: (312) 595 5600;  www.chicagoshakes.com).

Besides the Loop, a multitude of theatres are scattered throughout the city, though many are located on the North Side around Halsted and Lincoln. In 1934, gangster John Dillinger was shot by the FBI in front of the Biograph Theatre, 2433 North Lincoln Avenue. It is now home to the Victory Gardens Theater, an intimate 229-seat venue. The League of Chicago Theatres (tel: (312) 554 9800; www.chicagoplays.com) has a complete listing of current programmes.

Dance: The city has several talented companies that perform regularly. Its top ballet company is the Joffrey Ballet Company of Chicago (tel: (312) 739 0120; www.joffrey.com). A daring mix of jazz with classical ballet and contemporary techniques is a speciality of the Hubbard Street Dance Chicago (tel: (312) 850 9744 or 1 866 535 4732; www.hubbardstreetdance.com). Pure jazz is performed by Gus Giordano Jazz Dance of Chicago (tel: (847) 866 6779; www.giordanojazzdance.com/), founded in 1962 and based in the Evanston suburb. Ethnic dance troupes are an example of the city's diversity. For dances from the Emerald Isle, there is Trinity Academy of Irish Dance (tel: (773) 774 5961 or 1 877 326 2328; www.trinity-dancers.com), while Muntu Dance Theatre of Chicago (tel: (773) 602 1135; www.muntu.com) teaches and performs traditional African rhythms and African-American style.

Film: Many of the mainstream cinemas, such as the AMC Loew's Cinema, 600 North Michigan Avenue (tel: (312) 255 9340; www.amctheatres.com), have several screens. Cheap, cheerful and sometimes rowdy typifies the Brew and View at the Vic cinema, 3145 North Sheffield Avenue (tel: (773) 929 6713; www.brewview.com), which screens late-night films, cult numbers and new releases. For a rich mix of the old and the new, there is the Music Box Theatre, 3733 North Southport Avenue (tel: (773) 871 6604; www.musicboxtheatre.com), a 1920s movie palace, which features independent films, foreign films, classics and silent films accompanied by a live organ. The Gene Siskel Film Center, 164 North State (tel: (312) 846 2600; www.siskelfilmcenter.org) specialises in unusual films, classics and film festivals. Moviefone (tel: (312) 444 3456; www.moviefone.com) is the principal source of information and also sells tickets to some cinemas (‘movie theatres').

Of the many films set or filmed in Chicago, some of the most famous are TheSting (1973), starring Paul Newman and Robert Redford; the classic John Belushi film, TheBluesBrothers (1980); the Oscar-winning OrdinaryPeople (1980); RiskyBusiness (1983), the film that launched Tom Cruise; the cult comedy classic Ferris Bueller's Day Off (1986); the John Candy, Steve Martin film, Planes, TrainsandAutomobiles (1987); HomeAlone and BackDraft (1990), HoopDreams, a documentary about inner-city kids becoming basketball stars (1994); the Bill Murray movie, GroundhogDay (1993), the 1930s gangster dramas, TheUntouchables (1987), HighFidelity and ReturntoMe (1999), TheRoadtoPerdition (2002) with Tom Hanks and Paul Newman, Barbershop (2002), Barbershop2 (2003) and AmityvilleHorror (2004). Proof (2005), starring Gwyneth Paltrow and Anthony Hopkins, the story of a devoted daughter coming to terms with the death of her father, a brilliant mathematician crippled by insanity. TheBreak Up (2006) with Jennifer Anniston, and Beau Jeste (2007), the hilarious story of young woman who falls in love with a man who is unacceptable to her parents, were also shot in Chicago. The 2002 production of the musical Chicago, starring Renée Zellweger and Richard Gere, was actually filmed in Toronto. Scenes from the late Heath Ledger's last film, Dark Knight (2008) were also filmed here. 

Literary Notes: The poet Carl Sandburg (1878-1967) was part of the heady Chicago Renaissance in the first two decades of the 1900s. In his poem, Chicago (1916), he coined the phrase ‘City of the Big Shoulders'. Upton Sinclair (1878-1968) wrote about the horrors of the meatpacking world of Union Stockyards and the Jewish-Lithuanian ghetto in TheJungle (1903). The book was the catalyst for the changing of food laws in America.

Chicago's most famous writers are probably Ernest Hemingway (1899-1961), born in the Oak Park suburb (see Excursions), and Saul Bellow (1915-2005), who was born in Quebec but raised in Chicago. Bellow portrayed the post-modern city in many guises, including Pulitzer-Prize-winning Humboldt'sGift (1975) and TheDean'sDecember (1982).

The dangerous, frenzied and unscrupulous underside of the Board of Trade was the subject of ThePit (1903), by Frank Norris (1870-1902). James T Farrell (1904-1979) was born in Chicago. His best-known work is the trilogy, StudsLonigan (1932-1935), depicting the ethnic turmoil of the South Side slums. The clash of races in the slums was also the subject of Richard Wright's (1908-1960) NativeSon (1940). Detroit-born Nelson Algren (1909-1981), as part of the Chicago school of realism, continued the unadorned style associated with the city's portrayal in several of his novels, including TheManwiththeGoldenArm (1949), a novel about drug addiction, often regarded as his best work. Defending the Damned (2007) by Kevin Davis is about the murder task force of Chicago's public defender's office.

Theatre has also made its mark in this city, particularly with AmericanBuffalo (1976), by David Mamet (b 1947), the Chicago-born playwright and film director. With Chicago's gangster tradition, it is fitting that he also wrote the screenplay for TheUntouchables (1987). It is also appropriate that two writers have based their detective novels in the city. Sara Paretsky's ‘VI Warshawski' stories and Andrew Greeley's ‘Monsignor Ryan' tales feature Chicago as a major location or, one could even say, character.

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