The Place for Government Per Diem Rate Hotels

City Overview

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Baltimore is Maryland's largest city, although it's not the state capital. Perched on the River Patapsco, at the top of the northwestern fork of the Chesapeake Bay, it gives direct access to the Atlantic Ocean.

In the early days of European settlement, Baltimore was the westernmost ocean-going harbour. The Inner Harbor area is representative of the city's forward-looking attitude. Baltimore clippers (fast two-mast schooners) were once built there; now the harbour successfully combines business, shopping, hotels, restaurants and visitor attractions.

The West Side's redevelopment includes the city centre and thriving Lexington Market. Established in 1782, the market still houses over 150 merchants. The once shabby historic districts of Fells-Point, Federal Hill and Harbor East have been revamped as bustling communities housing commuters. Mount Vernon and Little Italy also boast a village atmosphere.

Baltimore's vitality is also evident on the campuses of the University of Maryland (near Downtown) and Johns Hopkins University (to the north). Johns Hopkins rose from being a humble greengrocer to a wealthy philanthropist in the 19th century, embodying Baltimore's work ethic and the American dream.

Residents are not only proud of its heritage but also confident of the future, preferring to shape the inevitable changes rather than be subject to them. Nonetheless, one thing has never changed - it is considered almost a crime for one to leave the city without tasting Baltimore's speciality, Maryland crabs.

Getting Around

Airport

Baltimore/Washington International Airport (BWI)
Tel: (410) 859 7111 or 1 800 435 9294.
Website: www.bwiairport.com
Baltimore/Washington International is located 16km (10 miles) south of Baltimore, off Route 295, 48km (30 miles) northeast of Washington, DC.

Approximate flight times to Baltimore: From London, is 8 hours 30 minutes; from New York is 1 hour 15 minutes; from Los Angeles is 5 hours; from Toronto is 1 hour 35 minutes; from Chicago is 1 hour 50 minutes and from Sydney is 21 hours.

Airport facilities: A wide range of restaurants, bars, shopping and duty-free, as well as business and postal services, ATMs and bureaux de change. TDD phones and visual paging for the hearing impaired as well as wheelchair service. Wi-Fi is available throughout. Car hire is available from Alamo, Avis, Budget, Dollar, Hertz, National, Enterprise and Thrifty.

Transport to the city: By road, the trip Downtown takes about 20 minutes; half this to Baltimore's Penn station. The BWI Super Shuttle can be ordered on your arrival (tel: 1 800 258 3826, website: www.supershuttle.com), as can The Airport Shuttle (tel: (410) 381 2772 or 1 800 776 0323; website: www.theairportshuttle.com). The Bay Runner Shuttle (tel: (410) 912 6000; website: www.bayrunners.com) transports passengers to Easton and Salisbury. Some hotels have their own complimentary shuttle service. Alternatively, an airport taxi Downtown costs about US$32.

The regional Maryland Area Rail Commuter (MARC) train (tel: 1 866 743 3682; website: www.mtamaryland.com) and national Amtrak (tel: 1 800 872 7245; website: www.amtrak.com) can take you from the airport to Penn station in 30 minutes.

Trains

Penn Station, 1515 North Charles Street (tel: (410) 291 4165/9), is located about 3.2km (2 miles) from the inner harbour. It is served well by MARC and AMTRAK and has restaurants, ATMs, a postal vending machine, waiting room, phones, baggage checking, porter service, full disabled access and car hire. There is no integrated national enquiries hotline, so contact your service provider or relevant station.

Rail Services
Baltimore is situated along the north-eastern Amtrak corridor from Washington, DC to Boston via Philadelphia and New York. Journey times are as follows: Washington (40 minutes), New York (2 hours 30 minutes), Boston (7 hours), Orlando (20hours) and Miami (24 hours) in Florida, New Orleans (38 hours) in Louisiana and Raleigh (7 hours) in North Carolina. Change in Washington for local trains to West Virginia.

By Road

The road network in America is very good. The general rule for numbering on US freeways and interstates is that the odd numbers go north-south and even numbers go east-west for the entire length, although at any single, localised point this may seem different. Interstate roads are designated by the letter 'I' and a corresponding number.

Driving is on the right. Speed limits on motorways can vary. The general maximum is 90kph (55mph), occasionally rising to 105kph (65mph). Speed limits in residential areas can be as slow as 30kph (20mph), with specifically posted limits near schools. It is illegal to pass a yellow school bus when it is stationary with its lights flashing. Seat belts are obligatory for front-seat passengers. Prosecution for drink-driving is severe - the maximum legal alcohol to blood ratio is 0.08%.

The legal driving age in Baltimore is 16 years. A British driving licence is valid, although a temporary International Driving Permit is also a good idea. Third party insurance is mandatory, although it is highly recommended for driving visitors to ensure that they have adequate travel medical insurance, as medical treatment in the USA is costly.
Many gas stations situated on main roads are open 24 hours a day and operate a pre-pay system at the pumps using a credit card - otherwise, drivers should make themselves known to the cashier.

The American Automobile Association (AAA) (tel: 1 800 763 9900; website: www.aaamidatlantic.com) provides emergency service and information in addition to reciprocal benefits to members of automobile clubs in other countries.

Emergency breakdown services
AAA (tel: 1 800 222 4357/AAA HELP).

Routes to the city
All the major routes approaching Baltimore meet the I-695, called the Baltimore Beltway, which circles the city. The Jones Falls Expressway (the I-83) winds into the central Inner Harbor district, from the north. The I-395 comes in from the southeast, with good access to Downtown Baltimore and the Port. The Baltimore National Pike road (US Route 40) approaches from the west, from Frederick. The I-95 comes from Philadelphia and New York in the northwest and continues southwest towards Washington, DC, running parallel to the Baltimore-Washington Parkway. The I-97 leads in from the south, linking Baltimore to Annapolis. The I-895, the Baltimore Harbor Tunnel Thruway, bypasses Downtown.

Tolls operate at the Baltimore Harbor Tunnel (I-895), at the Fort McHenry Tunnel (I-95) and both north- and southbound at the Francis Scott Key Bridge (part of the Baltimore Beltway). There are also tolls northbound on the John F Kennedy Memorial Highway (part of I-95).

Coach services
Greyhound (tel: 1 800 231 2222; website: www.greyhound.com) operates frequent coach services, connecting Baltimore with all major US and Canadian cities. The main bus station, Downtown Baltimore Terminal is at 2100 Haines St (tel: (410) 752 7682). The Baltimore Travel Plaza, Best Western Hotel, 5625 O'Donnell Street (tel: (410) 633 6389) is less busy. Both are open 24 hours a day.

Local Transport

Public Transport

Maryland Mass Transit Administration (MTA) (tel: (410) 539 5000; website: www.mtamaryland.com), operates a Light Rail system, a Metro Subway, buses and the MARC(Maryland Area Rail Commuter) between Baltimore and Washington, DC. Day Passes are available, giving unlimited local bus, Light Rail and Metro Subway access. Those 65 years and older can ride for about a third of the cost on the local bus, Light Rail and Metro Subway, and approximately half fare on the MARC Train service.

The Light Rail connects the centre to the northern and southern suburbs and offers service to BWI Marshall Airport and Amtrak's Baltimore Penn Station. It operates at street level, crossing several bodies of water by bridge. It stops at the plush Mount Vernon district, Lexington Market area and the cultural area around Cathedral Street and Oriole Park. Buy your ticket from a vending machine before boarding.

The 14 station Metro Subway runs from the Owings Mills corporate and shopping complex through the heart of Downtown Baltimore's business, shopping and sightseeing districts to world-renowned Johns Hopkins Hospital. The metro is clean and fast, if limited. Alight at Lexington Market or Charles Center to walk to the Inner Harbor area. Buy a ticket from a vending machine before boarding.

Buses run frequently, providing an easy means of seeing the city. Pay exact fare as you board.

Taxis

Taxis can be hailed on the street, boarded from ranks and booked by phone. Grab a Yellow Cab (tel: (410) 752 1096) or Atwater Cab (tel: (410) 682 2100), both of which use meters. Tips of 15% are generally expected.

Use Ed Kane's Water Taxis to see the whole Inner Harbor area (tel: (410) 563 3901 or 1 800 658 8947; website: www.thewatertaxi.com). It's rather like a bus service, serving 17 landing points, and is great fun. From April to the end of September, the water taxis go out to Fort McHenry National Monument. Normal service runs 1100-1800 in winter and 1000-2000 in the busier months. Buy a well-priced all day unlimited pass. Private hourly hire can be arranged for groups.

Driving in the City

Don't drive in the Downtown area if you can avoid it; the one-way system is tricky and parking is both expensive and difficult. Metered street parking requires plenty of 'quarters' (25 cents); time per quarter decreases as you get closer to the centre. Some locations limit stay to an hour - others give up to four hours; less central spots can be used for up to 10 hours. To save hassle, save your car for out-of-the-way and out-of-town attractions.

At traffic lights, unless otherwise specified, a right turn on red is permitted after making a complete stop. At crossroads with no lights, the car to the right has the 'right of way'. At a junction, a flashing amber light means 'be prepared to stop'. A flashing red means 'stop' and proceed on a first-come, first-go basis. Cars must stop for all pedestrians crossing the street.

Car Hire

Foreign driving licences are valid as long as they are in English. If your own insurance policy doesn't cover driving abroad, make sure you take out optional CDW (Collision Damage Waiver). Minimum driving ages range from 21 to 25 depending on the company.

Most of the major companies are available: Alamo (tel: (410) 859 8092 airport or 1 800 462 5266; website: www.alamo.com); Avis (tel: (410) 859 1680 airport or 1 800 577 1521; website: www.avis.com); Budget (tel: (410) 691 2913 airport or 1 800 314 7934; website: www.budget.com); Dollar (tel: (866) 434 2226 airport or 1 800 800 3665; website: www.dollar.com); Hertz (tel: (410) 684 7900 airport or 1 800 654 3131; website: www.hertz.com); National (tel: (410) 859 8092 airport or 1 800 227 7368; website: www.nationalcar.com); and Thrifty (tel: (410) 283 0898 airport or (410) 783 0302 downtown or 1 800 847 4389; website: www.thrifty.com).

Bicycle Hire

Cyclists will enjoy the Gwynns Falls Trail - a unique urban biking (and hiking) route. Light Street Cycles, 1015 Light Street (tel: (410) 685 2234; website: www.lightstcycles.com) hires out bicycles and organises guided group rides, but is closed on Sunday.

General Information

Location

Maryland (MD), mid-Atlantic coast, USA.

Time zone

GMT - 5 (GMT - 4 from the second Sunday in March to the first Sunday in November).

Electricity

110 volts AC, 50Hz; flat two-pin plugs are standard.

Average January temperatures

0ºC (32ºF).

Average July temperatures

25ºC (77ºF).

Annual rainfall

1,112mm (44 inches).

Things to do

Sightseeing Overview

Much of Baltimore's sightseeing centres on the revitalised harbourfront and nearby districts of Federal Hill, Mount Vernon, Little Italy and Fells Point. The harbour is still very much a working port, which adds to its appeal. Viewing by water taxi is the best introduction. This not only gives a sense of how the city fits together but also provides a fantastic view of the seafront skyline from the traditional point of entry, the Patapsko River. This view is especially breathtaking at dusk, when the city is illuminated.

Transport (water, rail and road) has played a key role in the city's prosperity and its geographical location made it popular with immigrants. The city's museums explore immigration, war, science and the development of farming in the area.

There is a healthy respect for and interest in nature, with extensive hiking and biking trails in and around the city. On Druid Hill, to the north of the city, is Maryland Zoo: ride a camel or feed the giraffes.

A useful landmark across the square in Mount Vernon is the Washington Monument, a massive obelisk with far-reaching views from its pinnacle. On the harbour front itself, there are amazing 360 degree views from the Top of the World Observation Level, situated on the 27th floor of the World Trade Centre, the world's tallest pentagonal building.

Tourist Information

Baltimore Area Convention & Visitors Association
100 Light Street, 12th Floor
Tel: (410) 659 7300.
Website: www.baltimore.orgOpening hours: Daily 0900-1800.

Passes

The Harbor Pass provides admission to the National Aquarium, Maryland Science Center, the Top of the World Observation Level and Port Discovery (a fabulous children's entertainment centre) as well as a one day ticket for Ed Kane's Water Taxi. It also includes discounts on hotels, dining, shopping and various other attractions.

Learn about Baltimore's social history with the Heritage Pass. It includes admission to the Baltimore Maritime Museum, the Carroll Mansion, the Star Spangled Banner Flag House Museum, the Reginald F Lewis Museum of Maryland African American History and Culture, the Jewish Museum of Maryland, the USS Constellation Museum and the Top of the World Observation Level.

All passes are available at the visitors' centre.

Attractions

Geppi's Entertainment Museum
Take a trip through 250 years of American pop culture and relive your childhood. Geppi's is home to old friends like Superman, Mickey Mouse and G.I. Joe. It's a shrine to toys, games, TV shows and comics that have shaped the America we know today. Star Trek and Star Wars fans will be delighted. There's even an original Ben Franklin cartoon, dating back to the late 18th century. Rooms are organised by era. Special exhibitions for 2009 include a Barbie extravaganza and a tribute to The Wizard of Oz.
301 West Camden Street
Tel: (410) 625 7060.
Website: www.geppismuseum.com
Admission charge.

The Harborplace and Gallery
This shopper's delight is enclosed within two waterfront pavilions and boasts a beautiful four-floored glass atrium. From here, board a clipper, paddle steamer, schooner or oyster boat - or hop on a water taxi. The waterfront path leads to the World Trade Centre, the National Aquarium and the Maritime Museum.
Inner Harbour, 200 East Pratt Street
Tel: (410) 332 4191.
Website: www.harborplace.com
Free admission.

National Katyn Memorial
This impressive sculpture by Andrew Pitynski is dedicated to all mistreated prisoners of war - the Polish officers murdered by the Soviets in 1940 in Katyn Forest being an extreme example.
131 S. Potomac Street (Inner Harbour East)
Tel: (410) 960 6890.
Website: www.KatynBaltimore.com
Free admission.

Lexington Market
This true focal point of the community is a wonderful place for people-watching. Established in 1782, it quickly became the first farmers' market in the USA and continues to thrive today, with a hubbub of dazzling sights and smells. Chocoholics shouldn't miss the October Chocolate Festival; another highlight in the market's busy calendar is the Preakness Crab Derby in May. Local celebrities ‘jockey' blue crabs to the finish line. Don't leave the market without sampling a Faidley crab cake.
400 West Lexington Street
Tel: (410) 685 6169.
Website: www.lexingtonmarket.com
Free admission.

Port Discovery, the Kid-Powered Museum
Created by Walt Disney Imagineering, this unique museum is both fun and educational for the whole family. Those with energy to burn will love 'Kidworks', a three-storey tree house built for climbing, crawling and swinging. The 'Sensation Station' is the equivalent for those aged four and under. Its 'Adventure Expeditions' offers a spooky recreation of ancient Egypt, where youngsters can search for a lost Pharaoh's tomb. It's suitable for older children, as is the R & D Dreamlab - which encourages their inner engineer to get creative. Play detective at 'Miss Perception's Mystery House', where every room is filled with clues as to the whereabouts of the Baffeld Family.
35 Market Place
Tel: (410) 727 8120.
Website: www.portdiscovery.org
Admission charge.

Frederick Douglass-Isaac Myers Maritime Park
This 'living museum' presents the maritime history of Baltimore's 19th-century African-American community and honours two African American leaders. Douglass was a former slave who, after buying his freedom, became a renowned anti-slavery activist while Myers was born free and started the first African-American shipyard. Educational programs are offered on the first floor.
1417 Thames Street, Fells Point
Tel: (410) 685 0295.
Website: www.douglassmyers.org
Admission charge.

Reginald F Lewis Museum of Maryland African American History & Culture
The museum chronicles slaves' ironwork, sail making, tobacco and caulking skills and goes on to look at sporting and entertainment achievements in modern times. The museum takes its name from Maryland-born and Harvard-educated lawyer Reginald F Lewis, who went on to become one of the country's most successful entrepreneurs.
830 East Pratt Street
Tel: (443) 263 1800.
Website: www.africanamericanculture.org
Admission charge.

The Walters Art Museum
Spanning 55 centuries of art, the Walters houses everything from Greek, Roman, Islamic and Egyptian artefacts to European Renaissance art and medieval armour. Exhibits change regularly, encompassing such wonders as 5,000 years of jewellery and Japanese autumnal paintings. The sculpture court is designed as a wonderful copy of an Italian Genoan palace and the main entrance features a dramatic hanging staircase within a soaring glass atrium.
600 North Charles Street
Tel: (410) 547 9000.
Website: www.thewalters.org
Free admission.

Restaurants

Gastronomic

Aldo's Ristorante Italiano
Chef owner Aldo Vitale is a master of southern Italian cuisine as well as being a skilled carpenter. He crafted the restaurant's intricate woodwork, including the beautiful mahogany bar. This elegant, romantic décor is the perfect foil to his menu of seasonal ingredients, such as Italian white truffles from Alba. His home-cured pancetta and soppressata, pickled vegetables and hand-picked herbs lend a personal touch. Diners are welcome to tour the wine cellar and the cheese cave.

306 South High Street
Tel: (410) 727 0700.
Website: www.aldositaly.com
Price: $$$

Brightons
Sun-filled by day and offering spectacular views of the Inner Harbor by night, this smart venue is certainly memorable. Local favourites, such as crab cakes and rockfish, are always on the menu. Afternoon tea is a special treat - served on Friday and Saturday afternoons: cucumber and stilton mousse sandwiches and warm scones, jam and Devonshire cream. Expect impeccable service from the moment you enter.

Harbor Court Hotel, 550 Light Street
Tel: (410) 234 0550.
Website: www.harborcourt.com
Price: $$$$ 

Pisces
Having undergone a complete revamp, the panoramic rooftop view of the Inner Harbor is now matched by a decadent menu including cognac-brushed shrimp served with candied shallots and Tuna Tartar accompanied by a ginger sabayon. Champagne brunch is served each Sunday from 1000 to 1400. Reservations are essential - but you can always drop into the lounge for a cocktail while you wait.

Hyatt Regency Baltimore, 300 Light Street
Tel: (410) 528 1234.
Website: www.hyatt.com
Price: $$$-$$$$

Trendy

Pazo
This old warehouse pulls off cosy and sophisticated, with soaring ceilings, an open kitchen, plush booths in the downstairs bar lounge, wrought-iron chandeliers and a mezzanine dining level. Its Mediterranean menu features mouth-watering tapas as well as main courses of grilled seafood, spit-roasted game and aged ribeyes. Regional cheeses and homemade breads set off the innovative menu. The wine list and grappa collection are impressive. Late in the evening, it becomes a nightclub.

1425 Aliceanna Street
Tel: (410) 534 7296.
Website: www.pazorestaurant.com
Price: $$$

Sotto Sopra
In the Mount Vernon Cultural District, this contemporary Italian boasts traditional high ceilings, large mirrors and elegant tableware set off by bold murals. Find heaven in the lobster and pea ravioli with fennel and Galliano cream sauce but make sure you leave room for dessert. Look out for evenings of special themed menus and live entertainment.

405 North Charles Street
Tel: (410) 625 0534.
Website: www.sottosoprainc.com
Price: $$$ 

Tapas Teatro Café
Enduringly popular, this charming bistro is located in the revamped Charles Theatre, making it the perfect pre-show venue. There's certainly a buzz about the place. Arrive with an appetite for the paella, accompanied by a pitcher of sangria. Alternatively, sample a little of everything from the tantalising menu. The rule of the house is 'small plates, big pleasures'.

1711 Charles Street
Tel: (410) 332 0110.
Website: www.tapasteatro.com
Price: $$-$$$

Budget

Faidley's
Established in 1886, this family business leads the way when it comes to lump crab cakes. Faidley's Crab Festivals are run countrywide - and internationally - to promote tourism and business development. They were even commissioned to develop crab cake for the crew of the United States Space Shuttle and Faidley's marketplace featured in Sleepless in Seattle. Located inside Lexington Market, be ready to queue, then stand at tall tables to savour these delicacies. No alcohol. Open Monday to Saturday 0900-1700.

203 North Paca Street
Tel: (410) 727 4898.
Website: www.faidleyscrabcakes.com
Price: $

Jack's Bistro
Simple yet stylish décor in earth tones and truly good food. The chef prides himself on producing appealing, inventive dishes: Guinness Braised Bistro Steak, with asparagus and mashed potatoes, duck breast and confit with roasted barley risotto or spice crusted pork loin with a mélange of brussel sprouts, corn and bacon. Open Wednesday to Sunday.

3123 Elliot Street
Tel: (410) 878 6542.
Website: www.jacksbistro.net
Pice: $-$$

Samos
A well-run Greek taverna, sporting Hellenistic murals and a collection of Mediterranean pottery. Knock yourself out with hearty roast lamb or opt for seafood 'Santorini' - sautéed shrimp, scallops and kalamari in a lemon-wine sauce. Fabulous baklava, rice pudding and galktoboureko (custard wrapped in filo and baked golden). No reservations or credit cards and closed Sundays. Bring your own alcohol (US$2 charge per adult).

600 Oldham Street
Tel: (410) 675 5292.
Website: www.samosrestaurant.com
Price: $

Personal Recommendations

Blue Sea Grill
This oceanic themed restaurant is painted in hues of blue, with sailboat paintings adorning the walls. Friendly service and fresh seafood rule, with a good choice of oysters, mussels and clams, daily fresh fish mains and the usual meat-eaters plates. The starters alone are sight-to-behold; try tempura shrimp with mango sauce, herb-crusted scallops and king crab guacamole. Happy hour at the raw bar on weekdays 1600 to 1900.

614 Water Street
Tel: (410) 837 7300.
Website: www.blueseagrill.com
Price: $$$

Night Life

Nightlife abounds at the Inner Harbor, Little Italy, Fells Point, Canton, Federal Hill and Mount Vernon. Baltimore is a lively town, with every genre of music represented, from jazz and blues to rock and reggae, plus sports bars and gay clubs. If you can't decide, head for Power Plant Live! (at the intersection of Market Place and Water Street) - an entertainment complex housing a variety of bars, restaurants and clubs.

Dress code and admission are specific to the venue but a photo ID (identification) is necessary, as minimum drinking age is 21 years. Most bars and nightclubs are open 1100 to 0200.

Publications providing nightlife listings and information include the daily Baltimore Sun (website: www.baltimoresun.com/entertainment), the free Baltimore Alternative, serving the gay community, and the monthly guide distributed through hotels, Baltimore Ambassador.

Bars: If you like hangouts with character, head to Fells Point. This historic neighbourhood's charming old buildings have been restored, and many are now home to cosy pubs and classy cocktail bars. The Cat's Eye Pub, 1730 Thames Street, is Irish themed, serving an impressive selection of single malt whiskies and draught beers on tap. Live rock, blues and jazz some nights. Max's on Broadway, 737 South Broadway, serves 92 rotating draught beers and has 17 satellite receivers to view American sports.

The Explorer's Lounge, (Harbor Court Hotel, Inner Harbor) has interesting décor: animal-print murals and furnishings. The upmarket Havana Club, above Ruth's Chris Steak House, 600 Water Street, is the place for a stylish smoke. For a stellar selection of micro-brews and a fantastic harbour view, try the Capitol City Brewing Company, 301 Light Street. The atmosphere is lively, with a diverse crowd. Similarly, the DuClaw Brewing Company, 901 South Bond Street, offers a great range of speciality beers and ales. Billed as Baltimore's hottest beach bar, the Bay Café, 2809 Boston Street, prides itself on running a bikini contest through the summer; think Frat house antics and you won't be far wrong.

Clubs: Baltimore has toe-tapping variety. For Latin rhythms, hit the Latin Palace, 509 South Broadway (website: www.latinpalace.com); salsa lessons available. If disco, is more your thing, try retro Have a Nice Day Café, 2 Market Place, with its lit dancefloor and mirror balls. Visitors staying downtown or in the Inner Harbor need not look hard for a good party. Swanky Sonar, 407 East Saratoga Street (website: www.sonarlounge.com) holds 1000 party-goers on its main floor and has a chill-out lounge, bar and smaller club area. High-energy Paradox, 1310 Russell Street (website: www.thedox.com) caters to the trendy, housed in a former warehouse and boasts a colossal dancefloor and a nine-screen video wall.  

One, 300 East Saratoga Street (website: www.onebaltimore.com), attracts chic young professionals with its minimalist décor. The floors are themed on earth, wind, fire and water. Mount Vernon's Club Phoenix, 1 West Biddle Street (website: www.baltimore-phoenix.net) is an intimate gay club. The bar offers cheap, creative concoctions. Its theme nights include karaoke, ladies' night and a Sunday tea dance. Nearby, savour Asian tapas, sip exotic cocktails and dance at Red Maple, 930 North Charles Street (website: www.930redmaple.com). Vigorous rhythms set the tone at ultra-trendy, neon lit Club Mate, 3612 Hanover Street (website: http://mateclublounge.com), with its five bars, specialising in exotic cocktails, and a terrace.

Live Music: Downtown, the Ram's Head Tavern, 20 Market Place (website: www.ramsheadtavern.com) is a major venue, accommodating up to 1,600. Great seafood and several sleek bars. Eight by Ten, 10 East Cross Street (website: www.the8x10.com) hosts up-and-coming local talent. Beer and cocktails are discounted early in the evening.

Ottobar, 2549 North Howard Street (website: www.theottobar.com) features bands that range from indie rock to hip hop and folk. The New Haven Lounge, 1552 Havenwood Road, is the top choice for live jazz, with swing and big bands sometimes invited. Harbor Cruises, docked near Harborplace, Inner Harbor, offers the chance to dine and dance on water, while viewing the impressive, illuminated Baltimore skyline as you twirl.

Shopping

Shopping in Baltimore really brings to life the neighbourhood feel of the city. The most brazenly commercial and modern spot is the Inner Harbor, with its Gallery and Harborplace malls, full of the latest designer and brand-name shops. Many of the districts surrounding the harbour area have their own specialities. Mount Vernon's renowned Antique Row, 700-800 North Howard Street, and 200-300 West Read Street, has 40 antique shops and 70 dealers.

Markets
A little to the east, on Charles Street, you'll find individual shops, cafes and restaurants. Fells Point's Broadway Market, with its stalls and shops, is the oldest existing building in the city (1785). Nearby are curio shops, galleries and bakeries. Little Italy has a slightly more upmarket feel.

The oldest market is Lexington, just west of Mount Vernon (see Further Distractions). Others include Cross Street Market (corner of Charles Street and Cross Street), Hollins Market (corner of Hollins Street and Arlington Street), Avenue Market - formerly Lafayette (corner of Pennsylvania Street and Laurens Street) and the new Northeast Market (corner of East Monument Street and Chester Street). Each has its own local colour and flavour. Most are open Monday to Saturday 0700-1800 (Cross Street is open until 1900 and Lexington opens at 0830). Hollins is also closed on Monday. Baltimore Public Markets (tel: (410) 685 6169; website: www.bpmarkets.com) provides further information.

The Downtown Farmers' Market, Saratoga Street between Holliday and Gay Streets, is open Sunday 0800-1200 (early May to late December). Baltimore has several rare and used book stores; the first block of West 25th Street, close to the Johns Hopkins University campus and the Baltimore Museum of Art is known as 'Book Row'. Visit Kelmscott Bookshop (at 32-34), Royal Books (32), Tiber Books (24), and Johanson Rare Books (34).

The Village of Cross Keys, 5100 Falls Road, (a shopping complex about 10km (6 miles) from Downtown) is a sure fire winner for shoppers. Its open air setting is charming. It's best known for its locally owned, one of a kind boutiques but also features national retailers such as Ann Taylor and Chico's. Open Monday to Saturday 1000-1800 (until 2000 on Thursday) and Sunday 1200-1600.

On the Inner Harbor, visit the beautifully designed Harborplace and Gallery, 200 East Pratt Street, home to high street shops and good resturants. Open Monday-Saturday 1000-2100 and Sunday 1100-1900 (See Further Distractions). It also hosts free concerts.

For the perfect souvenir, get hold of some Old Bay spice (a local seasoning for crab cakes) or splash out on some Orioles baseball kit from the stadium shop.

Tax information
Visiting shoppers should always retain receipts, as customs may ask to see that the 5% VAT has already been paid locally. Individual shops can provide tax and duty-free forms, allowing tax back on items upon departure from the USA.

Events

Baltimore's St Patrick's Day Parade
March
Check website for parade route
Website: www.irishparade.net

Preakness Celebrations
May
The city's famous Preakness Derby is held at Pimlico Race Course. Meanwhile, parades, concerts and high-jinx (the Crab Derby at Lexington Market) take place city-wide. Balloon rides organised as part of the fun.
Website: www.pimlico.com

Balticon
May
The Maryland Regional Science Fiction Convention celebrates all that is weird and wonderful in the world of Sci-Fi.
Check website for location
Website: www.balticon.org

Latino Fest
June
Celebrating Latino music, dance and cuisine in a warm and friendly atmosphere.
Patterson Park
Website: www.latinofest.org

Harborplace and Gallery Summer Concert Series
May-August
Weekend concerts throughout warm months: everything from rock, reggae and salsa to blues, jazz and swing.
Harborplace Amphitheatre
Website: www.harborplace.com

Artscape Festival
July
Live musical performances in every genre on four outdoor stages. Also, dance, theatre, fashion and film events.
Mount Royal Avenue
Website: www.artscape.org

Maryland State Fair
August-September
Originally just a farmers' market but now includes horse and livestock shows, hundreds of stalls and a massive fun fair.
Maryland State Fairground, Timonium
Website: www.marylandstatefair.com

Annual Chocolate Festival
October
Baltimore's finest chocolatiers fulfil your wildest choccy dreams. Hilarious chocolate eating contests, live music and cooking demonstrations.
Lexington Market
Website: www.lexingtonmarket.com/annual.html

Baltimore's Great Halloween Lantern Parade
October
Ghostly procession that ends with a shadow puppet drama set to eerie, live music, projected on a huge screen.
Patterson Park
Website: www.creativealliance.org

Lighted Boat Parade
December
Multitudes of boats festooned with Christmas decorations and lights, glinting in the dark - tacky but heart-warming; prizes for the glitziest entries.
From Inner Harbor to Fells Point

History & Culture

Baltimore's performing arts have a long and distinguished history. The American national anthem was penned here and the elite of American society helped culture flourish.
Use Ticketmaster (tel: (410) 547 7328; website: www.ticketmaster.com) or Baltimore Tickets at the Visitors Center, 451 Light Street (tel: 1 877 225 84673; website: www.baltimore.org).

Baltimore Ambassador magazine lists cultural performances and events and is often found in hotels. Monthly Baltimore Magazine also lists events and offers dining suggestions. City Search (website: www.baltimore.citysearch.com) provides up-to-date information on cultural events.
Music: The city's main classical music venue is the Meyerhoff Symphony Hall, 1212 Cathedral Street, Mount Vernon, home of the Baltimore Symphony Orchestra (tel: (410) 783 8000; website: www.bsomusic.org).

The Lyric Opera House, 140 West Mount Royal Avenue (tel: (410) 685 5086; website: www.lyricoperahouse.com), boasts a few unusual guests, such as Alanis Morissette and the Moscow Ballet, as well as hosting musicals as well as opera.

The Baltimore Opera Company, 110 W. Mt. Royal Avenue (tel: (410) 727 6000; website: www.baltimoreopera.com), is more traditional in its performances, although sometimes includes musicals.

The Peabody Institute, 1 East Mount Vernon Place (tel: (410) 659 8100; website: www.peabody.jhu.edu), the oldest music school in the USA, often schedules free recitals as well as running workshops for the public.

Theatre: Baltimore's many theatres are cast across the Downtown area. The Strand Theater Company, 1823 North Charles Street (tel: (443) 874 4917; website: www.strandtheatercompany.org) aims to explore innovative drama to inspire the younger generation, with emphasis on the feminine perspective.

Theatre Hopkins performs in a brick barn dating from 1804, located at Johns Hopkins University (tel: (410) 516 7159; website: www.jhu.edu/~theatre). This semi-professional company performs everything from Shakespeare to Shaw and Sophocles.

Centre Stage, 700 North Calvert Street (tel: (410) 332 0033; website: www.centerstage.org), produces a similarly diverse repertoire, keeping ticket prices low to ensure drama is available to all.

The Everyman Theatre, 1727 North Charles Street (tel: (410) 752 2208; website: www.everymantheatre.org) performs classics, such as Chekhov, alongside contemporary premieres. It has plans to move to 315 W. Fayette Street by 2010.

The Vagabond Players, 806 South Broadway, Fells Point (tel: (410) 563 9135; website: www.vagabondplayers.org), tend to perform modern classics, including those by local playwrights.

For dinner-theatre, try Toby's (tel: (410) 649 1660 or 1 866 998 6297: website: www.tobysdinnertheatre.com). It serves adaptations of popular musicals, like Phantom and West Side Story, with its buffet menu.

Family owned Lorenzo's Timonium Dinner Theatre, 9603 Deereco Road (tel: (410) 560 1113 or 1 877 560 1113; website: www.timoniumdinnertheatre.com), offers Broadway-type shows and tasty homemade specialities.

Dance: In addition to occasional dance performances at some of the above venues, there is the Baltimore Dance Center, 1546 Eastern Boulevard (tel: (410) 574 2444; website: www.baltimoredancecenter.com), which offers classes.

The Baltimore Ballet School (tel: (410) 667 7974; website: www.baltimoreballet.com) performs classics at major venues around the city.

Film: The Senator Theatre, 5904 York Road (tel: (410) 435 8338; website: www.senator.com), was built during the golden age of Hollywood and is one of few surviving examples of a real neighbourhood movie theatre. As well as plenty of ordinary cinemas showing the latest Hollywood releases, there are a couple of specialist venues for art house releases.

The Baltimore Museum of Art, 10 Art Museum Drive (tel: (443) 573 1700; website: www.artbma.org), screens independent shorts, with free entrance, while the Enoch Pratt Free Library, 400 Cathedral Street (tel: (410) 396 5430; website: www.pratt.lib.md.us), shows a broader range of material.

Because of its varied topography, Maryland has proved a popular destination for Hollywood film-makers. Two Baltimore-born directors, Barry Levinson and John Waters, have been responsible for putting their hometown on the movie map. Levinson's Baltimore-based films, starting with Diner and later including Tin Men (1987), Avalon (1990) and Liberty Heights (1999), pay tribute to life in 1960s-era Baltimore, when the director himself was growing up in the city. Waters, on the other hand, aims his attention toward the quirky side of life in Baltimore - films such as Hairspray (1988) and Serial Mom (1994) have become cult classics, with the former remade in 2007.

The Sum of All Fears (2002), based on the Clancy novel of the same name, sees Baltimore devastated by a terrorist nuclear bomb. Baltimore is also the setting for Patriot Games (1992), the Pelican Brief (1993) and Twelve Monkeys (1995). A significant portion of Enemy of the State (1998), starring Will Smith, was set and filmed in Baltimore, as was Live Free or Die Hard (2007). Step Up (2006) and its sequel Step Up 2 The Streets (2008) are also set in the city.

Literary Notes: Strongly associated with Baltimore and standing on either side of the fence are two literary giants - writer Edgar Allan Poe (1809-1849) and H L Mencken (1880-1956), critic par excellence. Poe's house, 203 Amity Street, is now a museum. His grave can be found at Westminster Cemetery, (corner of Fayette Street and Greene Street). Mencken, who became famous for his biting literary criticism, lived at 1524 Hollins Street, Union Square. His major work, The American Language (1921), had a huge influence on American writing in the 1920s.

Francis Scott Key (1799-1843) is famous for his poem, The Defence of Fort McHenry, penned while watching the American flag flying during the unsuccessful British siege of Baltimore. In 1931, it was adopted as the US national anthem, The Star Spangled Banner.

Much of the town's literary past centres on the Mount Vernon district, which also hosts the annual Book Festival in September. Meanwhile, F Scott Fitzgerald's wife, Zelda, was treated for mental illness at the Johns Hopkins University. Fitzgerald (1896-1940) finished Tender is the Night (1934) while living in the area.

The master of silly poems and snappy aphorisms, Ogden Nash, was living in Cross Keys when he died in 1971. Pulitzer Prize-winner Upton Sinclair (1878-1968), was born in Baltimore, while Gertrude Stein (1874-1946) studied at Johns Hopkins University. Russell Baker, a New York Times Baltimore columnist, based his Pulitzer Prize-winning autobiography Growing Up (1995) on his boyhood, while several of Anne Tyler's works are set in Baltimore, including The Accidental Tourist (1985). The Corner (1997), by David Simon, gives a gritty view of inner city Baltimore. The author spent a year following local police homicide squads to learn about addiction and violence in the western suburbs of the city.

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